terrano tie rod end upgrade

jumper · Post by **jumper** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 11:57 pm

could this be done
get rid of current tie rod ends and replace with heim joint, suitable bar and a custom bolt like this

or drill out the taper in the knuckle to a straight hole for a normal bolt :scratch:
would it need a cert

WACKO · Post by **WACKO** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 12:31 am

maybe rose joints? im not sure. engineering isnt my strong suit...

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:32 am

I believe, but would love to be proven wrong, that heims are illegal in suspension here... even if you mounted it in double-shear instead of single...

If it was legal to use it then you sould definitely need to have it certified, and I would probably go for a straight bolt, and castelated nut with split pin... although I'm thinking double-shear for that application would be safer - which means re-engineering the whole thing...

Explain why you want to do this? There shouldn't be any more flexability in the arm than the TRE can handle anyway...

Steve

albundy · Post by **albundy** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 9:08 am

Surprised you never told him to cut it all off Supralux :lol:

Why you want to do this jumper :?:

If you are bending them you must be giving it heaps as I have only bent one in 3 years and I give it heaps

Are the widebody ones bigger and stronger (just a thought) if so fit them instead.
Albundy

De-Ranged · Post by **De-Ranged** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 9:37 am

In the states they arn't allowed,
I've looked into using them (rose or heim joints) in extreme steering arms (top and bottom captive :twisted:

) but I couldn't find anything in the Low Volume cert online legal'es, that dosn't mean its not there :lol:

I have enough problems with english with out throwing all that in-direct talk in there

I'd talk to your local certifier and see what they have to say at the end of the day its there "interpretation" that counts (and I've noticed it can vary :evil:

)

Just a couple of pionts your not going to get much more range of movement (depends on the brand) your still looking at around 30deg same as most balljoints, the other issue is your going to have to machine these bolts from hard steel and this is gona cost... or if you run doouble captive :twisted:

way stronger !! your arms will cost a mint, as they're not allowed any welds now :evil:

but they'd be as cool as hell

Hey if you get the go from your certifier let us know

Cheers Reece

Post by **mike** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 12:01 pm

albundy wrote:Surprised you never told him to cut it all off Supralux Why you want to do this jumper If you are bending them you must be giving it heaps as I have only bent one in 3 years and I give it heaps Are the widebody ones bigger and stronger (just a thought) if so fit them instead.
Albundy

This is why. A nissan on 32" Simex's trying to follow a surf on 31" SAT's :lol:

De-Ranged · Post by **De-Ranged** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 12:47 pm

a little bit to much "toe in" used to do that with my wanker's steering.... not quite that bad tho :!:

and it wasn't the balljoints it was the relay bar that would bend .... just about every trip :lol:

Cheers Reece

jumper · Post by **jumper** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 2:44 am

i was just looking at a way to strengthen the tie rods either by replacing or adding to them. looked at this http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringsystems.html and and thought it might be possible. replacing looks like a no go, so what about a tube over them to stop them bending so far when they go?
i have bent 4-5 tre's and snapped 1 all on 33s and now i have 1 bent idler arm pivot :evil:

had a bracket on it to stop it bending wof asked for it to come off then it bent before i put a smaller bracket on.
nissan on 32 simexs 1 difflock and 1 very bent tierod end trying to follow a surf on 31" SAT's with 2 difflocks

i notiecd that the tre's on the right side have about 5 threads showing which is right at end of their movement and the left has 15-20 showing . it is the left that keeps going could this be part of the problem? is that normal for tre's? the right has not been touched since last aligned.

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:43 pm

wjw · Post by **wjw** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:46 pm

I know why they bent..

It's the Arsenal FC on the number plate... bad karma :lol:

sorry couldnt resist

albundy · Post by **albundy** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:50 pm

Now that's what I call bent

I have just had to replace mine for a warrant , tried to get a good set at wreckers, got standard d21, and they are smaller then the widebody model. There in may lie an answer for you.

But I am now convinced from all the damageI have done lately to hub, cv's, steering,stub axles and suspension, the sooner I put safari axles and steering on the better

Al

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:06 pm

Perhaps I should have taken a photo of the box of spare ones he carries which had hals a dozen bent ones in it......

Still the mighty Terrano was quickly fixed and did this soon afterwards...

PS how much water got in it?

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:39 pm

Found some more pics

JTop · Post by **JTop** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 9:17 pm

The 2 tierods should be equal lengths to give correct ackermans angle, or in other words Toe out on Turns. The average tyre shop W/A guy just adjusts one side till the wheels are straight which gives scuffing on turns etc
J Top

jumper · Post by **jumper** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 7:52 pm

what part of the widebody ones is bigger thread, body of tre, taper :?:

the tre gave up where mikes truck is in pic above :evil:

De-Ranged · Post by **De-Ranged** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 9:57 pm

Having diff length threads wont effect your toe in/out as this is based on the total length from balljoint to balljoint (regardless of wheither its a single bar "solid axle" or multi bar setups "IFS" and is self centering (if right makes the steering straighten after a corner)... it is from a lazy mech when they did the allignment, instead of adjusting both evenly he's done it all from one side :roll:

and it does effect strength

As for ackerman this is 99% set by your steering arms and is what makes the inside wheel track tighter in a corner, the toe in will have a very slight effect on this

Oh and got some bad news for those interested in the "Bulletproof" Rose joints.... not legal I asked today even if you through mount it, top and bottom

If you want I'll make you a set of short arms to run 22mm Threaded hilux balljoints :twisted:

you'll have to bring it up so I can have a measure up

Cheers Reece

albundy · Post by **albundy** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 6:22 am

Jumper, have since found out that the diesel and v6 are different sized. What I am referring to is the size of the tapper for the where the joints slot into the holes. Sorry my terminology is off, I am skilled at fixing human bodies not vehicles, but learning all the time :lol:

Al