Piece of Crap D22

[stumpys]

I have a 2003 Navara, 3.0lt, dual cab diesel D22, with a ZD30 engine.

I have been taken to the cleaners previously by a mechanics regarding the "neutral switch" problems on the gear box that leads to surging in third and fourth gears. That now fixed after spending $7k on the following misdiagnosed issues:
New primer pump
New accelerator pedal
New diesel pump
New computer

I took the mechanic to small claims and only recouperated partial costs.

During these repairs being done (the whole process took nearly six months to misdiagnose and misrepair) the vehicle began to "stall" during engine braking in 5th gear ie travelling in motorway traffic, take foot off accelerator to coast, put foot down again to accelerate upto speed of traffic and there is no pick up at all. Change down to fourth and the revs stay the same - no accelerator input will help and vehicle stalls. Right there in the middle of the road.

Will only do this intermittently but seems to like doing it the best on the down slope of the harbour bridge in flowing traffic.

Engine warning light comes on, turn ignition off, on. off again and she'll start first crank! I have got this done to such an art now I can do it in traffic without pulling off to the side of the road. Take it straight to service centre to have computer checked and there are no fault codes at all.

The repairs listed above only fixed the problem when a new computer was installed in the vehicle. That list of repairs was completed in about march 2009 so the repair is lest that 8 months old.

Mods that have been done to the car include:
Disconnecting the EGR and installing a catch can thats about it other thant that she is a bog standard d22 that has done 170000km.

Tweake has tried to diagnose the problem in the past, does anyone else have any ideas, I'm not spending another cent on this piece of shit until it is sorted!

[Jerry]

might be some info here, theres may be some info on outerlimits as well....

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... hilit=zd30

[stumpys]

From the off road express forum I picked up this.......

the oil mist problem can be fixed by fitting a catch can that has a good filter medium in it to catch the oil mist. an empty can doesn't do it.

Done just installed one

bad servicing is a big factor. these motors are high EGR, they get a lot of soot in the oil. using poor oil or incorrect oil (do not use CG grade) results in problems.


Vehicle is just past service date/time


boost normally is 15psi or so, over boost cut out is 30psi. however its not the boost that kills it, its the high back pressure on the motor from the turbo which increases EGT's. the high back pressure is due to the turbo being operated incorrectly mostly due to dirty MAF sensor.

Who what how where and why is the MAF sensor and how do I clean it?

the other thing is the EGR valve. if it sticks it causes the turbo to over spin and increase boost and you get increase back pressure.on these the ECU adjust s the vanes to increase back pressure which is bleed off through the egr valve. the egr valve is what keeps the back pressure down, block the EGR off and you get big backpressure which spins the turbo up and you get big boost. thats why you need to adjust the turbo if you block the EGR.

My EGR is blocked off, so how do I adjust the turbo?

Before you all think I'm a dipshit my best mate is a diesel mechanic for a large trucking firm here in Auckland. He is perplexed by this problem too but has the ability to help me fix the problem if it is diagnosed.

[tweake]

this still going on ! ! !

if you get check engine light separate from all the lights coming on due to stalling, its sounds like ecu is stopping due to faulty sensor. now there is quite a few sensors the ecu does not check ie you will not get a fault code. i will have to dig out the list. it might be a case of testing or swapping sensors to find the dicky one. its a nitemare way of doing it but sometimes the sensors will test ok but they will fault when in use.
one that comes to mind that i've heard the odd problem with is the crank sensor on the front pulley. i'll have to dig out the list and see if i can narrow it down to a few suspects.

[stumpys]

The entire dash illumintes - airbag the works. THe engine fault light does not stay on and "resets" when the engine is restarted.

[tweake]

boost normally is 15psi or so, over boost cut out is 30psi. however its not the boost that kills it, its the high back pressure on the motor from the turbo which increases EGT's. the high back pressure is due to the turbo being operated incorrectly mostly due to dirty MAF sensor.

Who what how where and why is the MAF sensor and how do I clean it?

the other thing is the EGR valve. if it sticks it causes the turbo to over spin and increase boost and you get increase back pressure.on these the ECU adjust s the vanes to increase back pressure which is bleed off through the egr valve. the egr valve is what keeps the back pressure down, block the EGR off and you get big backpressure which spins the turbo up and you get big boost. thats why you need to adjust the turbo if you block the EGR.

My EGR is blocked off, so how do I adjust the turbo?

thats for the patrol version of the motor.
navara doesn't have MAF sensor or variable turbo so nothing to adjust.

now if you have blocked off EGR have you disabled the EGR butterfly ?

now this may sound really strange but did they put a new glowplug or injector pipe cap on the rocker cover? (plastic cap that seals around the pipes going into the head).

[stumpys]

I did not disable the EGR the mechanic did. The way that he explained it was that they "dropped" a ball bearing down a hose to block it.

Not my mate the mechanic the one I was forking the cash over too.

[tweake]

ok, that sounds sus straight away.

first thing you do is go check all vac hoses for any ball bearings stuck in them and remove it. let me know what hose its in.

[stumpys]

Now this is when I'm a dummy - I'm a home and can look at the vehicle straight away - which/what are the vac hoses please?

