LN130 with ADD hub question

Mattman · Post by **Mattman** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:38 pm

Has anyone converted an ADD equipped truck to manual hubs?

After 4wding last weekend the right front hub started to make a noise in 2wd on the way home. It sounded like something grinding/rubbing in the hub.

Pulling over and coming to a dead stop would cause the grinding to go away. Speeding up or slowing down just caused the noise to speed/slow.

It got more and more regular and we had to stop a number of times on the way home.

I haven't pulled apart ADD hubs and checking online shows there is little to go wrong with them.

It seems that for the issue to go away coming to a dead stop indicated something was moving. Checking schematics of the ADD system it doesn't look like there are any parts in the hubs at all really.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Cheers
Matt.

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 9:57 pm

Yes you can fit manual hubs to an ADD truck... but why? ADD is reliable, and pain-free... unless you are replacing the whole diff assy with a non ADD one then I'd leave well enough alone...

Steve

JTop · Post by **JTop** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 11:38 pm

The reason for fitting FWHs to an ADD truck is to reduce CV boot wear and failure on lifted trucks as the axles spin all the time with ADD and the boots don't handle the increased angle for long.
Secondly you can often drive home after breaking something if you disengage the hubs.
J Top

krawlr · Post by **krawlr** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:25 am

just make some blanking plates up like mike did they seem to work well :wink:

or hurry up and get that front end in

Post by **mike** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:40 am

I have the same problem. First i thought it was brake rattle, one piston sized and the other causing uneven wear and making allowing the pad to vibrate, but then a m8 had a similiar noise and it was bushes on the inside of the hubs that dont get lubrication binding to the half shafts.

I'm about to strip mine apart and finally see what it is. The add disconnect works only on the left side, the right side is always attached right through to the diff and spins the spider gears. If you get a locker you will need to disconnect the right side otherwise your whole drive train will spin even with the add disconnected. A point worth notiing, which is what i do, is I just run one hub on the right hand side(cause im lazy) and use the disconnect, but then i dont have a lift to stress the cv boots(which are broken anyway).

Mike

Mattman · Post by **Mattman** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:57 am

Thanks everyone.

So has anyone put manual hubs on an ADD truck? If so are there any tricks? Can standard IFS manual hubs be used?

Cheers
Matt.

Post by **mike** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 5:39 pm

Yeah i have one on my right side and a spare. I think they are the early IFS ones as.

Mike

Mattman · Post by **Mattman** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:09 pm

Thanks Mike.

Easy write up here if anyone needs it.

http://www.yotatech.com/archive/index.php/t-76320.html

Cheers
Matt.

jarps · Post by **jarps** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:24 pm

I had what sounds like same problem with my surf and had to remove the drive flange off the hub to stop it turning the driveshaft to get home. Sounded a bit like a spline slipping and speed up as i did. I replaced the outer cv and the problem was gone.

The australian toyota surf website has how to get the cv shaft out which is fairly easy to do yourself. Even has photos

I also fitted a manual hub to the drivers side but only due to the fact that I fitted a locker, the only advantage I can see to fitting one to both sides is it will allow you to engage low range with only 2 wheel drive. But if i had no locker then i wouldnt bother with either

I think if you change your cv it should be sweet