HELP - explaining correct positioning for Anti-tramp bar

[SV1K]

Hi Marty
Dont you have a solid 12mm piece of vertical steel welded on to strengthen the spring Perches ?

My perches did that also so I beefed them up.

Cheers Richard

Yeah Howie made some new spring perches for it out of some box sextion with the ends capped off to strengthen them up... not sure what will bend or break next? I've got a pic somewhere but it takes hours to find it on photobucket on my dialup connection

I think Marty is talking about these photo's
Before Howie got it...

After Howie sorted it....

[Fakey]

Have a read thru thishttp://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/384911-antiwrap-bar-location.html

[petefj40]

Have a read thru thishttp://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/384911-antiwrap-bar-location.html

interesting thread. Liked the box section bar work.
Also found the comments re where bars meet at front end where he says his first setup bent. And how both bars should meet at the same point for extra strength. Funny that. Cause mine has bent. So I might get mine made same as his second attempt. Thanks for that fakey.

[MNC]

Have a read thru thishttp://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/384911-antiwrap-bar-location.html

That's an awesome link - Cheers,

I like the look of this option:




But I'm starting to think that for the amount of work involved I might as well just coil the rear as well...

[MNC]

OK, so lets see how well you can translate my crazy thoughts... I've come up with an idea

I have an old trailing arm (from a front 3 link suspension set up) that has a bolt end (instead of an eye end which would suit a shackle).

Plan is to cut the arm to similar shape as below pic and mount to diff in same location and fashion...



For the mount to the cross member I will use a shackle (with swinging shackle mounts on cross member to allow forward and back movement) but weld in a plate across the bottom of the shackle - drill a hole in the plate to mount the end of the trailing arm pin through...



Yes, I know I am an amazing artist

This set up should allow horizontal forward and backward movement (for whole diff moving up and down), and left and right movement (for articulation) but would not allow the pin end of the arm to move up and down - which would stop rotation of the rear diff.

Please someone let me know if my logic is flawed or if I have misunderstood how the above bar works...

[niblik]

sounds good fella..

carry on..

[rokhound]

You will have to brace the snot out of that mounting point on your cross member (all that rotational force has to somewhere).
Have a go and try it, worst case scenario is that it won't work as well as you had hoped, but you will know what to do different next time
Best case, it will be all sweet

[Fakey]

Stumbled upon that thread last night, pretty interesting reading. I quite liked the box section ones, youre idea looks interesting but as Rok said youll have to make the front mount pretty strong, all that force has to go somewhere.
What engine are you goin to run in this beast?

[MNC]

What engine are you goin to run in this beast?

Dirty old 2F

But it's had some love from a previous owner - truck used to be a race truck, this 2F has custom headers and a port & polish, plus who knows what else...

Have dragged the odd V8 and won (ok that should say only one and won)

I'm starting to think it would just be best/easiest to coil the rear again

[Bulletproof]

I'm starting to think it would just be best/easiest to coil the rear again

Probably the best choice.

Do it once and do it right and you won't regret it.

Cheers Richard

[darinz]

Coiling isn't that hard, let's face it Wop manged it and it even works quite well!

[Bulletproof]

OK, so lets see how well you can translate my crazy thoughts... I've come up with an idea

I have an old trailing arm (from a front 3 link suspension set up) that has a bolt end (instead of an eye end which would suit a shackle).

Plan is to cut the arm to similar shape as below pic and mount to diff in same location and fashion...



For the mount to the cross member I will use a shackle (with swinging shackle mounts on cross member to allow forward and back movement) but weld in a plate across the bottom of the shackle - drill a hole in the plate to mount the end of the trailing arm pin through...



Yes, I know I am an amazing artist

This set up should allow horizontal forward and backward movement (for whole diff moving up and down), and left and right movement (for articulation) but would not allow the pin end of the arm to move up and down - which would stop rotation of the rear diff.

Please someone let me know if my logic is flawed or if I have misunderstood how the above bar works...

The big difference between this set up and my set is.

This one has to be real heavy because the leverage pressure is down, otherwise it will bent.

My setup has no downward forces and is a straight pull so can be quite light because nothing can bend.

cheers Richard

[MNC]

I'm starting to think it would just be best/easiest to coil the rear again

Probably the best choice.

Do it once and do it right and you won't regret it.

Cheers Richard

This was the deal sealing comment...

Have purchased an 80 Series diff

[petefj40]

Murphy's Law isn't it.
Ya start talking about the track bar, and then what happens?

Getting it strengthened today.

[petefj40]

If this track bar breaks, I'll eat my hat.

[Engineer]

christ!

[petefj40]

christ!

Just got the track bar back.

Overkill but like I said. It AIN'T gunna break ever again!



Cost. Yes I know I could of had it done cheaper.
But I like HRN's work and attention to detail as well as his support after the work is done.

Labour 5hrs @ $65 = $325
Material $85 in steel.
GST $51
Total = $460

I'm still stoked at the end result.

