joining heavy duty leckky cable

[Heath]

I'm going to run the battery cables from the rear of the vehicle (well the pos one anyway) and intended to make it go to the starter, then the alternator but someone suggested just running to the Pos that already exists in the engine bay. Might be simpler to do just that but I want advice on the best way to join the two wires. Seems easier than what I was going to do.
Is there a connector suitable or just shitloads of heat shrink to insulate it all.

Heath

[gimmemud]

the best join is a big crimp link with some heatshrink around it. you can get them from an electrical wholesaler or if you have a sparky mate im sure he could do it for you. or an auto electrician should be able to do it for you in a couple of seconds.

[rangimotors]

there are some really good isolater boxes that have a big on/off knob on the top they serve a dual purpose of making the connection and having a good kill switch if it all goes bad, i got some from a mate who's a boat mechanic (disigned to get wet which is great)
ill try and take a pic when i can

[tweake]

useing an isolator switch is not a bad idea at all.

cimp is barly ok. much better to crimp and SOLDER the wires.

[Heath]

Was going to have a dirty great plastic key in the cab to isolate power before it got to the engine bay, but maybe put it under the bonnet. Although then if it gets bumped or falls out it will be in a shite of a place to get to.

Maybe in the cab is better. Back to finding a connector.

[Dr_PC]

Was going to have a dirty great plastic key in the cab to isolate power before it got to the engine bay, but maybe put it under the bonnet. Although then if it gets bumped or falls out it will be in a shite of a place to get to.

Maybe in the cab is better. Back to finding a connector.

Run the POS cable from the starter back top the battery. Put the kill switch in the Negative side not the POS. I cant count the number of race cars I have seen over the years where a dead short live wire pulled from battery and stuff keeps running

[sig]

most electricians have a hex crimper which are great for bigger cables just make sure you get the right size crimp or lug or you are just wasteing your time .if you were local you could borrow mine

[gimmemud]

most electricians have a hex crimper which are great for bigger cables just make sure you get the right size crimp or lug or you are just wasteing your time .if you were local you could borrow mine

Thats the one i was meaning. if you do a crimp proper it is a fantastic join. i got the tool if you wanna use it. and can get you some lugs and crimps if you need em

[Heath]

Sweet. I'll get the battery box fitted this weekend and then run all the cables to length. Got some eyes to crimp on but will have to sort the connector side of things.

Will have a good look under the bonnet and make a decision on what I want to do and go from there I guess.

[dazza85]

I fitted one of these ... I've never heard of the key falling out ...
When I fit the second battery I will be adding a second one for it.
Hope this helps

I have been thinking of fitting an Battery Isolator to my truck but all the ones that I've seen have an open back.
This has always concerned me and I have thought about monuting one in some sort of plastic box to protect the terminals from being shorted out.
The operating flag hole looks like would allow all manner of mud and crap in that may stop it working when you really need it.
Any way that's the background because I found a new model that has a fully enclosed back, so I brought one, then I spent a couple of hours today fitting it ...

The way I have wired up is there is a fused feed from the battery side of the isolator that feeds the alarm and the live side of the stereo so that it does not forget its settings




As an upside you can remove the locking key if you are parked in the bush making it a lot harder to start and drive away.