Rear Disk Conversion for the Lemon
FJ-80 Master Cylinder
The stock Hilux and Ithink Surf is tha same, master cylinder are designed for discs brakes up front and drums in the rear. It does not have a residual valve for use with rear disc brakes. Without a rear residual valve in the system the rear disc pads move away from teh disc after braking. This causes excess peddle travel the next time you step on the brakes. To solve this use a FJ80 brake master cylinder that is equipped with two residual valves, one for the front system and one for the rear. It's 1" bore size is larger than older 13/16" bore cylinders for more fluid volume, and bolts straight in
The stock Hilux and Ithink Surf is tha same, master cylinder are designed for discs brakes up front and drums in the rear. It does not have a residual valve for use with rear disc brakes. Without a rear residual valve in the system the rear disc pads move away from teh disc after braking. This causes excess peddle travel the next time you step on the brakes. To solve this use a FJ80 brake master cylinder that is equipped with two residual valves, one for the front system and one for the rear. It's 1" bore size is larger than older 13/16" bore cylinders for more fluid volume, and bolts straight in
'85 Hilux crawler, 3rz, duals, 4.7's, 4.88's, ARB's, 30 spline Longfields, 6 stud SNR4x4 Histeer, Airshocks up front, coiled rear, 40" Iroks.
^^^this shite is all about to change....^^^
021 273 9942
jafa@inspire.net.nz
^^^this shite is all about to change....^^^
021 273 9942
jafa@inspire.net.nz
The 80-series master cylinder is a good option... I have one I was going to use in my project d-cab but never got round to doing it in the end... bloody expensive tho. Brand spanking new one - will sell it for $180 if anyone wants it.
As Jafa said, the residual valve is the important bit... as the pads heat up they get further and further away after each braking manouvre and so the more you need em, the less they feel like they are working...
Steve
As Jafa said, the residual valve is the important bit... as the pads heat up they get further and further away after each braking manouvre and so the more you need em, the less they feel like they are working...
Steve
Jafa wrote:FJ80 brake master cylinder that is equipped with two residual valves, one for the front system and one for the rear. It's 1" bore size is larger than older 13/16" bore cylinders for more fluid volume, and bolts straight in
Cool, easy as

Thanks guys.
I'm just well happy to be rid of that drum brake headache. 3 muddy bush trips, or across and back over Thompson's and the h/brake would be usless and the pedal would be crap too

The volume is similar between the drum and the disk pistons so there shouldn't be any issues.... (for the maxima disks)
I'm gona have to sort something a bit bigger for my disks as I'm a 4 pot
haven't worried to much about the master yet ..... found the americans use the surf one as its a bit bigger than the Lux one
Cheers Reece
I'm gona have to sort something a bit bigger for my disks as I'm a 4 pot

Cheers Reece
Back when you could not get disc brakes for L/Cs, i was casting and machineing disc converstions. I always removed the propostion valve that supplyed oil to the front discs. This prevented the piston from haveing a slight pressure on the pads. They seamed to work spot on. Looks like I was wrong in doing this. Judgeing by the earlier info.
"Oldblue" Electric to Manual Hub Conversion's 03 5447586
I think oldblue is correct, and you guys may have your wires crossed. I'm pretty sure drums use a residual pressure valve to stop the return springs pulling the shoes back in.
Found this too:
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/residvalve.php
Ben
Found this too:
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/residvalve.php
Ben
and its far easier to buy a supra master cylinder as they bolt up the same as a Hilux and are the correct bore size. If the sizes are not corect you can end up in a pile of poo. eg..( in very simple terms ).The valve is there to keep the cup seals pressured .and expanded , other wise they may leak
Large bore size on master cylinder = slow brakes but greater holding power
Small bore size = fast brakes but less holding strength
A small varation in bore size will make a difference as its really the piston area that matters along with stroke etc etc.
Has anyone doen the Subaru front caliper conversion on the rear of the lux?
If so, what master cylinder did you use?
I have vented lux/crusier discs that have been skimed too 18mm thick (too match the sub standard discs) and an "86 Crown master (from 6m donor car). The master is 15/16. which seemsto be a decent size, but I can't get the pedal to work near the the top. ie it travels way too far.
Would a 1" bore master be the go or not ?
The sub calipers have a decent size pot ( about 50mm daiameter) so I,m guessing that a decent master will be needed. But if anuone else has this conversion running could you please let me know what master did you use?
Cheers guys.

If so, what master cylinder did you use?

