RB25DET into Safari?

[DaveM]

With the problems I've had with the Safari, I'm going to try to look into options, so if anything happens to the motor, or I find it's no good off road, I can make sure I have a backup plan.

The RB25 swap has been done in oz, but I'm after more info on the power/torque of the turbo motor to make sure its suitable.

Would love to do the V8 thing, but the RB uses the same mounts, and gearbox, so pretty straight foward.


Cheers

[meatc]

Sounds like a good plan. Safari came out with the RB30 for a short time and thats essentually the same block with about an extra inch of height in the top for the increased capacity.

If you wanted more litres the RB30 could be a go because you could build one as a DET. Most parts from RB range are interchangable. The exception is the RB26 (godzilla motor) which has slightly different head studs. Can still make the stuff fit though.

It is becoming more common in race circles to use the RB30 block and RD26DETT head and twin turbos for major go.

A built RB30 is capable of over 500hp without to much hassle and over 1000 if you want to get serious.

I have never built one but did a huge amount a reasearch on the compatibility of parts etc for a work matter. The expert i dealt with is building one that is currently at 550hp at all 4 wheels and the fuel lines and pump are now restricting power.

The aftermarket parts for these engines is endless with parts to do anything to the power delivery. There are ones that have been supercharged also.

Build it build it you know you want to

[coxsy]

one of these

[DaveM]

I've also heard of guys running the RD28 block, with the RB25 heads etc, might try to get more info on that. If it works, it would save a lot of time and effort I guess.

Would love to throw the RB26 in just to be different, if only I had the $$$

[meatc]

RB26DETT could be had by importing a pre 1994(?) godzilla. They dont meet frontal impact standards so cant be reg for road use here. Wreck ones can be had for a couple of grand of so ex japan. Keep the engine and flik off the ali gaurds and bonnet etc.

A RDs are a diesel version of the same engine basically.

An old Commodre with and RB30 in it would be cheap. Find a 25DET head/turbos (old skylines are cheap) and your there.

i'll dig some of the info i have out. have a funny feeling there is next to no difference between a 20DET and 25DET head.

[DaveM]

Any info would be great.
Would the internals of either motor be forged?
Heres a pic of the oz conversion anyway

[rangimotors]

talk to comilux on here, he's good at making huge power and reliability out of basic rb's on a budget. from memory it was a non turbo (rb25de) with a turbo conversion. went really well.

[darinz]

Not knocking what you are doing as I think it is agreat idea, but the thing to be careful of is RB mods/conversions getting out of hand cost wise do to the popularity of the motor. Tge good thing is lots of stuff on the shelf which is something I could only dream about!
If I was you I'd be looking for an RB30 and sticking the 25 head on that way you'll get a little more capacity which can only be a good thing. My brother in law is running a drag car with this setup that has 950hp. Admittedly it has massive turbo and runs methanol without an IC and doesn't do anything untill about 4000rpm but it does show the massive potenial of the motor.
The one thing I would really consider is having an auto behind it (manual shift of course). That will allow you to get to peak torque quicker which will make for a much more drivable 4x4. I don't think my truck would be controlable with a manual. It is more about getting rid of the clutch than anything else.
If you keep it fairly tame then 400hp is a pretty easy reliable figure and that is more than most of the V8 conersions guys do. Remember a 5.0 Holden will struggle to get much over 300hp (without major inlet manifold mods) and people rave about them!

[nzhunter]

have a yarn to safari_mulisha he was looking at seriously at putting a rb30det into his safari not very long ago, he started a write up here somewhere as well.

[cool__bananas]

but the other thing you could do is thake the turbo off and put supercharger on because the motor is alrealy set up for forced induction and also the supercharger is better for what we do

[lockie]

DO IT DAVE !!!
Would be waaaaayyy better than buying a pox rally car and trying to keep up with scooter . You want an engine tomorrow? I'll go into town and get a whole car for you

[DaveM]

DO IT DAVE !!!
Would be waaaaayyy better than buying a pox rally car and trying to keep up with scooter . You want an engine tomorrow? I'll go into town and get a whole car for you

I'm going to look for a cheap RB30, and slowly build it up. Got 18mths left on my warranty, so will build it up over that time ready to bolt in I think.
I'll buy the bits as I can afford them, and look at the supercharger option, but it depends on what the fuel prices do!

[gary_in_nz]

hey dave make sure you have a build thread going, as i would love to throw an rb30 in my GQ, what model nissan were you looking to put into??

You also reckon the swap would be straight forward?? if i swapped the motor out and everything bolts up and convert some electrics to power the ecu, then filled the tank with petrol?? is it that easy??

[DaveM]

Its "straight foward" for my GU shorty, as the RD28 and RB25/30 are essentially the same, they bolt to the existing gearbox, and use the same engine mounts, also, since mine runs an ecu, the majority of the wiring is there already.

[lockie]

too easy i'll get the balaclava an i'm headn out to find a donor

[DaveM]

too easy i'll get the balaclava an i'm headn out to find a donor

I'll supply the balclava if you supply an RB26DETT

[Shane]

I'd go the RB30(turbo) and keep the single cam head,have been in a VL with one and it pulled like a train in mid/low rev range,if you put the DOHC head on you well loss some bottom end power/spend extra cash for not much gain IMO(for 4x4ing)the DOHC has good wank factor but thats about if for a 4wd set up...

