warn m8000 cant get it going

[new2zukes]

well got my warn m8000 winch today and tryed getting it working but cant find out what i could be doin wrong, there are a few pics below of what im looking at but cant work it all out how can i test the winch goes without making it go threw the solonoids? any help would be great thanks. note that the wire that is not on the first photo was attached when i tryed winch

[QUADRACER]

have the same winch, will have a look tomorrow, think you have a earth lead from solinoid
box to body or ground missing, had same problem with mine.
also purchased second hand

[new2zukes]

well a little update, i have got the winch going (yay) BUT it only goes one way i have tryed the following method to see if the motor is working correctly:
1)put the winch in freespool
2)dissconect + lead from battery leaving neg one on.
3) dissconect the 3 cables on top of the motor (f1, f2, A)
4) run small jumper wire from A to f1 and put the power from battery to f2. the motor runs fine when i do that.
5) place jumper wire from A to f2 and put the power onto f1 this one does not work it turns the drum very slowly but i cant hear the motor working. if anyone can help me out that would be great thanks.

martin

[albundy]

Go to the warn website, i am sure there is a wiring diagram there.

[tgaguy1]

Would these help?

[new2zukes]

hi thanks for the diagrams but atm im trying to get the motor to run in and out without using the solonoids to rule out the motor being faulty. and atm it seems to be that the motor has aproblem with it bit i dont no what. just doesnt winch out. winching in is fine works a treat. thanks.


martin

[dazza85]

well a little update, i have got the winch going (yay) BUT it only goes one way i have tryed the following method to see if the motor is working correctly:
1)put the winch in freespool
2)dissconect + lead from battery leaving neg one on.
3) dissconect the 3 cables on top of the motor (f1, f2, A)
4) run small jumper wire from A to f1 and put the power from battery to f2. the motor runs fine when i do that.
5) place jumper wire from A to f2 and put the power onto f1 this one does not work it turns the drum very slowly but i cant hear the motor working. if anyone can help me out that would be great thanks.

martin

Looking at the drawing and calling C your A, A your F1 & B your F2 you have done it right ...

I would suggest that you need a reasonable size cable ie similar size to that used to connect it to the solenoid pack
make sure that the connectors are clean and you have a good earth

[new2zukes]

hi yes all connecters are clean and have taken motor apart and cleaned the whole thing the cable that earths the winch is bigger than the cable used in the solonoids its about 20mm diamiter roughly and with lots of small strands not a few big ones. and the earth was going straight to the battery. when i ran the winch threw the solonoids it runs one way but the solonoids just click once when i try winch the other way, the winch drum does turn when i winch the other way but motor apears to not go. hope this info makes some sence.cheers


martin

[albundy]

When mine did this it was the brushes. There are two for forward and two for reverse.

[new2zukes]

oh ok well what are the brushes and where can i get these from and roughly what price as i dont want to spend a fortune on this winch as it cost me 600 already

[albundy]

The brushes are in the motor housing. You can take the end off pretty easily enough to get a look at them. The current from the batteries goes through the brushes to drive motor (basically enough). Can't remember the cost to replace as I bought them and did it myelf.

[new2zukes]

so its on the housing itself not the things on springs when you take the end cap off.

[dazza85]

Fixed it for ya

so its not on the housing itself - its the things on springs when you take the end cap off.

They'll look something like these :


But probably very worn

Also check this bit for wear ... it shouldn't be stepped like this ....

[new2zukes]

ok thanks for that il check it all tomorrow but i have taken the housing compleatly off and had a good look and cleaned everything but going over it all again knowing what might be wrong wont hurt. thanks guys.

martin

[new2zukes]

well took the motor housing off and gave it a good clean up and now looks like the photos below i cant see and wear on the brushes they look fine to me and the motor itself just had a bit of mud in the houseing but nothing seemed too worn. the things in the houseing looked a little corroded as you can see in the photos.

[Pedro]

now you got the housing off does the armature turn freely in both directions?

[new2zukes]

lol just put it all back together but im almost sure that it turns freely one way and a little tighter the other way but it does still turn.

