"bulletproofs" hilux specs and Videos

[turoa]

Sorry to say it but Id agree that those fans dont suck enough air. My dad had one on his nissan (although v8 powered) and it got way too hot. Now its got twin AU falcon fans on it and it doesnt have a problem. I had one on my lux and it got way too hot aswell. I ended up replacing it with a set of twin fans out of a rover sterling. They cooled it 100x better

[Bulletproof]

Thanks for the input Guys, I am completely ignorant regarding Electric fans.

The Guy who sold me the fan who generally knows what he is talking about ,said it blew heaps of air compared to most available .
It is an american fan that draws 25 amps and that is all I know about it which is miles more current than most I have seen that draw about 8 amps.
I have already mounted it so will hook up the electrics and test. if it fails, it sounds like the holden fan is the way to go.

Thanks Richard

[muddyhilux]

hi richard,id have to agree with the prementioned shrouding of the fan if u really want to get something out of it,i went to add a pic of mine but its gone but its a similar 16" fan mounted strait to a flat sheet of alloy checker plate,im also under the suspesions(spelling) that standard temps seem to be to high,im currently working on mine to get it better,runing an adjustable thermo switch ive got it turning on at around 85degrees,by the time it kicks in and really does its thing temp goes up to 90 but then drops suddenly to 80 and will hold that for quite a while,but im now looking at just running it all the time as when i trialed this the truck didnt get above 80degres at all,im just running a 2l 3ye but its pushing 35s and gets driven like a modified racecar so yeh,be interesting to see how ur set up goes,also as pre mentioned a indicator light is good,ive got a 10mm led which is mint,u see it weather night or day ,sori for the long post but hope it helps somewhat

[Bulletproof]

hi richard,id have to agree with the prementioned shrouding of the fan if u really want to get something out of it,i went to add a pic of mine but its gone but its a similar 16" fan mounted strait to a flat sheet of alloy checker plate,im also under the suspesions(spelling) that standard temps seem to be to high,im currently working on mine to get it better,runing an adjustable thermo switch ive got it turning on at around 85degrees,by the time it kicks in and really does its thing temp goes up to 90 but then drops suddenly to 80 and will hold that for quite a while,but im now looking at just running it all the time as when i trialed this the truck didnt get above 80degres at all,im just running a 2l 3ye but its pushing 35s and gets driven like a modified racecar so yeh,be interesting to see how ur set up goes,also as pre mentioned a indicator light is good,ive got a 10mm led which is mint,u see it weather night or day ,sori for the long post but hope it helps somewhat

Where is your switch mounted ?

My fan already has its own shroud.

I think the temperatures you are running are fine. The thermostat on a hilux starts to opens at 88C and is fully opened at 93C so the engine should be around the 90 mark. 80C would make it too cold.

Cheers Richard

[muddyhilux]

switch currently mounted on intake hose,when it was on top hose the fan never really went off becoz the 3ye have the thrmostat on the intake pipe not top pipe,i was meaning a shroud like this so the pull effectivly covers the full face of radiator


and thats interesting numbers u have,coz my thermostat says 82degrees on it,so im attempting to keep this at bout 85degrees,cos on some days its getting up to 100+(the previous post is where ive got it to by playing with it)and am still trying to get it to sit at 82-90 pretty much constantly,but im also suspesious i have a leaking head gasket coz im slowly loosing water but yeh thats something else

[Bulletproof]

switch currently mounted on intake hose,when it was on top hose the fan never really went off becoz the 3ye have the thrmostat on the intake pipe not top pipe,i was meaning a shroud like this so the pull effectivly covers the full face of radiator


and thats interesting numbers u have,coz my thermostat says 82degrees on it,so im attempting to keep this at bout 85degrees,cos on some days its getting up to 100+(the previous post is where ive got it to by playing with it)and am still trying to get it to sit at 82-90 pretty much constantly,but im also suspesious i have a leaking head gasket coz im slowly loosing water but yeh thats something else

Looks like your fan is exactly the same as my one.

I can't understand how a thermostat can work on the intake pipe. My one is like most and is fitted in the outlet from the head,before it goes into the top hose. Fitted here the head should remain at a constant temperature if the cooling system is functioning properly .
The service manager at toyota told me a fan should never need to go on the open road unless you are on a hill or sitting at the traffic lights.

My sensor for the guage is at the same place so is measuring the heat of the head.