[Hiluxaholic]

Hey guys interesting thread you got going here, just a question tho, These anti warp bars seem to only on leaf spring setups how come i cant seem to find them for coil setups? reason being is that Ive got a ln130 surf with a suspension lift, but one of my arms on top right of the axle keeps hitting the fuel tank and thought a setup like this mite solve the problem. especially if the arms come off the diff like the one in the picture at the start of this thread. if any one can answer will be much appreciated?

[niblik]

on a coil vehicle, the control arms should be up to task in both strength and placement etc.. the vertical separation between the upper and lower links is the key to providing the anti wrap you've mentioned..

leafs will bend if flexy and under heavy acceleration, hence an anti wrap / traction bar like in this thread..

[Hiluxaholic]

on a coil vehicle, the control arms should be up to task in both strength and placement etc.. the vertical separation between the upper and lower links is the key to providing the anti wrap you've mentioned..

leafs will bend if flexy and under heavy acceleration, hence an anti wrap / traction bar like in this thread..

If I remove the factory arms on top of the axle and fit a tractor top link to the top of the diff would this suffice to get the clearances I require? and get certification?

Thanks

[meatc]

on a coil vehicle, the control arms should be up to task in both strength and placement etc.. the vertical separation between the upper and lower links is the key to providing the anti wrap you've mentioned..

leafs will bend if flexy and under heavy acceleration, hence an anti wrap / traction bar like in this thread..

If I remove the factory arms on top of the axle and fit a tractor top link to the top of the diff would this suffice to get the clearances I require? and get certification?

Thanks

NO

How muhc lift? If its big you may need to get an adjustable panhard road to recenter the diff. Lift shouldn't affect where the upper arm is on compression you may want to have a good look at whats going on under there.

[Hiluxaholic]

on a coil vehicle, the control arms should be up to task in both strength and placement etc.. the vertical separation between the upper and lower links is the key to providing the anti wrap you've mentioned..

leafs will bend if flexy and under heavy acceleration, hence an anti wrap / traction bar like in this thread..

If I remove the factory arms on top of the axle and fit a tractor top link to the top of the diff would this suffice to get the clearances I require? and get certification?

Thanks

NO

How muhc lift? If its big you may need to get an adjustable panhard road to recenter the diff. Lift shouldn't affect where the upper arm is on compression you may want to have a good look at whats going on under there.

lift is about 150mm in the rear.Arm is sweet when compressed but when extended it hits fuel tank. that's why i was thinking of shifting it. to help with articulation. and thought this setup mite provide best option.

[niblik]

if it hits the fuel tank on artic, somethings up like meatc said.. sort that, not the type of link or joints used etc..

where does it hit the fuel tank? on the side or something? like mentioned prior, could be the panhard?

mod the tank... (read : BFH)

[Smurf]

Pan hard rod. As you have suspension lift/raised the vehicle it pulls the diff over to passengers side. so the top arm sits closer to the tank. when you drop a wheel (extend the suspension) the arm moves closer again to the tank and rubs.
A longer pan hard rod that allows the diff to re centre itself will fix the problem, or a FBH to the tank. Is it the tank or the tank skid plate that it is hitting, if only the skid plate bend it in a bit, out of the way

[Hiluxaholic]

Pan hard rod. As you have suspension lift/raised the vehicle it pulls the diff over to passengers side. so the top arm sits closer to the tank. when you drop a wheel (extend the suspension) the arm moves closer again to the tank and rubs.
A longer pan hard rod that allows the diff to re centre itself will fix the problem, or a FBH to the tank. Is it the tank or the tank skid plate that it is hitting, if only the skid plate bend it in a bit, out of the way

I don't think pan hard rod is to blame but i do need source a adjustable one but here is a pic not of my truck but you see what im taking about You see the disconnected upper control rod and underneath is the fuel tank and when the left wheel moves up into the guard the right wheel moves down when going through a rut or hole, when it moves down the upper control arm hits the tank and restricts articulation. as you see my problem. so hence wanting to move arm out of the way and having a on top of diff setup similar to a 4 point system from trailgear
Hope this makes sense.

[niblik]

source an adjustable one? why? that'll just change other factors like anti squat and pinion angle..

the 4 link will be thru the middle of your tank, yes? just mod the tank.. its only nippin the seam on the back of tank, yeah?

[Hiluxaholic]

source an adjustable one? why? that'll just change other factors like anti squat and pinion angle..

and er.... and this pic is where.......?

lol sorry half pie kill it 1st try lol

[Hiluxaholic]

source an adjustable one? why? that'll just change other factors like anti squat and pinion angle..

the 4 link will be thru the middle of your tank, yes? just mod the tank.. its only nippin the seam on the back of tank, yeah?

Yeah If i used all 4 links it wouldn't work but my theory was that if i got rid of stock control arms and used only 2 of the links from off the diff to the chassis then it would be a better setup? and still be strong enough to pass cert? fingers crossed. Don't really want to be hacking away or bashing my tank to fit if i can help it, seen ruptured tank of a track before something i want to ovoid weakening

[Smurf]

Do you rear wheels stick outside the body? If so, do they stick out the same amount each side?

[Hiluxaholic]

Do you rear wheels stick outside the body? If so, do they stick out the same amount each side?

Yea they do stick out, drivers side is about 10mm wider, so looking at correcting it with adjusty panhard.