Have a 92 SWB 3.0 V6 Paj with 40mm body lift. I have started looking around to assess options for a 50mm suspension lift. Does anyone know if doing a suspension lift will have any effect on the factory hydraulic lift, that I would like to retain as well. Any ideas on approx costs? Any pit falls?
Cheers
96 Wrangler Sport. 2"BB, 1.25"BL, Front discos, Adjustable rear trac bar, Cb and yet more to come! "Its a jeep thing"
just lift it as if it didnt have the hydro lift. the only effect is that if you wind the torsions, they will prob hit the bumpstops when you hit the buttom. other than that, the springs go in like normal.
Hi, i've also got factory hydrolift, have done 60mm suspension lift, and 40mm body lift, rear easy as, just get springs stretched out 60mm (cost me $80 for both), factory shocks still have enough travel on full etxtension. for the front, i did a ball joint flip and extension, a guy on trademe sells a kit, all it involves is removing ball joint from top, put under neath arm, and put 10mm spacer in between, then bolt back up, you will need to get caster/camber wheel alignment done, but if you know an engineering guy, just remove 1x ball joint, and he can make template off that. simple as... also when remove bump stops, turn 180 degrees as the are tapered, this gives a little bit more movement, then all i did was wound torsion right up, till no more go, the hydrolift still work , gets more as its further up the torsion turn, no problems, when all 150mm high, drive shaft angles all still within spec angles, all fine...
"MudJunkie" active member of the Geyserland 4wd Club
92' 3.0 v6 swb
40mm bodylift, 60mm suspension lift + factory 50mm hydralic lift, 33" BFG's, LSD, 8000LB Winch, Balljoint Flip & Extn, Bushranger 72ltr Comp & tank, many more mods
explain the bump stop bit more, keep the top ones on the top etc , but rotate 180 degrees, you will see when you take them off what i mean, the have a wedge shape, only small difference , but any difference helps, cheers
"MudJunkie" active member of the Geyserland 4wd Club
92' 3.0 v6 swb
40mm bodylift, 60mm suspension lift + factory 50mm hydralic lift, 33" BFG's, LSD, 8000LB Winch, Balljoint Flip & Extn, Bushranger 72ltr Comp & tank, many more mods
Have a look at your front bump stops and see how much clearance there is there with your suspension in it's high position. If they are pretty close then you won't get any benefit from lifting the front.....
Rear coils are easy to fit and you hydraulic lift can stay and still work but its base setting will be higher than before. Coils are $200 to $250. Wind the front up as per normal.
Do a Ball Joint flip and that'll mean you can get it a bit higher again - why do you want to lift it higher?
Personally I would not put a spacer in the ball joint as the leverage factor is getting pretty high. ANd don't run around with it would up on its top bump stop! You need some down travel otherwise it is just dangerous.
NJV6 wrote:Do a Ball Joint flip and that'll mean you can get it a bit higher again - why do you want to lift it higher?
I am looking at options as to go higher or maybe a winch and front bar instead.
It appears from the responses I should look at the Ball joint flip etc first. I am thinking I will do that and go for the front bar and winch. I am working on the assumption that if i can't get over it then I can drag myself through it.
The other issue was that I wasn't sure if I needed to just do springs or springs and shocks for a suspension lift. So thats now sorted.
On that note I will back burner and keep notes from this thread and start looking at options for a front bar and winch.
If not to rude to ask where did you get your front bar mudjunkie? Home or bought, looks the part to me.
Cheers for that
96 Wrangler Sport. 2"BB, 1.25"BL, Front discos, Adjustable rear trac bar, Cb and yet more to come! "Its a jeep thing"
