idle arm probs with 33's on terrano...... no surprise! help.

[hillz]

[coxsy]

http://72.34.32.141/~snakerac/product_i ... 4745dc7d92

[hillz]

[coxsy]

well a guy i know got the front steering mounts custom fabbed up, that fixed his problem but was not cheap

[hillz]

mmm

[kiwipete]

hillz, here you go, this is what you need.











Oh, and please try to type normally, not that horrid shortened text type speech.

[hillz]

bloody wog's

[hillz]

yay made one up looks good.

[kiwipete]

You may need a 1/2 size (read 1/2 height), nut on top of the nut retaining the ball joint to take up extra slack and act as a packer if you get my drift.
Grease the under side of the slider plate as you would do to the steering stops. Don't over tighten the bolts through the chassis unless you have spacer tubes or the like to prevent the chassis being squashed.
You need two of these plates too. One for each side.

[sibainmud]

Hi,

As Pete knows, I have big tires on my 3 door D21. Had a "arts and craft' day at the workshop and slapped up a few solutions. The only drawback is, it's not road legal.
These pics may help. They're all cheap and easy to make up.
I now have to replace the idler arm bushes every three or four outtings





The ball-joints on the drag-link are history.
M16 bolts are a tight fit in 5/8 holes. Made some bronze bushes that pressed into the drag-link. Keeps everything on a nice even plane.
I have spare original parts to fit at warrant time....but SSHHHH!
Hope this helps,

Cheers Simon.

[kbjj]

I've seen pics of guys in the states using a power steer box as an idler arm. Remove input shaft section of box and plate/cover hole, then remove pitman arm and refit at 180 deg. Fileing mount holes is required. You now have a heavy duty idler, but you will still have weak ball joints on tie rods. I do like kiwipete's idea. Or do this

[sibainmud]

I've seen pics of guys in the states using a power steer box as an idler arm. Remove input shaft section of box and plate/cover hole, then remove pitman arm and refit at 180 deg. Fileing mount holes is required. You now have a heavy duty idler, but you will still have weak ball joints on tie rods. I do like kiwipete's idea. Or do this

Been thinking about doing a solid front conversion to a D21

The best thing would be to send some of our RH drive boxes to the states and get LH boxes in return, would save bodging a RH one to fit on the left side.

Cheers.

[kiwipete]

then remove pitman arm and refit at 180 deg.

Erm, isn't it a tapered spline? you wouldn't be able to flip the arm?

[hillz]

[marmel]

From what I have read $5K sounds about right.

By which time of course you could have sold the D21 and purchased something fairly decent with a solid front axle anyway.

Depends on how much you like the D21 I guess.

[hillz]

meh!!!

[darinz]

BUt $5k aint even close!!!!!!

[albundy]

I wa going to SAS my terrano before I rolled it. IMHO I would think this a better option then a heavy truck I went to a WB safari and curse the lack of room and the short wheel base at times. I found the terrano wheel bae perfect. You can use an MQ/MK front axle and do the diff flip, but you need toyota bundera front suspension. Was even toying with the idea of leaves in the front keeping the coils in the rear. If I had the sparte cash i would do it as a project.
Al

[kbjj]

then remove pitman arm and refit at 180 deg.

Erm, isn't it a tapered spline? you wouldn't be able to flip the arm?

Yes it is tapered. I mean the box will be turned 180, so you need to turn arm 180 so it points backwards again.

[kiwipete]

then remove pitman arm and refit at 180 deg.

Erm, isn't it a tapered spline? you wouldn't be able to flip the arm?

Yes it is tapered. I mean the box will be turned 180, so you need to turn arm 180 so it points backwards again.

Fair call, but I wonder if it would be better to get a LHD steering box as the bolt patterns would match up better????

[kbjj]

[/quote]Fair call, but I wonder if it would be better to get a LHD steering box as the bolt patterns would match up better????[/quote]

Would be ideal... sibainmud mentioned swaping some of our RH ones with Americas LH ones.

[turoa]

I like it how terrano's in this thread are called jeeps

[JONO250]

I like it how terrano's in this thread are called jeeps

yeah, terranos arent THAT bad lol...

[sibainmud]

I like it how terrano's in this thread are called jeeps

yeah, terranos arent THAT bad lol...

[JONO250]

BUt $5k aint even close!!!!!!

that yours?? I take it that it's sitting on a safari chassis??

[hillz]

rofl
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVE60zwXx1k

[darinz]

BUt $5k aint even close!!!!!!

that yours?? I take it that it's sitting on a safari chassis??

Yes it is mine.
No Safari chassis as it is basically spaceframed anyway.
Terrano body cut down to xtra cab and intergrated into the chassis and rollcage.
Terrano Chassis as part of the spaceframe to comply with winch challenge rules.
Basically the body, chassis and rollcage are structurally one piece so a little bit mor work than most would think about doing.
GQ drivetrain.
custom 4 link in the rear.
modified GQ 3 link in the front.
coilovers all round.
Front axle and suspension is about $5k without CV's, labour or anything for consumables, steel etc.