[tweake]

(click on pics for full pic)

ANY hose thats about that size. sorry about the lines on the pic.
even check fuel hoses etc for any bumps that may be a ball bearing. cheack ANY hose for a ball bearing. should be able to tell as it will be a little bit fatter.
don;t forget to check the hose that goes to the acuator which is inbetween the intake pipe in the pic and the firewall.

[stumpys]

yes there is def a ball bearing in one of the hoses.

It is on/in the egr actuator hose

[tweake]

while i doubt its the cause of the problem (unless hes retarded and its keeping the butterfly shut !) but it will be causing rough shutdown. i would remove it and IF the EGR is actually blocked, set it up as per my diagrams, which you probably have seen on the navara forums.

now check on the EGR pipe which is the alloy pipe on the side on the inlet manifold, bolts on with two bolts. check there isn't a plate in there. there should be a silver gasket but they may have put a plate in there which you should see the edge of.

if no plate there look carefully at the other ends of that pipe. you will see where it joins a control box that has hoses and wires going to it. check both sides don't have a plate fitted as well as a thin gasket.

if there is no plate all you will need to make one. simply pull the gasket out of the top of the EGR pipe, cut a plate to suit. plenty of instructions on the navara forum for doing that.

[stumpys]

Now this is when my stupidity comes to the fore - rechecked the pipes and the blocked ones were in fact the two pipes running parallel to one another and held in the hose clips closest to the oil filler cap from your photo there were running to:
The top hose of two to the swirl control solenoid, and....
The shut off solenoid.

Sorry for being stupid, but I don't know if plates were fitted on the EGR pipe on the inlet manifold because I don't know what I'm looking for or at.

[tweake]

pull the ball bearings out.
i know what they are trying to do and its a shit of a way to do it. get your mate to check if the EGR has been plated off, he will know what i mean.

worse thing you might get, if the EGR is blocked it may run a bit poorly at low rpm, worse being it will blow a bit of white smoke.

[stumpys]

If I do this http://www.navara.asia/general-tech-tal ... mod-6.html

Thats all good together with the alloy plate under the gasket at points 1 and 2 on this photo
http://www.navara.asia/general-tech-tal ... mod-4.html

[tweake]

the egr solenoid will have no connection to it in or out.

[tweake]

Will only do this intermittently but seems to like doing it the best on the down slope of the harbour bridge in flowing traffic.

what sort of revs are you doing up the harbour bridge before you start coasting and eventually it cuts out?

just been looking through a few things.

basic one... reset TPS. easy enough just warm ute right up (ie drive to work) and leave it idling for 10 minutes.

if its fuel cut that kicking in and not coming back on there is two main things. one is speed sensor which is not easy to check as the gauges is the ECU for the speed sensor. so there can be a fault with the gauges or loss of communication between gauges and the ECU.

the other is the TDC sensor on the front pulley which works out top dead centre and RPM. maybe its not bolted back in right and has to much clearance which can upset the signal it makes. ie makes it read inaccurate. catch here is pump injector timing is referenced to it so a possibility of injection timing being throw out enough for fuel not to fire (bit of a long shot).

hope that helps.

[stumpys]

Weel I have done both the oil catch can and the EGR disconnect, and have had no cutout on the car since! I Realise that the catch can has nothing to do with it but wonder if the exhaust/vacuum lines that have been changed during the EGR modification has.

Any how I have taken this "solve" to the mechanics that have caused me nothing but grief and cost me $'000s in misdiagnosis over the past couple of years.

Big thanks to you tweake for your help and patience

[tweake]

fingers crossed
i have no idea why it would have fixed it. i just hope it stays cured.
what catch can setup have you got? pic?
edit: was the egr plated off or did you have to do it?

all this nightmare from a simple $20 switch failure.

[Colinl]

Hi, Hate bringing old threads back alive but I've just went through this problem as well.

2003 D22 Navara Ventura ZD30 motor.

I've found lots of tweaks advice on other navara forums as well!
good stuff.

Anyways same problem. Throttle off, engine overruns for about 2-3 secs while coming up to lights, foot in clutch & take it out of gear & apply brakes to stop and engine revs would fall to zero and stall.
No error codes etc. its like the ECU forgot to restart fuel injection to keep the motor running @ 750 rpm.

Noticed idle speed was a bit higher than normal & when it didnt stall going through same procedure it'll take its merry time coming back down to 750rpm (idle) sometime hand around the 1000 mark.

Things I did to remedy this.

Blow out fuel lines backwards.
Leave battery disconnected overnight (still did it the next morning though)
Leave the truck idling for 20 mins. (Reset TPS sensor)

Spoke to auto sparky @ work and he reckons that the TPS (throttle position sensor) has two variable resistors to take your Throttle position & when one of them gets a bit dicky the truck spits the dummy.

Which could explain the high idle speed & slow return from throttle off

If it was the crank sensor you'll have a erratic tacho as well (which I dont)

The main fix I think is to reset the TPS sensor which I tried my hardest to get the motor to stall going through the same procedure & it didn't which I deemed fixed...for now...

[kiwinoz]

Is it insured....

[Trundle]

The main issues with the zd i strike are egr / carbon related ,
Also think about stretched timing chains on the zd's expecially on poorly serviced ones , have also had the same poor power , stalling issues on mitsis front stretched timing chains