This morning I have just welded a 16mm 1.5 nut to the bottom pipe to take the switch and if it carries on raining ,this afternoon will fit to truck.

Cheers Richard

[muddyhilux]

yeh i kno exactly what ya mean,to me it seems completly back to front and makes things alot harder n complicated,i think thats y my temps are going up and down so much as like u say standard setups work very well and yes ive heard the same about no fans on open roads etc and believe this should be correct,yeh i thort they looke very similar but mines a supercheap model,said it pulled 12amp max blew the 15 to pieces and now run a 20 so yeh,alot of fans do look similar these days tho

[Bulletproof]

Well guys you were right and I was wrong.

Been testing this morning and the result is . The truck is better with no fan than the electric fan.

I think it is actually restricting air flow through the radiator and causing it to heat up. I Fitted a warning light to show when the fan was on and around 80kph the warning light came on even though the fan wasn't working ,so my theory is the fan was being turned into a generator.

I then turned it on full time and the results were the same so this afternoon it is coming off.

Cheers Richard

PS This afternoon took the electric fan off and I may be a bit premature in rubbishing it. Discovered the fan needed turning over into the sucking mode and while the fan was off I found the motor is a 24v one and my truck is 12v.

It is a good quality fan made in the USA by Revcor 840027HP so is the high output 16 inch.

So I might need to do more reseach.

[wjw]

shouldn't get hot at 80k's though. Mine only gets hot on the open road on the way to tekapo on the long uphill where I'm trying to keep it at 100

[Bulletproof]

shouldn't get hot at 80k's though. Mine only gets hot on the open road on the way to tekapo on the long uphill where I'm trying to keep it at 100

Hi Bill.
The truck is not getting hot at 80k. The light to show the fan was working was coming on even when the truck was cold at 80k so the fan must have been turned into an electric motor to produce the electricity to make the light go.

I turned the fan over this morning and it was producing heaps more air but when I test drove it ,it was worse than no fan so have now scrubbed the electric fan idea and gone back to the original fan.

The truck never runs over 93 C on the water temperature but on a hill the oil temperature reaches 110C and that is what I am trying to reduce by lowering the water temperature in the bottom of the Radiator.

It appears at this stage oil temperature is about 20C above the water temperature in the bottom of the radiator so I would like to get the the bottom tank water temperature around 70C

I might have to go back to fitting oil cooler that I started on a while back.

Cheers Richard

[mudzilla]

Hi Richard, My theory on this is, Toyota spend millions developing motor vehicals, and they work. We,As red blooded kiwi petrolheads, choose to improve (haha ) on their design. I have not ever seen a better cooling system than a factory one. Viscous fans or electric from the factory is designed with shrouds etc to suit. We would have to spend a lot of time and money to "improve" the cooling.We push the limits with our excess boost etc ... Then expect a $20 fan to replace a $1m set up..??? My 2c inc GST..

Edit...Motor transplants etc are a differant storey , I will agree.. I'm meaning semi/factory vehicals

[dazza85]

Hi Richard, My theory on this is, Toyota spend millions developing motor vehicle's, and they work. We,As red blooded kiwi petrol heads, choose to improve (haha ) on their design. I have not ever seen a better cooling system than a factory one. Viscous fans or electric from the factory is designed with shrouds etc to suit. We would have to spend a lot of time and money to "improve" the cooling.We push the limits with our excess boost etc ... Then expect a $20 fan to replace a $1m set up..??? My 2c inc GST..

Edit...Motor transplants etc are a different story , I will agree.. I'm meaning semi/factory vehicle's

I would have to agree except that I believe the main reason that people change to electric is the bad habit that non electric fans have of chewing out radiators when you drive through deep water.

[KiwiBacon]

Hi Richard, My theory on this is, Toyota spend millions developing motor vehicals, and they work. We,As red blooded kiwi petrolheads, choose to improve (haha ) on their design. I have not ever seen a better cooling system than a factory one. Viscous fans or electric from the factory is designed with shrouds etc to suit. We would have to spend a lot of time and money to "improve" the cooling.We push the limits with our excess boost etc ... Then expect a $20 fan to replace a $1m set up..??? My 2c inc GST..

