40mm body lift, winch bar, snorkle advice NH

[MarkT]

Guys
A couple of questions.

Ive got a pair of EFS 100kg (+40mm lift) springs and a pair of their torsion bars (to replace the spongy old factory ones). Should be able to get say 25mm at the front. Still expecting a bit of a wedge (the front seems to naturally be 40-50mm lower then the front, however will find out if that remains once they are fitted). The 40mm lift I want to throw at the body should get me enough clearance to run up to 35" which works for what Im after with my truck.
questions:
1: Has anyone done a 'tapered body lift'...ie 10 at rear, 20back mount 30 front mount, 40 firnt most(noting it would nees a bit of calculations to get the correct hights for each mount to the remove the natural taper based on the mount spacing)...
2: If a straight 40+40mm body lift is fitted, what are we doing with shocks. I have the 3 stage electrical controlled Bilsteins that actually work (as well as the hight adjustment pump system). I'm pretty sure the shocks at that lift will be the restritive point, any ideas about that?
3: front winch bar....Anyone got photos (prefer drawings) that they have had made....to suit somthing like an EP9 and incorporating recovery points
4: non plastic snorkle (3.0 petrol)...same as above. also, ideas about mounting brackets to the guard and pillar...

Cheers Mark....

[NJV6]

You don't need a tapered bodylift, you are aware the front height is adjustable?

If you are putting a 50mm lift in the front then you can adjust your front bars to suit a 50mm lift as well so it sits level as mine does.

Where are you located and why do you want to run 35's? 35's are a big tyre for a Paj with the way its low range gearing is - ie poor!

If you replace torsion bars then you will loose your height adjustability. the shocks can stay for now - they willl suffice, but you can get a longer one in there at some stage.

Why a non plastic snorkel? Unless the others have had heaps of time put into them they look terrible.

[MarkT]

What I was hoping was to tweak the torsions to still retain 1/3 droop, and had figured that with a flat body lift I would still end up nose down....dont really plan on 35's to be honest, 33's will be the main ones run...
Whats the issue with changing the torsions (ie why would the height adjustment switch not work then?)...

The snorkle was about bush bashing....ive seen the hammering steel ones take and figured that a plastic one would last about 1/2 hour...

cheers

[Camshaft]

I put a 40mmbody lift in. I didn't have to bend the Hi/low gear lever as I did on my other paj with a 50mm body lift. Just a small trim on the driveshaft tunnel.
I run 33's offroad on beadlocked 15X8 rims.
I found the best suspension mod was removing the rear swaybar. Gave heaps more articulation with the restriction being the handbrake lines.
I lifted the front torsion bars just enough to clear the tyres and lift the extra weight of the winchbar & winch and get a slight scuffing on hard lock under compression - running standard springs and shocks.

[adimw2]

I put a 40mmbody lift in. I didn't have to bend the Hi/low gear lever as I did on my other paj with a 50mm body lift. Just a small trim on the driveshaft tunnel.
I run 33's offroad on beadlocked 15X8 rims.
I found the best suspension mod was removing the rear swaybar. Gave heaps more articulation with the restriction being the handbrake lines.
I lifted the front torsion bars just enough to clear the tyres and lift the extra weight of the winchbar & winch and get a slight scuffing on hard lock under compression - running standard springs and shocks.

any pictures of your rig?