tray rust treat and protective coat

[williamhamilton]

Hi, looking at options for covering the rear tray in an old FJ40 as per pic. Is POR15 my best option and will this give good scuff protection for later or other suggestions to look at?



tia

W

[chrome]

put the rust to sleep with the por then chuck a bit of thin ply down with selftapping deck screws. scuff resistant and supercheap to replace

[williamhamilton]

nice idea, got a good deal on some utility clad the other day so that should do the trick.

cheers

W

[MNC]

Grind it back, put a coat of rust kill, then hipo liner ($100 from supercheap) it using the roller (dont paint on with brush as you will get a smooth finish).

This will stop the rust coming back and you get a real good grippy textured surface with the hipo liner using the roller.

Adding ply would be extra weight which you don't need - just my 2c...

[Sadam_Husain]

Just watch if you put ply down as it'll trap water and moisture and kick off the rust process again

[williamhamilton]

well there is a supplier of POR15 down the road in Greytown and a SuperCheap up in Masterton.. looks like I am doing some driving around this afternoon.

I have attacked the tray with a power drill with metal brush attachment and is looking HEAPS better.. treat and cover is next... mmm chemicals!!

Thanks guys..

W

[williamhamilton]

Bit of an update....

POR15 was goer.. never having done this before.. what you see may be wrong so do let me know

Prods being used




Cleaned up


Metal ready done and dried


first coat POR15 on (did not know it came in different colours)

[williamhamilton]

2nd coat.. looks soooo pretty in silver won't get a chance for Hippo liner till the end of the week. will post results. that POR stuff is HARD when dry!!

[MNC]

I see you have removed the seats. Are you going to do the wheel arch's and the floor in the cab too? Since its all ready to go and you're in the mode my vote would be to mask off the edge of the blue paint and do the whole inside of the tub.

That two pot hipo liner will cover this entire area but you better rust treat it first.

Nice to know there is a good rust killed 40 tub out there - make sure you look after it

2nd coat.. looks soooo pretty in silver won't get a chance for Hippo liner till the end of the week. will post results. that POR stuff is HARD when dry!!

[williamhamilton]

I see you have removed the seats. Are you going to do the wheel arch's and the floor in the cab too? Since its all ready to go and you're in the mode my vote would be to mask off the edge of the blue paint and do the whole inside of the tub.

That two pot hipo liner will cover this entire area but you better rust treat it first.

The seat was off to see if I could fit a couple of batteries under it (that will be another thread) but as you say.. while I am at it I may as well do the rest. It had crossed my mind but the front is looking ok.. most likely I will say "buggr it" and take the seat frame off petrol tank out and attack the whole thing! That does make sense.

Nice to know there is a good rust killed 40 tub out there - make sure you look after it

And it can be yours for a lowly price of $10,000 (comes with free engine, frame, diffs, axles etc)

[MNC]

Nice to know there is a good rust killed 40 tub out there - make sure you look after it

And it can be yours for a lowly price of $10,000 (comes with free engine, frame, diffs, axles etc)

Better get painting if you want to get that much for it

[williamhamilton]

The "bugger it" came sooner than I thought.. actually.. working form home meant I was home before 8pm and had time to spend with family AND head into the shed ......

Stripped out seat frame (will remove and reweld one of the supports to make space for a couple of batteries under the seat) and removed fuel tank. I remembered I had to work out why the fuel gauge was not working anyway...


Qustions:
1) how do I check fuel gauge in the tank is working?
2) While the tank is out is it worth cleaning it out? if so,how? read about water and pebbles, alcohol, good strong chemicals or send to radiator place to be done.. any recommendations?

.. maybe I should be moving this thread to Projects/Mods

[Sadam_Husain]

Qustions:
1) how do I check fuel sender in the tank is working?
Its a variable resistor so put an ohm meter on it and ckeck for the change in resistance as you move the arm up and down

2) While the tank is out is it worth cleaning it out? if so,how? read about water and pebbles, alcohol, good strong chemicals or send to radiator place to be done.. any recommendations?
Just flush it with petrol or meths and get all the loose rust scale and crap out and stick it back in, its a 40 year old fuel tank so its going to be on its last legs anyway

[coxsy]

ask skid he knows where to find a cool ali tank that will fit in a 40

[coxsy]

found a photo of it

[williamhamilton]

found a photo of it

mmm pretty I can feel the cash streaming out of my moth filled Scottish wallet already

W

[coxsy]

james trucks have the tank under the truck so dont need to sit on the fuel can

[williamhamilton]

Ongoing stripping down as I get myself deeper into this. Took off gearbox cowling and once removing all the duct tape that was on it I see LOTS of cancer around the edge. Is this a repairable part or is tis just how hey all end up and we just lie with it? Seens folks in the states building custom cowlings or getting after market bits and hundreds of $$$ (I loove their builds.. it is like a meccano set.. buy brand new bits and bolt it all together.. ok not all but many )

So back to my noob questions again.. refer attached pic. Worth trying to repair this or kill the rust and may it pretty once back on?


While I am here.. is there a plate missing from here or just how it looks normally?



cheers

W

[Sadam_Husain]

While I am here.. is there a plate missing from here or just how it looks normally?

A standard Cruiser rubber boot should fit in there..... helps keep the mud out of your clutch

[williamhamilton]

While I am here.. is there a plate missing from here or just how it looks normally?

A standard Cruiser rubber boot should fit in there..... helps keep the mud out of your clutch

mmm one boot required then.. do you have any sitting in your kitchen cupboards by any chance Marty? I thought it looked a bit airy when I took the cowling off..

W

[MNC]

...So back to my noob questions again.. refer attached pic. Worth trying to repair this or kill the rust and may it pretty once back on?

Give this guy a call (down in Hamilton), chances are that he will likely make these out of fiberglass. Some of his stuff is cheep as and them some not so much...

http://www.4wdfiberglass.com/