Edit...Motor transplants etc are a differant storey , I will agree.. I'm meaning semi/factory vehicals

I agree.
I'm running two Toyota Corona fans on my radiator. IMO factory electric fans from any car are a magnitude better than any of the aftermarket junk that gets foisted around.
If any fan claims to be reversible, then it's going to suck. The design features that make fans work properly in one direction stop them from working properly in the other.

[vvega]

shouldn't get hot at 80k's though. Mine only gets hot on the open road on the way to tekapo on the long uphill where I'm trying to keep it at 100

Hi Bill.
The truck is not getting hot at 80k. The light to show the fan was working was coming on even when the truck was cold at 80k so the fan must have been turned into an electric motor to produce the electricity to make the light go.

I turned the fan over this morning and it was producing heaps more air but when I test drove it ,it was worse than no fan so have now scrubbed the electric fan idea and gone back to the original fan.

The truck never runs over 93 C on the water temperature but on a hill the oil temperature reaches 110C and that is what I am trying to reduce by lowering the water temperature in the bottom of the Radiator.

It appears at this stage oil temperature is about 20C above the water temperature in the bottom of the radiator so I would like to get the the bottom tank water temperature around 70C

I might have to go back to fitting oil cooler that I started on a while back.

Cheers Richard

as far aas a oil cooler goes the best option is a external pump that sucks fromt the sump ... pumps it though a rad and then returns it back to the sump
its what a lot of race setups use and its very effective as its complely indipendent of the engine..aside form drawing some power
i think yourll find that lowering your water temp wont have as bigger inpact as your wanting
been though this problem many times and always with the same outcome as detailed above :d

[wjw]

Hi Richard, My theory on this is, Toyota spend millions developing motor vehicals, and they work. We,As red blooded kiwi petrolheads, choose to improve (haha ) on their design. I have not ever seen a better cooling system than a factory one. Viscous fans or electric from the factory is designed with shrouds etc to suit. We would have to spend a lot of time and money to "improve" the cooling.We push the limits with our excess boost etc ... Then expect a $20 fan to replace a $1m set up..??? My 2c inc GST..

Edit...Motor transplants etc are a differant storey , I will agree.. I'm meaning semi/factory vehicals

The one thing I need to fix on my cooling system is to convert the radiator to a 4 core but that needs $$$'s and yes Mr Toyota has put more research and $$'s into cooling system design than we have...

[Smurf]

I agree.
I'm running two Toyota Corona fans on my radiator. IMO factory electric fans from any car are a magnitude better than any of the aftermarket junk that gets foisted around.
If any fan claims to be reversible, then it's going to suck. The design features that make fans work properly in one direction stop them from working properly in the other.

I'd agree with this. I have two 10 inch pusher fans in the front of my radiator, one is a new generic one and it moves a lot less air than the Vitara one beside it.

[Steve_t647]

One thing to add, Mr Toyota did all their testing to find the best design but for the minimum acceptable radiator for the factory setupchqanging the size of the radiator and changing the power from the engine usualy will exceed the factory spec. Early Subaru's from Japan had overheating issues because the Japaneese spec radiator was designed for open road running (no fan) or heavy traffic, they did not test them in the NZ type around town running as they were designed in Japan for Japan

[wjw]

One thing to add, Mr Toyota did all their testing to find the best design but for the minimum acceptable radiator for the factory setupchqanging the size of the radiator and changing the power from the engine usualy will exceed the factory spec. Early Subaru's from Japan had overheating issues because the Japaneese spec radiator was designed for open road running (no fan) or heavy traffic, they did not test them in the NZ type around town running as they were designed in Japan for Japan

Thats why my truck has a 3 core radiator and NZ ones have 4 core..

[Shane]

shouldn't get hot at 80k's though. Mine only gets hot on the open road on the way to tekapo on the long uphill where I'm trying to keep it at 100

The truck never runs over 93 C on the water temperature but on a hill the oil temperature reaches 110C and that is what I am trying to reduce by lowering the water temperature in the bottom of the Radiator.


Cheers Richard

110c is not that hot for oil temp,I wouldnt be to concerned

Shane

[Bulletproof]

shouldn't get hot at 80k's though. Mine only gets hot on the open road on the way to tekapo on the long uphill where I'm trying to keep it at 100

The truck never runs over 93 C on the water temperature but on a hill the oil temperature reaches 110C and that is what I am trying to reduce by lowering the water temperature in the bottom of the Radiator.


Cheers Richard

110c is not that hot for oil temp,I wouldnt be to concerned

Shane

Hi Shane
I agree that 110C is not that hot for oil.

