Adjustable Panhards

[flyingbrick]

Does anyone have anything to look out for when purchasing a set of adjustable panhards. Are some brands cheaper/stronger/come with bushes/something else im forgetting that others dont?

I'm needing a pair for my GQ.

cheers.

[wopass]

i got TOUGH DOGS as they have a good reputation for being made well...and they are

[coxsy]

just ordered a front one off superior engineering one the other day

[flyingbrick]

thanks for that. The TD ones at 320nzd (excluding postage) should be a bit cheaper than the EFS ones even.

Whats the bar cost ya from superior, Coxsy?

[coxsy]

$250 AU + shipping












































































=

[flyingbrick]

thats NZD?

[coxsy]

no $AU

[wopass]

pretty sure i got mine for bout 300 for both from a guy on TM... see if i can dig up his details...

[flyingbrick]

I'm betting if he was selling for 300/pair he could clear out his warehouse in a few days on ORE.

-NAthan

[tgaguy1]

:shock:

I'm betting if he was selling for 300/pair he could clear out his warehouse in a few days on ORE.

-NAthan

At $300 a pair, I would buy a set just to have as spares.

[1nzsafari]

what would you pay for 2nd hand adjustable panhards (front & rear) that need new brushes?? cheers

[tgaguy1]

what would you pay for 2nd hand adjustable panhards (front & rear) that need new brushes?? cheers

Have you got some there?

[Jerry]

Maybe JAFA can make some

[shroom]

am looking at these to buy for the rear after the 2" lift was done. They need bushes, but for $160 a pair, I dont see how you can go wrong.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=238040912

What are peoples thoughts on this guys stuff?

[DaveM]

I run his trailing arms, no problems with them

[darinz]

am looking at these to buy for the rear after the 2" lift was done. They need bushes, but for $160 a pair, I dont see how you can go wrong.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=238040912

What are peoples thoughts on this guys stuff?

And why do you need them? At 2" you don't need to change anything! I ran a 3" lift with all standard arms, no castor correction and standard panhards. And in that form it did a fair bit of high speed open road driving with no major handling problems. The joy of standard panhard rods (in particular) is they bend before other things break. Noting like having a controlled weak point that ultimately saves you money!

[shroom]

am looking at these to buy for the rear after the 2" lift was done. They need bushes, but for $160 a pair, I dont see how you can go wrong.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=238040912

What are peoples thoughts on this guys stuff?

And why do you need them? At 2" you don't need to change anything! I ran a 3" lift with all standard arms, no castor correction and standard panhards. And in that form it did a fair bit of high speed open road driving with no major handling problems. The joy of standard panhard rods (in particular) is they bend before other things break. Noting like having a controlled weak point that ultimately saves you money!

Ive got a horrible vibration in my driveline - everyone I have spoken to has stated you need longer panhard rods to correct the angle at which the rear diff points back to the gearbox. The extra 2" puts extra stress on the uni joints on the driveshaft.

[haydgq]

Sounds like you need adjustable top control arms or bottom trailing arms to adjust the pinion angle, Its easier using longer top arms to get the casing rolling back bringing the pinion angle up towards the rear output on your transfer case.

The panhard rod only stops the diff casing moving sideways to much.

[haydgq]

And with a 2" lift it shouldn't cause to many vibrations but gear box packers can be used to lower the trans/transfer case to bring the angles back to standard but remember this will cause the g/box and crossmember to hang down lower at the same time.

[albundy]

Have you tried gearbox spacers?

[shroom]

Sounds like you need adjustable top control arms or bottom trailing arms to adjust the pinion angle, Its easier using longer top arms to get the casing rolling back bringing the pinion angle up towards the rear output on your transfer case.

The panhard rod only stops the diff casing moving sideways to much.

Apologies, I think ive used the wrong name here...
Yes, I think what I am referring to is the upper or lower control arms.
I think that auction was for the top arms, 8 or 16mm longer (assuming for a 2 or 4" lift)?

[shroom]

Have you tried gearbox spacers?

I looked at them, not tried them yet. I have read a few things that said lowering the gearbox is not really a good thing

[haydgq]

Have you tried gearbox spacers?

I looked at them, not tried them yet. I have read a few things that said lowering the gearbox is not really a good thing

My Safari had a OME autokraft 2" lift and they fitted the gearbox spacers and it was perfect with no shudders at all so i would recommend trying them, Or just make some to fit i think the ones mine had were about 10mm but i cant recall 100%,

Maybe ring Autokraft and see how thick they are or ask Badnuz on here as he works there.

Also you might have 2" springs for a lwb truck hence they might be a little higher than other 2" kits for the swb gq/gu wagons.

[DaveM]

You are meant to use longer lowers, shorter upper, or a combination of both.
If you are spending money on arms, I'd go for longer/stronger lowers as the lower arms are a weak spot anyway.

[shroom]

You are meant to use longer lowers, shorter upper, or a combination of both.
If you are spending money on arms, I'd go for longer/stronger lowers as the lower arms are a weak spot anyway.

well that confirms it then. the auction for for longer/stronger lowers. thanks all!