Articulation

RoloverRover · Post by **RoloverRover** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:39 pm

What is the best and most cost efficent way of gaining good articulation from a s3 109 i have air shocks in it and doesnt seem to bad but i reckon theirs more to be had from it. Any ideas also it has series 40 diffs. I also have a project 2a on the way i am picking it up for free so it is going to be a dedicated offroader what other diffs and springs work well in landi?

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:54 pm

I am converting mine to coils in the front. The rear will stay leaves and will be converted to coil later. I get a decent amount articulation from mine

But I wanted more. so coils it is. Longer shackles and shocks would help. What are you gonna do with the 2a?

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 10:00 pm

BTW heres an idea ive been toying with http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4509 look on the second page. Should be be strong enough that I wont do any damage if my brakes and starter motor fail at the same time again while getting the position as a winch anchor :oops:

lowbox · Post by **lowbox** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 6:29 am

Some parabolic springs would be the easiest. Try Marcel at mamaku 4WD

krawlr · Post by **krawlr** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 1:07 pm

any of you rangie fans got some front coils@180lb i think theres x2 diff heights......

15.9inch pink
16.5 red.

im after the 15.9s ,these specs could be wrong so please correct me :?:

and sorry for the thread jack

RoloverRover · Post by **RoloverRover** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 6:45 pm

What are you gonna do with the 2a

Most likely put series 40 diffs in it with spring over adapt a form a pwwr steering shorten the back end down so the longest point will be the rear spring mounts take the tray off and fabricate a the litest form of a tray i can put roll bars on it a little bit of work on the 202 to make sure it is going to be a reliable motor. Tyres and from their most likley trial and error to improve on it. 2reasons im using the 2a Nob1 its free Nob2 its light and can be repaired with stollen oven trays from the kitchen :lol:

.

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 6:58 pm

to get the 202 reliable, convert it to EFI. You get a hell of a lot more power and torque out of EFI, theres also the instant starting, no running like crap on angles, better economy. Ive got the parts you need to convert it if you need them

wopass · Post by **wopass** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 8:15 pm

... i can just see it now... landi turns up and gets dropped off at my place with all the parts to do the EFI conversion,spring over conversion,AND your gonna want me to do it !

.....

as soon as i finish my datty ute mate ill hook into it if ya want :wink:

i seem to recall a couple of cruiser diff housings rolling around here somewhere to... or we could pop hilux gear into it ? smaller diff heads = more ground clearance and its not like its as heavy as a cruiser so hilux stuff should be plenty strong enough... cheaper lockers as well :twisted:

just a couple of ideas for you :wink:

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 8:40 pm

wopass wrote::roll: ... i can just see it now... landi turns up and gets dropped off at my place with all the parts to do the EFI conversion,spring over conversion,AND your gonna want me to do it ! .....

as soon as i finish my datty ute mate ill hook into it if ya want i seem to recall a couple of cruiser diff housings rolling around here somewhere to... or we could pop hilux gear into it ? smaller diff heads = more ground clearance and its not like its as heavy as a cruiser so hilux stuff should be plenty strong enough... cheaper lockers as well

just a couple of ideas for you

With the rear diff, if you're going with hilux heads, find a fully floating rear cruiser and weld the centre into it. It solves the offset problem and it is much stronger, and if the shaft breaks, you are still safely mobile.

The EFI conversion is really easy. Its just a small bit has to be removed from the firewall (for the manifold) and a new pickup put in (use the old pickup as a return).

RoloverRover · Post by **RoloverRover** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:10 pm

Im very keen on the EFI it sounds like the best way to get the torque pm me with how much you would like for it turoa the more i think about it the better it sounds to me and as for the fire wall its not a road going truck so im not worried about it i can patch it up to stop some of the water and mud comin in. As for diffs i like the idea of the lux diffs but Wopass you have seen how im likley to end up driving it i think it would be prudent of me to go with the cruiser diffs less chance of me destroying it ill have to just save the money a bit longer for the lockers. And the pluss side is i know a guy that has got a set that is already set up for spring over!! Im picking up th 2a on the weekend so ill post picks for all to see what i start with at this stage i dont know what condition it is in but nothin is beyond repiar

wopass · Post by **wopass** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:22 pm