Shane

[DaveM]

I'd go the RB30(turbo) and keep the single cam head,have been in a VL with one and it pulled like a train in mid/low rev range,if you put the DOHC head on you well loss some bottom end power/spend extra cash for not much gain IMO(for 4x4ing)the DOHC has good wank factor but thats about if for a 4wd set up...

Shane

Sounds interesting, thanks for the info.
What are your thoughts on supercharging as apposed to turbo?

[darinz]

Supercharging vs turbo is an argument that is like tyre selection!
Supercharging is less efficient. ie it takes power from the crank to run the compressor where as a turbo uses waste energy (exhuast gas) to run the compressor. So that SHOULD make the argument very easy. BUT it doesn't!
If my truck was supercharged it would have less power but more power at the bottom end. That would make it far less controlalble. With it's current power curve, it has progressive power delivery. ie the power curve is a straight line, but a very steep line. A supercharged version would have a lot more of the power at a lower rpm and less coming on as the rpm gets higher.
I went with a turbo because of this and any high efficiency motor is going to respond better to turboing than supercharging. Outright HP or torque is not what you are after. It is where and how that power is delivered. That is also why a low boost setup is going to work better as it gives a smoother power curve. For what we do you want torque down low and power up high. The further apart these 2 things are the easier the truck will be to drive. Turbo's bring peak torque lower in the rev range and peak power higher up (as long as they are sized right) If you focus totally on low down torque you will end up sacrificing top end and so reduce your usable rev range. The bigger this range is the less you need to change gears and the easier the truck will be to drive.

The big argument against turbo's is lag and that is about fitting the wrong turbo for the job so is more about people not knowing what they are doing so isn't an argument. The lag that I have ie below about 1800rpm is great as it maintain traction untill the truck is moving.

Also auto or manual combined with turbo or SC also makes a big difference. Turbo's really like auto's as it keeps them spinning and a SC will respond to gear changes better.

It is also harder to intercool a SC and this can be a limiting factor with performance. ie Boost is about more O2 not more pressure so lower boost with cooler air will achieve the same as high boost hot air.

[DaveM]

The main reason I was looking at the RB25 is that they are a current motor, and easy to get parts for, and low mileage.

I've found a few RB30DET's, just getting more info on them.
I'm trying to find out if I will get away with running the current auto or not, and whether it will be easier going non turbo, and getting an after market manifold etc as the RB30e is fairly cheap

[safari_mulisha]

rb30det is way to go man....
mine makes 500hp at wheels and insane about of gear tearing diff smashing torque
start skids in 4th...

http://www.bebo.com/FlashBox.jsp?FlashB ... d=20640986

[DaveM]

rb30det is way to go man....
mine makes 500hp at wheels and insane about of gear tearing diff smashing torque
start skids in 4th...

http://www.bebo.com/FlashBox.jsp?FlashB ... d=20640986

So you are running twin cam, is this the way to go, or single, as Shane has suggested?
Don't know enough myself, but most people have gone for the 25 head

[safari_mulisha]

yeah i run a twin cam head...rb25 or 26 will fit on
its totally loose to drive very smooth power and heaps of torque

i have pics of us fitting one with details and measurements written on them but cant seem to find them on this comp

but you might have to put up with this if you drive like me

[oldngrumpy]

Hello all
I am new to 4wd and have just bought a 97 swb safari running an RB25DET Neo, does this vehicle look familiar to any of you, I would love some history on it.

[Twodiffs]

Look for pigfmr on here...he used to own it, he'll be able to answer most questions you have.

[oldngrumpy]

nice one cheers twodiffs

[zukmeista]

For sale ad for it on here, some additional info.
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=39885

[PigFmr]

Look for pigfmr on here...he used to own it, he'll be able to answer most questions you have.

that's one crazy truck that one a wee to much grunt when i first had it,

I done all shocks and coils panards bushes etc, snorkel, and airbox which is out MU ,35's,manual lock up,front and rear bars,read heavy duty trail arms ,fan on intercooler,dropboxes, this your first 4wd ? just go real steady wiv it its still got heaps of bhp ,

I had it de turned from 480bhp it used to run avgas and 98 when I first got it, 15 to 18 litres per 100 k depends how u drove it,and I drove it from auckland now it runs 95 and dnt put 91 in it u will melt a piston on full boost as its got 2 stage boost , 98 is hard to get only bp sell it, one reason why i had it back on the dyno to run 95,also depends what tyres you run 31's tyres its crazy fast , 33 go well, 35's take a bit power to push hence the manual lock up for trans
its got
rb25 neo
glink ecu,
spiltfire coils,
1000 bhp bosch fuel pump u can hear it buzzing in the back,
760cc injectors,
gtx garret turbo worth big money , prevouis guy paid $2500 for that
greddy intercooler
greddy dump valve
internals have been done aswell stronger rods etc
2 stage boost switch on the dash
gearbox been re built,
motor dne less than 70000 ish k,s dnt knw what trent dne in it
4.66 diffs
rear factory locker
and shit loads more when i can remember,sent you pm with cell number
let me knw if ya wana sell it