HELP... advice needed on holden V6 transplant

[Dace]

As some will know, I am jamming a holden v6 in my LN106, but have so many ideas in my head, I have no idea how to proceed

So far, I have decided on using the TH700R auto, have bought and fitted an Advanced adapter transfer case adapter but now it comes time to fit it under the chassis, I have an issue

I have been told that I will probably need to do a body lift, then lift the trans-engine to match, will give me better clearance for the diff to sump, better clearance under the TC and crossmember and clearance over the front tyre to floor pan/guard

The down side is I wanted to avoid lifting the body,but as I am getting it certed, I would weld the blocks (and gusset) for strength and integrity, I am not sure this is the best option

I already plan on fitting either 1 or 1 1/2 inch wheelspacers so this will partially negate the lift

All advice will be appreciated, I need to get back on track as it is stagnating now

Cheers
Dace.

[Sadam_Husain]

Is the question about the body lift?

I dont think it really matters if you use UHMWPE spacers or weld steel blocks in, UHMWPE would be easier

[rokhound]

If you are prepared to weld and gusset body blocks why not chop out the trans tunnel and alter the sump instead? Sump altering should probably be carried out any way to allow more oil to sit around the pick up and avoid the running dry syndrome when on steep sidling and throttling climbs.

Check out this site:
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewforum.php?f=53

[niblik]

if ya gonna pay for the cert to be performed on the engine trans conversion, why not just have the body lift put in that cert too?

all at the same so in the single cost type thing..

[Dace]

cheers guys,

I believe that a welded in spacer would put less stress on the both the body mount and the bolt than a bolted in spacer, question of leverage I think???

the question is lift or not, but the deciding factor is if the engine sump (modified for sure) to diff clearance will be a problem with out the lift, would prefer to keep the COG lower but don't wanna Fark around fabricating engine mounts if its gonna have to be re-done later cause the Diff hits the sump

[Steve_t647]

you could modify the sump and oil pump pickup something the aussies recommend doing for long life of the engine to be a rear sump and pickup.

This would give diff clearance and prevent uphill under load running the engine dry (but downhill on engine braking low load is another issue but less damaging).

[hisurf]

Hey i have a VR v6 in mine with the same box on it. I have no bodylift and no mods to the body either. Fits perfect with factory sump. All reg wof and certed

[shortylux]

hi surf has a pretty useful reply for you. I have rn36 with the v6 in it. It used to have a body lift, but then I removed the body lift and lifted the motor (giving me 70-80mm less clearance) still fits under the hood no troubles the radiator is a different story).

So I say no body lift. If you can be arsed chopping the floor then lift the tc a bit. deff go for a rear drop sump if you can make it work.

enjoy the project.

[hisurf]

I can take a couple of photos of engine mounts and my fancy crossmember and post them for you

[Dace]

Thanks guys for all ya advice, but am more confused than ever now

thanks Hisurf, would like some pics of ya setup, at the mo, I am tending toward a 2 inch body, trans and engine lift, mainly casue of the advantage of front wheel clearance (I intend to go to 35's in the future) and TC and crossmember clearance also

Cheers

[shortylux]

if you are prepared to do a little extra work, try it all with out the body lift first. the body lift doesnt help that much with regaurd to fitting 35s as it is the rear of the tyre that contacts the body.
you are better off to caress the fire wall under where you accelerator pedal is (and the same on the passangers side) and redrill your spring pad on the axle where the pin of the leaf pack goes through and move your axle forward 30 odd mm. (you have to drill the bump stop as well if you want to use it) NOW I bet your confused.

Arron.

[Dace]

if you are prepared to do a little extra work, try it all with out the body lift first. the body lift doesnt help that much with regaurd to fitting 35s as it is the rear of the tyre that contacts the body.
you are better off to caress the fire wall under where you accelerator pedal is (and the same on the passangers side) and redrill your spring pad on the axle where the pin of the leaf pack goes through and move your axle forward 30 odd mm. (you have to drill the bump stop as well if you want to use it) NOW I bet your confused.

Arron.

na, had that idea on the plans already, but didn't want to lengthen the base if I could avoid it

[rokhound]

, but didn't want to lengthen the base if I could avoid it

Why on earth not? For an allrounder a longer wheel base will outperform a short on almost all terrain.

[Dace]

, but didn't want to lengthen the base if I could avoid it

Why on earth not? For an allrounder a longer wheel base will outperform a short on almost all terrain.

cause its already ln106 dblcab long

[rangimotors]

you will need to push the axle forward to run good size rubber anyway, mines a double cab as well and its wheel base it longer than factory. I have a low profile cross member and everything is pushed up as high as i can get it, seams to do the trick.

[shortylux]

So you hava a wheel base of (from memory) 112 inches. I can understand you not wanting to go longer, but you are talking about roughly a 1% increase to save your self a massive amount of headaches. Like Rangimotors said, your going to have to do it any way for 35s. (unless you extend the bump stops, but that defeats the purpose)

I had 33s with a 2 inch body lift and they still rubbed. I have pushed my axle forward maybe 4 inches so that I can fit 35s with out a lift or rubbing.

If you put a small amount of effort into tucking your drive train, and you run 35s you will have better underbelly clearance than 90% of vehicles out there anyway. heck, redrill the rear axle mounts and move that forward also if it bothers you enough.

Any way this is all just my own opinion and experience, I wont be the slightest bit offended if you choose to ignore me. Make sure you show us some progress pics as you go.

Arron.

[Dace]

Thanks guys for all ya input, I appreciate all ya feed back, the current plan now is to lift the trans tunnel, engine and trans (leave the body lft out) and push the diff forward when I need to (when I get 35's)

ya can follow progress here

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14913

[Fakey]

I take it you want this all certed etc.
Just be careful when moving your front axle forward.
When you mount your p/steering box you need to allow for the axle being moved or you may find that your tie rod an drag link will rub together on the left hand side.
I have no experience with hiluxs but When I put the 70 series steering box on my 40 the clamps hlding the tierods in just touched .
Fixed it by fitting an SNR pitman arm which is about an inch shorter