I have vented lux/crusier discs that have been skimed too 18mm thick (too match the sub standard discs) and an "86 Crown master (from 6m donor car). The master is 15/16. which seemsto be a decent size, but I can't get the pedal to work near the the top. ie it travels way too far.

Would a 1" bore master be the go or not ?

The sub calipers have a decent size pot ( about 50mm daiameter) so I,m guessing that a decent master will be needed. But if anuone else has this conversion running could you please let me know what master did you use?
Cheers guys.
Ugly is a state of mind..... and the state of my truck!
The maxima conversion is still working real good on the standard master cyl. so far
I think because the maxima caliper has only one small piston along with the handbrake being in built (keeping the piston from retracting too much) the master has enough volume to make it work ok. If a caliper with more than one piston or larger volume then the master would struggle I think.
I've removed the load sensing proportioning valve also. Drum brakes in good condition have more brute force than discs so excessive lockups aren't an issue after a disc conversion (especially with a smaller type of disc caliper)
Note: both conversions I've done are on trailered trucks, not road trucks.

I think because the maxima caliper has only one small piston along with the handbrake being in built (keeping the piston from retracting too much) the master has enough volume to make it work ok. If a caliper with more than one piston or larger volume then the master would struggle I think.
I've removed the load sensing proportioning valve also. Drum brakes in good condition have more brute force than discs so excessive lockups aren't an issue after a disc conversion (especially with a smaller type of disc caliper)
Note: both conversions I've done are on trailered trucks, not road trucks.
Just a little thiny, If your only replaceing the drums on the front axle ,with disc's , you'll need to fit an (inline Brake proportioning valve). On the rear brake line.Only.
I used to fit HQ Holden one's. This helps to progresivly reduce the line pressure to the rear drums, Helps to reduce rear brake lockup.
Don't confuse a Load Proporstion Valve with a Brake Proporstioning Valve.
I used to fit HQ Holden one's. This helps to progresivly reduce the line pressure to the rear drums, Helps to reduce rear brake lockup.
Don't confuse a Load Proporstion Valve with a Brake Proporstioning Valve.
"Oldblue" Electric to Manual Hub Conversion's 03 5447586
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Back when you could not get disc brakes for L/Cs, i was casting and machineing disc converstions. I always removed the propostion valve that supplyed oil to the front discs. This prevented the piston from haveing a slight pressure on the pads. They seamed to work spot on. Looks like I was wrong in doing this. Judgeing by the earlier info.
Remove the word : proposrtion valve and read it as Residual valve.
Back when you could not get disc brakes for L/Cs, i was casting and machineing disc converstions. I always removed the propostion valve that supplyed oil to the front discs. This prevented the piston from haveing a slight pressure on the pads. They seamed to work spot on. Looks like I was wrong in doing this. Judgeing by the earlier info.
Remove the word : proposrtion valve and read it as Residual valve.
"Oldblue" Electric to Manual Hub Conversion's 03 5447586
- NFORCA
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I now have a set of Maxima callipers for sale. They wont work on my truck (my other truck - see "other projects" thread)
$20 if any one wants them, including freight nationwide.
What other callipers have people used? preferably something that sits closer to the face of the wheel, as the maxima ones went too far back for my purpose.
cheers
$20 if any one wants them, including freight nationwide.
What other callipers have people used? preferably something that sits closer to the face of the wheel, as the maxima ones went too far back for my purpose.
cheers
- Crash bandicoot
- Hard Yaka
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Re:
NFORCA wrote:I now have a set of Maxima callipers for sale. They wont work on my truck (my other truck - see "other projects" thread)
$20 if any one wants them, including freight nationwide.
What other callipers have people used? preferably something that sits closer to the face of the wheel, as the maxima ones went too far back for my purpose.
cheers
I don't know if the axle assembly between the 2wd and 4wd LN56/Rn56(1985) toyota hilux are the same but I used Subaru Legacy brake calipers as they are the same brand toyota used on the front at the time. (asin) from memory i think.
also used ford falcon rotors.
Waiter...there is a drought in my glass.
Re: Rear Disk Conversion for the Lemon
Holy thread resurrection Batman! 

'85 Hilux crawler, 3rz, duals, 4.7's, 4.88's, ARB's, 30 spline Longfields, 6 stud SNR4x4 Histeer, Airshocks up front, coiled rear, 40" Iroks.
^^^this shite is all about to change....^^^
021 273 9942
jafa@inspire.net.nz
^^^this shite is all about to change....^^^
021 273 9942
jafa@inspire.net.nz
Re: Rear Disk Conversion for the Lemon
Jafa wrote:Holy thread resurrection Batman!
Grave diggers!!!