My oil under normal driving is about 88C and oil pressure is about 390KPa . Under load on a hill with the supercharger on and running about 600C on the pyrometer the oil temperature goes up to 110C and the result of this is the oil pressure drops to about 370KPa and that is why I am trying to cool the bottom Radiator temperature to make the internal water oil cooler more effective.
While under load is when I want max oil pressure.

Cheers Richard

[SMOKEY]

Hi Richard, I know of your reputation in the building industry as being a perfectionist and good on you it Is hard to get Trades People who take pride in their job now days ( my son always speaks highly of your reputation ). In the motor industry chasing the loss of 2.9psi caused by heat would be considered being pedantic and how many K's has your motor done since it's rebuild. Now to be serious ------- I had the misfortune to work on a Holden Astra 1994, last night and It had a nice compact electric fan set up that would fit in your space and it dragged lots of air, also Karen's Vectra 2000 has a compact electric fan, I know you will get there in the end,

YOUR A PEDANTIC PERFECTIONIST,

FITZY

[vvega]

Hi Shane
I agree that 110C is not that hot for oil.

My oil under normal driving is about 88C and oil pressure is about 390KPa . Under load on a hill with the supercharger on and running about 600C on the pyrometer the oil temperature goes up to 110C and the result of this is the oil pressure drops to about 370KPa and that is why I am trying to cool the bottom Radiator temperature to make the internal water oil cooler more effective.
While under load is when I want max oil pressure.

Cheers Richard

are you willing to consider a external oil cooler and pump setup ?
or consider changing your oil rating ...

[Bulletproof]

Hi Shane
I agree that 110C is not that hot for oil.

My oil under normal driving is about 88C and oil pressure is about 390KPa . Under load on a hill with the supercharger on and running about 600C on the pyrometer the oil temperature goes up to 110C and the result of this is the oil pressure drops to about 370KPa and that is why I am trying to cool the bottom Radiator temperature to make the internal water oil cooler more effective.
While under load is when I want max oil pressure.

Cheers Richard

are you willing to consider a external oil cooler and pump setup ?
or consider changing your oil rating ...

I already have an oil cooler and the connections but have been afraid to put it on in case I end up with oil that is too cold because under normal running the oil temperature is about right.





I might put it on with a fan to control the temperature.

Cheers Richard

[vvega]

throw away the sandwich plate ..
get a electric oil pump .. put a boss in your sump for sction .. and one down the other end for return .. ..pump.. rad .. sump ... maybe even add in some bypass filtration there .. and one more boss for a thermatic switch to turn the unit off and on at your desired running temp

ill go look in the shed later see if i have any of left from my last setup

basically there comon use is a diff/gearbox cooler setup in a curcuit car
tilton used to make the pumps... im not who does now

ill see what i can find ... but it is the way to sort your problem and has the ability for you to basically pick your oil temp

[vvega]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... til-40-525
thats the tilton part ... but its a diapham pump ... there is a gear driven one... bit more reliable

[Bulletproof]

Oil overheating problem solved.

I was looking at my Surf radiator yesterday and noticed it had 52 cores across and the Hilux is 41 cores so that is alot extra cores .Times 3 = 123 compared to 156.
Swapped them over this morning and went for a test drive up the Spooners range.

Pyromter 610C Water 90-92C oil 98C and cruising 100k on flat road oil 85C so I am completely happy now because the internal oil cooler is now working properly.

Cheers Richard

[vvega]

awesome i have a 4 core alloy sprintcar rad in mine and i havent had any heat issues yet
oh and i found that oil pump this morning
might just stick it on mine

[KiwiBacon]

I might put it on with a fan to control the temperature.

Cheers Richard

That's a dodgy looking casting. I have one in my gearbox adapter setup that looks like it came from the same place. Bloody thing seeps oil despite my best attempts to seal it.

[oldblue]

Dodgy it my look, but it dosnt leek, Had it and the oil cooler on my old "Oldblue" 40series Crew Cab with a 2H that I turbo'd.
Fitzy will remember it

[SMOKEY]

Thanks Kev for putting me in the old age bracket with you and Richard ,

YES I DO REMEMBER YESTERYEARS BUT NOT YESTERDAYS,

FITZY.

PS; Oldblue (40#) was used as a ground anchor on one of the Day/Night enduros.