RoloverRover wrote:Im very keen on the EFI it sounds like the best way to get the torque pm me with how much you would like for it turoa the more i think about it the better it sounds to me and as for the fire wall its not a road going truck so im not worried about it i can patch it up to stop some of the water and mud comin in. As for diffs i like the idea of the lux diffs but Wopass you have seen how im likley to end up driving it i think it would be prudent of me to go with the cruiser diffs less chance of me destroying it ill have to just save the money a bit longer for the lockers. And the pluss side is i know a guy that has got a set that is already set up for spring over!! Im picking up th 2a on the weekend so ill post picks for all to see what i start with at this stage i dont know what condition it is in but nothin is beyond repiar

well best you keep your eyes peeled for a couple of 4.1 ratio diff heads and front axles/swivel housings/disc brakes set up as the housings are Naked(i have axles for the back) and the housings will need to be RE- perched as the ones on them are a bit shagged.... something to do with the rough bastard who used to run them :twisted:

ohh and dont forget about all the other hic ups there is :roll:

i can see this being a fun project

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:25 pm

I have a 4.1 diff for sale :roll:

came out of a full floating housing but would probably fit a semi

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:38 pm

hell yes! go the s2a

my first 4wd, which is still sittin in the back yard, was/is a 2a.. love it.. lwb ragtop.. olive drab and the good ole lump of a 2 and a quarter litre engine... still strats up sweet as... the best truck in summer.. amble on down to the river with the kids in the back....

woe..................

sorry, thread jackin with a bit of a walk down memory lane.. :roll:

be good to see this build/mod using 40 axles... the best of both worlds... and a man after my own heart.. nice..

keep it up!

wopass · Post by **wopass** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:04 pm

turoa wrote:I have a 4.1 diff for sale came out of a full floating housing but would probably fit a semi

ahh thats right, you have

so you have the EFI set up AND a diff head..... so all rolo needs is another diff head and the front hub assembly and thats the housings sorted

Cloggy_NZ · Post by **Cloggy_NZ** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:08 pm

Building a Series 1 1/2

See avatar.
Running FJ40 diffs on Discovery / Range Rover springs and suspension arms. All with the same view in mind, good articulation available using stock LR suspension components, strong diffs and axles by using Toyota gear. Best of both worlds.
Now why didn't some car manufacturer make em like this...

Don't say it.....
I suppose they are called Nissans :?:

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:12 pm

wopass wrote:
turoa wrote:ahh thats right, you have so you have the EFI set up AND a diff head..... so all rolo needs is another diff head and the front hub assembly and thats the housings sorted

I also have surf parts for sale :lol:

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:17 pm

turoa wrote:
wopass wrote:
turoa wrote:ahh thats right, you have so you have the EFI set up AND a diff head..... so all rolo needs is another diff head and the front hub assembly and thats the housings sorted

I also have surf parts for sale

what parts turoa? just curious.. :wink:

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:21 pm

I'm wrecking one. I agreed to buy it because the seller made it sound as if it had a solid axle. Then I found out it was IFS. So ive been selling parts here and there. Its still sitting up the back, not having paid for itself yet

RoloverRover · Post by **RoloverRover** » Tue Jul 04, 2006 11:07 pm

lol when you say best of both worlds my s3 runs series 40 diffs and an ld28 that still has a fair bit of pull left in it yet. But it is certed so i dont want to go and mod that to much ill most likley use it as the tow vehicle and trailer this project. At least i have something to measure from for all the set up. Also my 3 has disk rear off a holden

JAMUBA · Post by **JAMUBA** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:57 pm

Hi turoa
These are what the UK guys are doing with series landys
from the gon3far website

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 1:35 pm

yea, they can really make the series flex. I had a look at that site before it went down. Although I hadnt really seen pics of the 109. It doesnt use the revolver shackles does it?

DieselBoy · Post by **DieselBoy** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 1:43 pm

Cloggy_NZ wrote:Building a Series 1 1/2 See avatar.
Running FJ40 diffs on Discovery / Range Rover springs and suspension arms. All with the same view in mind, good articulation available using stock LR suspension components, strong diffs and axles by using Toyota gear. Best of both worlds.
Now why didn't some car manufacturer make em like this...
Don't say it.....
I suppose they are called Nissans

Yep

You lot are making me jealous. There's a certain S1 in a shed that i have been meaning to do some work on..........................

lilpigzuk · Post by **lilpigzuk** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 2:07 pm

DieselBoy wrote:
Cloggy_NZ wrote:Building a Series 1 1/2 See avatar.
Running FJ40 diffs on Discovery / Range Rover springs and suspension arms. All with the same view in mind, good articulation available using stock LR suspension components, strong diffs and axles by using Toyota gear. Best of both worlds.
Now why didn't some car manufacturer make em like this...
Don't say it.....
I suppose they are called Nissans

Yep

You lot are making me jealous. There's a certain S1 in a shed that i have been meaning to do some work on..........................

