bulletproof Fails-help needed

[safari_mulisha]

i run efs extreme shocks up front i will tell you how they go when i take it for a skid next week





waiting to finish the spacers for my chromoly arms so i can set the shock hight to get max flex

[Bulletproof]

i run efs extreme shocks up front i will tell you how they go when i take it for a skid next week





waiting to finish the spacers for my chromoly arms so i can set the shock hight to get max flex

Has anyone had experience with these ?

Richard

[Bulletproof]

I have a another problem.

The left hand wheel seems to lift off the ground more than the right and it appears to me the panhard rod needs a double knuckle to allow it to flex more.

Have any nissan owners done this ?

I was thinking of useing the same bushes that are on the radius rod to make a rotating end . Has anyone experimented with this ?

Cheers Richard

[safari_mulisha]

those shocks i posted are $270 each they are pretty huge
20mm shaft and 45mm piston in them
i have to extend them inside my engine bay they are so long

[darinz]

those shocks i posted are $270 each they are pretty huge
20mm shaft and 45mm piston in them
i have to extend them inside my engine bay they are so long

What are the shocks spec'd for? If Landcruised like most of us use, then 61mm is how much longer than standard GQ shocks (closed length). So if you have a 50mm body lift then there is no need to cut inner guards to make them fit. When you take into account the increase length of the springs when lifted springs are fitted, then the reality is that you only need to lift shock towers by about 50mm. Obviously this also means a change to bumpstops, and it just goes on and on.
Now if your shocks are this long then at full droop your springs will come loose so the only thing stopping them fall out is the bumpstop. If you bolt the springs in you'll need a LVV cert. With LC shocks and 3" lift I can take out my front springs without undoing the shocks!!!!!!!

Darin

[safari_mulisha]

i havnt extended them into the engine bay yet but its looks like the might need to be
i run a 4 inch lift with 2 inch body lift
measured from the same spot the stock shocks are 530 extended and my efs shocks are 735mm
compressed 335 stock and 465 for the efs shock

speced for a lifted cruiser the amount of sag in my springs is quite alot but still think i might have to raise the shock mount to keep them captive

[darinz]

Too late now but it sounds like your shocks are too long for what you really need. Being long they will have more oil so give better fade resistance so it isn't a bad thing but it creates other problems like you are finding. I'm more talking about the balance between increased perforamnce and increased complexity. A fine line.

Have you worked out when you get coil bind? With 4" I think you will find that you are getting that before the bumpstops take over, so you need to fit spacers to you bumpstops. This will mean the position of your shocks can be changed accordingly as well.

I've set mine so that the max up travel is about 15mm short of coil bind (and about 20mm short of the sump!). Too work out coil bind just multiply wire size by number of coils. You then need to allow a bit per coil as coil bind starts before this, so say about 1mm per coil (5%). You need to allow for bumpstop compression.
The last thing you want in a GQ is the front suspension to bottom as this is what bends you diff housing. (take it from someone on there 3rd front and 2nd rear diff housing) I've bend a strengthened front diff with twin shocks and hydraulic bumpstops because these calcs weren't done properly. (and maybe the way I drive????????)
The other thing is GQ bumpstops are pretty crap!

[Shane]

Darin

when measuring shocks were do you take it from??

pin/pin shocks like front on GQ is it from middle of bushes??

What about the ones with eyes???

Cheers if some one knows

Shane

[darinz]

Centre of eye. ie the centre of the mounting point.
I've mounted mine by fitting the shocks without the springs and moving the axle around to get the exact points. It can mean mocking a mounting point up and then modifying if you've gotten it wrong, but if you measure and plan it first then test it you should be pretty safe.
With the shock towers I've just made, I jacked the diff up to the max travel point and then fitted the bumpstops and shocks to that point. The max travel was gained by measuring the springs and working out coil bind.
In my truck (GQ) the shock towers are 60mm higher than factory. So they would fit inside the factory inner guard if I hadn't cut it out to fit the motor in!

The 61mm I have talked about is the difference between OME 'L" series shocks for GQ Nissan and 80 series Cruiser closed length. When you then test in real world as I have, it is acurate.

[Bulletproof]

I think I have resolved some of my problems today.

The anchor point of the panhard rod is 80mm higher than the mounting point on the axle.
As the axle drops 200mm on the left hand side .The Radius of the panhard rod pulls the axle 40mm to the right causing the radius rods to bind up.
Because most of the wheel travel is down, today I have lenghtened the panhard rod so as it sits on the floor the left hand wheel now sticks out 10mm more than the right.
I may have to use wheel spacers to stop the right hand wheel hitting the top suspension mount.

I have also twisted the ends of the panhard rod so they are not stressed when then suspension on the left side has dropped 150mm. Before both were on the same plane as it was sitting on the floor and as it dropped bound up because of the angle of the radius rod.

Hopefully this will help it flex better, only time will tell

Cheers Richard