pressurising diffs and gearbox

Garage talk. Anything from mounting a winch to water proofing the electrics.
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wjw
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by wjw »

Keep it as large as possible for as long as possible... I used irrigation hose and then got some adapters to goto the 6mm stuff from Para-rubber.
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wjw
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by wjw »

Pump goes through the hole where the clutch would be
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Adapters to go to diffs, gearbox and transfer case

Image

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rxsmiddy
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by rxsmiddy »

this is a very simple easy simple set up that alot more people should have. My question is, i am about to set up a A/C pump for a compressor, if i have this running into a air tank off a truck, will there be enough flow to run regulated pressure into my diffs/g/boxs? or should i run the pumps as segested?
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rangimotors
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by rangimotors »

i think it depends how you use it, i think they take a bit of air to fill up for a start but then shouldn't leak bugger all. So if you are running it all the time then it might take a bit to pressurize but once its done it should maintain it fine. If you are wanting to flick a switch (for a solinoid or similar) just before you go in the deep stuff then i think you are better to go for a high flow low pressure system like the air bed pumps. There are pro's and cons for both.

Is there anything wrong with having them pressurized all the time?

if not i like the regulated mains pressure low flow low pressure system only because there is nothing to worry about turning on and off etc.

With the airbed pumps they are loud as hell and will not turn off once pressurized they just keep pumping until you turn them off, they can overheat and shit out easily.

Although with the airbed pump its standalone and very cheap at least you know when its working and if its not its prob just a 20 dollar pump.

Rambiling all of that brings me to another question, do they need alot of flow because of the vacuum caused when the diff goes from being hot as hell and into cold water? Or because its low pressure but alot of area to fill?
Obviously if its just alot of area to fill then low pressure low flow is fine (will just take time) but if not and its the big suck from temp change that we are trying to get around then i'm sure we need much more flow aka low pressure high flow aka an airbed pump :lol: , i think i just talked myself round...
Never argue with an idiot, they drag you down to their level then beat you with experiance!
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rokhound
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by rokhound »

Pretty much as Dave stated above.
The biggest issue with regulated air, is actually getting your hands on a reliable 0-10psi reg. One of these will normally cost you at least twice what an air bed pump will.
Ugly is a state of mind..... and the state of my truck!
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wjw
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by wjw »

rokhound wrote:Pretty much as Dave stated above.
The biggest issue with regulated air, is actually getting your hands on a reliable 0-10psi reg. One of these will normally cost you at least twice what an air bed pump will.


There is the volume issue to. I have both diffs, Transfer, Auto, Spark plug tray in top of motor and dizzy. All this has to be a good few litres of air. The other idea behind the airbed pump is it is fast to get air in there and it won't blow your oil seals.

I am getting my aircon pump sorted a compressor but that will be for air tools and tyres. It will feed a tank under the truck somwhere.
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fweddy
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by fweddy »

I have recently done my two diffs (yet to do t/case etc) with the airbed set up. very easy to do. The hard part was hunting down the suitable parts and thinking of ways to do it. Think it cost me about $18 for pump and $40ish for all the fittings/hose. Hooked it up to a switch on the dash.

I have yet to see how effective it is. Only been in deepish water once since and I switched it on just after going in and just before I realised I was stuck :oops: (Deeper ruts than expected). But at least I managed to try out my winch for the second time since overhaul.

Will report back later when I check in the diffs and try some more water.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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wjw
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by wjw »

I used irrigation fittings and old radiator hose. The only expensive parts were the reducers.
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VX Scotty
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Re: pressurising diffs and gearbox

Post by VX Scotty »

I've been thinking of doing the same to my truck. My petrol (yes it is thirsty!) VX has a factory belt driven air pump that delivers air into the exhaust system to aid combustion in the cat converters. These are long gone so was considering using the pump for this purpose maybe. I am picking it is a high volume, low pressure pump and it draws it's air from the air cleaner. Pipe size is around 19 - 21 mm also. Will look into it and see how it goes. Obviously if the engine stops so does the pump, but thats prob the least of my worries then!
I see a few have talked about running pressure to their winches. Electric or PTO? I have the factory Toyota Electric winch, so presume I would have to drill, tap and mount a fitting to it?
Cheers Scotty
1990 VX Landcruiser, 4.0l Petrol, 4" lift, 35's, winch, custom snorkel, really good fridge!
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