Cost effective way of upgrading diffs

Cloggy_NZ · Post by **Cloggy_NZ** » Sun May 28, 2006 8:39 am

What would be the most cost effective way of upgrading the weak 10 spline diffs in a Discovery?
Are later model 24 spline diffs really that much stronger?
I have broken three diffs now

it is not the axles that keep breaking but the little pinion gears inside.
I would imagine this could still be a problem with 24 spline diffs as these are only 2 pinion as well.
Which LR had the 4 pinion diffs (banjo type)?
I wouldn't mind changing the gear ratio as well as 3.54 is really a bit tall when I fit my 31.5" muddies. The loss in pulling power has suprised me when I go from my 206 R16 road tyres (29") to 235/85 R 16 muddies (31.5").
Should I just bite the bullet and fit some Cruiser diffs which are stronger and already 4.1 ratio?

De-Ranged · Post by **De-Ranged** » Sun May 28, 2006 8:51 am

The only other option is throw a locker in to replace the spiders, I know ARB make one to fit, don't know of any others

I went the ARB on my RR but I think the cruiser diffs would have been a better option

Cheers Reece

Cloggy_NZ · Post by **Cloggy_NZ** » Sun May 28, 2006 9:18 am

I went the ARB on my RR but I think the cruiser diffs would have been a better option

Did you fit an ARB with 10 spline axles? Any problems with the axles after doing this?
What makes you say the cruiser diffs would still have been the better option after fitting the ARB?

De-Ranged · Post by **De-Ranged** » Sun May 28, 2006 10:51 am

Hmmm spine count it was a while ago when I did this (spent to much time working on the lemon to remember the finer details on the Rover).... I think it was the 10 becouse there is a stronger axle (sulsbry) that is a higher spine count that I found out about... after I had done the ARB :roll:

As to the cruiser diffs it is all based on cost.... with the ARB to keep the warrenty (now know how to do diffs so wouldn't worry about it now

) I got it pro installed labour, locker and new bearings(becouse they wouldn't warrenty it without them) $3000 :shock:

needless to say I an't doing that again!!

Cheers Reece

JTop · Post by **JTop** » Sun May 28, 2006 12:05 pm

The L/R diff, under higher loads, flexs through its weak carrier which breaks the spider pin. The ARB has a far stronger carrier with 2 spider pins and 4 spider gears. You also need 24 spline axles to finish off.
The Cruiser diffs are stronger, cheaper, and have a better ratio standard.
To find a 4.1 rover will either be pre 1960 or expensive aftermarket.
The brakes are the biggest problem with old cruiser diffs.
J Top

lowbox · Post by **lowbox** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 8:34 pm

Or go the whole hog and get a set of maxdrives in - lockers, 24 spline axles made from stronger stuff and 4.1 ring and pinions... they are in aussie so the fright isn't bad but their stuff ain't cheap. :cry:

RoloverRover · Post by **RoloverRover** » Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:57 pm

I have cruiser diffs in my series 3 and have 4pot front disks and holden rear discs i bought it like this but have found with standard cruiser diffs when you have any weight transfer the light wheel will pick up and spin surprisingly easily even if you went cruiser you wold prob find you would want lockers especially with muddys on. As for brakes i can have a look and find out what they are if you decide to go down that track.