[Pedro]

lol just put it all back together but im almost sure that it turns freely one way and a little tighter the other way but it does still turn.

when you run the motor in reverse or winching out does the motor run or try to run or runs but is labouring compared to forward or winch in?

Pedro

[Kiwimidi]

try this just cut it from another forum ........ connect the negative to the body of the winch


Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be “A ‘~ “F]” and “F2 ~‘.
Run a small jumper wire (5 “-6” dead’ lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from “A “to “F]” and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to “F2 “. The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.

5 Next, place the jumper wire from “A” to “F2” and put power from the battery to “F “. The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time


If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good

[new2zukes]

hi yes have tryed that as i said earlyer in the thread, works great one way but the other it doesnt

[new2zukes]

will take another look tomorrow just to make sure and a m8 is going to have a quick look at it aswell just for another opinion and it runs but has no tension. the drum rotates quite fast when it is not attatched to the gears but you can easily stop it with your hand

[Kiwimidi]

hi yes have tryed that as i said earlyer in the thread, works great one way but the other it doesnt

`

sorry shopuld have looked a bit harder.

I had a bit of experience with a superwinch. when it was powering out it was working against the brake in the middle of the drum. this did make it go quite slow and generated alot of heat in the middle of the drum. so much heat that we wouldn't have wanted to put synethitc rope on it. at the time we assumed that was how it was suposed to be. I'm not sure if this is the same setup for the warn but could be your problem.

[new2zukes]

well found out the armature goes both ways fine when i turn it by hand so i took it all apart all the pics tell the story better than my words but i would like to know which bit is the brake. as one of the bits looks really rusty. i will test the motor with the drum off and see what happens.




thanks


martin

[Pedro]

thanks


martin

this is the brake, it should come apart i think and be a clean assembly. hard to tell from the warn parts list

[new2zukes]

well some good news at last, tryed the motor with drum off so it has no break and the motor runs sweet as both ways:) so now its the situation of the break so i guess i just strip it down and put it back together. i also have some EP orange sticky greese that i was i saw in another thread so il repack the gears. thanks


martin

[NJV6]

The pic below someone mentioned as showing the brake is not the brake unless it is an oddball 8000 Warn.

I would try and get all that freed up however, especially where the motor goes through the bearing into the winch housing shown.

This picture here shows the brake.


It has the hex spline going into it and it will be somewhere in the centre third of the winch drum. To get it out I use the long end (handle) of a hammer and hit it against the ground - they can take a bit of brute force and ignorance especially if they are in a bit of a state.

Then you will go 'oh crap' as it all falls to bits. But look at this site http://4wdstuff.davejones.com.au/Other/ ... ebuild.pdf and it explains how to put it all back together nicely. Give the drum a good clean up and it may be that you need to replace the brake pads.

Hope this helps, Glen.

[new2zukes]

thanks for that info il get that all done tomorrow night and then i might be able to use the winch on the weekend:) thanks all for your help although its not all done yet so might be back on asking for advice:)cheers


martin

[turoa]

my dads winch had done the same thing and it was the brake. rebuild kits are availible for the brakes

[tgaguy1]

thanks for that info il get that all done tomorrow night and then i might be able to use the winch on the weekend:) thanks all for your help although its not all done yet so might be back on asking for advice:)cheers


martin

take photos of it as you pull it down and build it up again. Along with a commentary, this thread would be a valuable resource in the tech section.

[Madaz]

Hey there,
That model of warn youve got have a one way bearing inside the brake assembly , which does give trouble on this model.
Dont waste your time trying to get one off Fully equipped as they dont usually stock them and will try to sell you a whole new brake assembly - ( when i worked there we would buy them straight of a bearing shop as warn had discontinued that part)
Also dont be surprised that when its all fixed and put back togeather, that it still labours a lot harder when you power it out - this is simply how that model of winch with this type of brake assembly is.
Also unless some one has changed the brake assembly to a later model one , that brake should be well lubed up inside the drum - if the grease has gone all hard and dry that wont be helping, + dont use too thick of grease down there, something like what you would pack a cv joint with is pretty much ideal.

Hope this helps

Cheers