Safari spring lift to run 38,s

[tpft]

Hi,
want to put some 38,s under my lwb safari, currently on 33,s with a body lift.
prob don,t actually need 38,s but i really really want em besides they are such a ship they make anything less look small.
anyway had a scan threw old posts, as much as i can with the stinky dial up connection here.

what do i need to get em under? 4 inch lift? 125mm? what coils, drop box, radius arms etc etc etc??

[DieselBoy]

www.outerlimits4x4.com

[swampa]

i have done 2 inch body lift 2 inch coil spacers, 3 inch suspension lift, drop boxes to move diff 40mm forward, but this is to run 40's i have on, and heaps of cutting and mucking around with offsets as this size tyre rubs hard out on the radius arms, getting it certed in the next few weeks and then selling it to pay for a new toy(side by side atv)

[tpft]

yep checked out outer limits and a few other sites, mostly the posts turn into (like a lot of forums) into why the hell does the poster want such a big lift/tires etc etc etc and a lot of bullshit.

mostly i like big trucks, but at my place i use it 4 a tractor and drive over a lot of cleared scrub.........wood crawling

hoping for something like......u need this and that etc so i can start searching 4 bitz

[coxsy]

this is for 35's
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=11031

[turoa]

depends on how much you want to cut the guards. Theres a guy on outerlimits with 3" lift and 38" creepys and it looks pretty cool and hes cut the guards right out. For 38's i guess you'd be looking at around a 6" depending on how much the springs sag/weight it carries etc. 6" maximum anyway.

Then you just need some drop boxes and either some extended bottom rear arms (good idea as they bend easy, get em made heavier) or like most people just some longer tops (getting them made adjustable is a good idea)

[timotheus]

i have done 2 inch body lift 2 inch coil spacers, 3 inch suspension lift, drop boxes to move diff 40mm forward, but this is to run 40's i have on, and heaps of cutting and mucking around with offsets as this size tyre rubs hard out on the radius arms, getting it certed in the next few weeks and then selling it to pay for a new toy(side by side atv)

Can you cert tyres over 36".
Thought you couldnt.

Tim.

[cool__bananas]

you can cert any tyre as long as it fits under the body and it doesnt stick out?

[albundy]

Try the patrol forum in OZ.
Al

[Shane]

Hi,
want to put some 38,s under my lwb safari, currently on 33,s with a body lift.
prob don,t actually need 38,s but i really really want em besides they are such a ship they make anything less look small.
anyway had a scan threw old posts, as much as i can with the stinky dial up connection here.

what do i need to get em under? 4 inch lift? 125mm? what coils, drop box, radius arms etc etc etc??

4" lift with 1"-2" body lift would do it,you well have to cut the guards though(even with 6-7" lift still need to cut guards)its not that hard to do.
You well need to adj your bump stops esp on rear to stop tyres rubbing on inner guard.

[Bulletproof]

you can cert any tyre as long as it fits under the body and it doesnt stick out?

The other big issue with certification is whether it meets the braking requirements because every inch bigger alters the effectiveness of the brakes quite dramatically.

38inch tyres would probably mean upgrading horse power and braking as well as suspenion and body.

Cheers Richard

[Andrew1706]

Friend of mine had 38s on his SWB, had a 5" LWB lift with longer rear arms and drop boxes, 1.75" body lift and lots of guard chopping.

He had no rubbing in the front at all but had slight rubbing in the rear so he tubbed it.

In the end he went back to a 35 as certing the 38s meant something like 6 pot brakes on the front 4 pots on the rear, a lot more hassle then the extra tyre is really worth.

[darinz]

The biggest issues are going to be rubbing in the rear during articlation, clearing the back of the front wheel arch and the front of the rear wheel arch and brakes.
Brakes will be the expensive bit.
i can't see how you will need anymore than a 4-5" suspension lift and a small ish body lift as the restriction is going to be in the wideth of the wheel arch not the hieght. ie the wheel arch radius is smaller than a 38" tyre so unless you lift it by about 15" you won't solve this problem. However an angle grinder is your friend. A 3.5" lift gets the top of the tyre back to the same place as if 31's and factory hieght so more than that is not needed for clearing the top of the tyre!

Space the front diff forward a bit but more than 12mm requires the panhard rod to be changed as well or it will hit the diff at compression. Mine clears by about 10mm when on the bumpstops.

Part of the problem with the rear rubbing on the inner guard is the panhard rod. As the axles travels it gets moved from side to side so the right rear will rub and the left rear won't. Longer panhard sort of solves this but an 'A' frame or triangulated 4 link does it better.

Adjustable trailing arms are a good idea as they allow you to shift the rear diff back a bit and get it back to the centre of the arch after the lift. They are also stronger.

Brakes! 4 pots will be a minimum due to the rotating mass of the tyre. GQ's are boarder line with 35 Simex so anything more and brake work is needed to get a cert.

Don't foget with a 4" + lift you need to change you bump stop height or you will get coil bind (and a bent front diff).

A 4"+ lift needs castor correction. The best is drop boxes and they will shift the diff foward the correct amount as well. The best thing about drop boxes is they get the radius arm back to the correct angle so that the load is sent through the spring and shock and not through the arm to the chassis.

Good luck and we want some photo's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!