70 series useless brakes

[Slideways]

I've read through some threads about this being quite a common problem.

Last night I bled the front and rear on my BJ73 hopeing it would improve the braking since the front nipples looked like they hadn't been touched in years and close to seized.

But there was no difference, I still have weak brakes I get no more braking force no matter how hard I push the pedal. In fact it gets to the point were there is no more travel and it feels like there is a brick under the pedal. It won't lock up on tar seal but will on gravel.

My handbrake is fine.
Bled the brakes.
Have good vacuum.

I've read people recommend trying bendix 4wd pads, which I will try but the symptoms feel more like there isn't enough clamping force, kind of like trying to brake with no vacuum?

I've had three different 70 series myself, test drove two others and also driven my brothers. And they all have weak spongey brakes?!!

Does anyone know a definitive answer?

- Is something worn out?
- Are they crap from factory?
- Are the disks too small in diameter for the size/weight?
- Calipers too small?
- Booster under sized?
- Need correct type pads?

I just can't believe Toyota would have made something so under engineered when they are so well known for over engineering things!

[Jerry]

When was the Brake Fluid last changed?

[Slideways]

When was the Brake Fluid last changed?

I bled out a good 400-500ml, whether that is enough I dunno. I did it because I'd remove the rear brakeline to replace so would have air in the lines.

[Jerry]

I had a similar problem with my old LJ71, drain and replace all the brake fluid, then bleed the master cylinder first, then the rest of the system.

If you are running drums maybe look at a MR2 rear conversion (Jafa sells the brackets) or a Subaru rear conversion (Brian Howat sells these brackets

[Slideways]

I had a similar problem with my old LJ71, drain and replace all the brake fluid, then bleed the master cylinder first, then the rest of the system.

If you are running drums maybe look at a MR2 rear conversion (Jafa sells the brackets) or a Subaru rear conversion (Brian Howat sells these brackets

Cool I'll have to do a full flush and see if it improves things. Yep I'm running standard rear drums, while it would be nice to have disks on the rear it not really something I've budgeted for.

How much would the conversion cost (not including cert)?

[Beer_Cruiser]

It will be the drums...
I had no brakes so pull drums apart. They were full of mud and rusty.I ended up getting new pads(?) and drums(not cheap)
That was maybe feb. Was all good for a few trips but brakes are soft again so am going the disks soon in the new year.

[chevrolux]

I just picked up some mr2 callipers for $10 off trademe (shipping was $22 though ). Went to BNT and bought brand new 78 series prado rotors which were about 60 bucks each. And now just need the bracket from Jafa which is $125. Obviously I havent done it yet so dont know what else I will need but there cant be much else! Pretty cheap i reckon to get rid of those crappy drums! Oh and I am going to move my handbrake from under the dash and on to the floor. Dont know what that will cost but all im going to need is a new lever and some cable

[Fakey]

I just picked up some mr2 callipers for $10 off trademe (shipping was $22 though ). Went to BNT and bought brand new 78 series prado rotors which were about 60 bucks each. And now just need the bracket from Jafa which is $125. Obviously I havent done it yet so dont know what else I will need but there cant be much else!

You'll probably find that youll need longer wheel studs for the discs as I found the rear drum ones on my 40 were too short on the unthreaded shank, It also depends whether youre putting your discs inboard or outboard of the hub. Toyota seems to be the cheapest place to buy new studs, I used front bj74 studs an they were $9 each compared to $16 from RIPCO.

[Slideways]

Cheers Beer_cruiser I'll have to pull the drums off and see what they look like, although the handbrake seems ok. Eitherway there must be something wrong.

[basics]

dont complain, you must have one of the good cruisers if your hand break is fine

[Slideways]

dont complain, you must have one of the good cruisers if your hand break is fine

Lol i wasn't until I did a whole axle swap and replaced the cable though...

[Big]

Without a doubt I'd say it's your slave cyclinders on both back brakes... I''ve got a BJ70 and just about every woff time I have to either replace them.. or fudge them to work properly..Currently I've taken 2 slave to peices then painted the bits to stop rust, then inserted them together again , siliconing around the rubber boot to stop water sitting against the ram and body(where they rust and stick) so far seems to have worked.. but time WILL tell...
What I do with the slaves that I take out is gently remove the ram, then hoan the bore.. and get it ready for next time..so I have a slave ready for when i need it.
I'm trying to make it where once you do wut I've done you don't need to replace them until they ARE buggered..
Hope that helps. cheers

[andrew007]

have you checked your front callipers,i have had some of the pistons sieze in mine.it had same symtoms as yours.

[Robo]

I had to constantly adjust mine, mud just eats the shoes. I had no hand brake and pretty much just the front discs stopping me after every trip. Best advise would be clean and adjust your rear shoes regularly.