Not a cream coloured soft top by any chance?? :lol:

Sort of what I am just starting. Start cutting a Discovery chassis down to 88" wheel base and throw my zuk body on it. Resisting running the rover aV8 t this stage, but front V8 Discovery coils all round should (hopefully) flex quite nicely

DieselBoy · Post by **DieselBoy** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 2:19 pm

lilpigzuk wrote:
DieselBoy wrote:
Cloggy_NZ wrote:Building a Series 1 1/2 See avatar.
Running FJ40 diffs on Discovery / Range Rover springs and suspension arms. All with the same view in mind, good articulation available using stock LR suspension components, strong diffs and axles by using Toyota gear. Best of both worlds.
Now why didn't some car manufacturer make em like this...
Don't say it.....
I suppose they are called Nissans

Yep

You lot are making me jealous. There's a certain S1 in a shed that i have been meaning to do some work on..........................

Not a cream coloured soft top by any chance??

You have a surprisingly good memory :shock:

Yep, it still drives, just needs an engine recon and either the clutch or selectors in the box looking at. Harder than usual to get gears :lol:

Its a mix of the best bits from S1, 2 and 3 these days though.

JAMUBA · Post by **JAMUBA** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 3:38 pm

How about these diff mods

http://www.seriestrek.com/toyotadiffs.html

I, keen to fit some land cruiser diff heads to the series housing , I have a series 1 so I think i'll join the land rover outer axle part with the bearing and wheel flange to the landcruiser end. Still working on a plan for the front axles.

Here is a photo of the hinged front spring mount

looks easy enought to make,

these guys use a 12" travell procomp shock, :shock:

The only thing I cant find at a price which will slip under the radar is a long travell d/shaft.

turoa · Post by **turoa** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 3:52 pm

Its only really worth it if you want to keep the rover stud pattern. With toyota axles you get alot bigger drums on the rear and discs up front. I'm not bagging that guys work BTW, because it is cool. Although I might fab up a couple of those spring mounts and try it.

JAMUBA · Post by **JAMUBA** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 12:14 pm

Toyota axles might be good but volvo portals are better especialy under a landy :twisted:

[/img]http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/images/albums/Jamuba/blue1.sized.jpeg[img]

[/img]http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/images/albums/Jamuba/TONK5.sized.jpeg[img]

[/img]http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/images/albums/Jamuba/TONK2_001.sized.jpeg[img]

portals are gooooood :wink:

[/img]

De-Ranged · Post by **De-Ranged** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:11 pm

Beasty 90

not much flex tho

Cheers Reece

De-Ranged · Post by **De-Ranged** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:38 pm

been looking at some sort of twist mount like J's one above for my lemon.... good news they are certifiable

They are on the list for this weekend.... I wasn't gona worry about revolver shackles as there is two sets of bushes on the shackle end and that end was gona be a bit of an issue for cert :roll:

Cheers Reeece

JAMUBA · Post by **JAMUBA** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:19 pm

Those rotating front spring mounts have a bolt and tube between the horizantal plates to lock them solid for road driving.
I think that lwb had a RTI score of around 960.
Youll need some parabolics springs, 32" long shocks, new shock mounts, longer brake lines, a high angle yoke d/shaft the ujs are spicer 1310 series, if any one can help with infomation on range rover d/shaft yokes, what I need is there angle of flex, the d/shaft needs to have 6-8" slip joint, and look at the cross member below the trans bell housing as the d/shaft might clash, space your wheels out and bobs your uncle.
I think paras go for $250 rocky mountain from those guys at Manaku 4x4, shocks for $300 those good ones from 4x4 stuff, $600 for a drive shaft, plus wheels or spacers, brake lines, certification, $2k? cheep at half the price. well thats my best guess any way.

Then do the back end

How much $ for a safari?

Articulation

Articulation

;-p

Re: ;-p