V8 Land Rover project

[mike]

Where's the radiator going to go? I suppose thats why when ya see series rovers that have been converted to V8 they have defender/stage 3 front ends on them.

Yip but series 2's and 3's look cooler so the radiator had to go on the back. I'm planning on mounting it inside the roll bar down low against the back. I'm going to try the stock disco radiator with some serious fans with a wire mesh guard around it to stop it getting munted. If it it overheats then ill splash out and get a massive radiator.

no way, i like the 90 front end way better. the old rangie radiators fit nicely in the gap, move the front grill bit out and get an x army bonnet. never had any over heating issues in mine, but then i guess i never fitted a temp gauge to worry about it hmmm nor an oil pressure gauge either - never had to worry about that either

[niblik]

Where's the radiator going to go? I suppose thats why when ya see series rovers that have been converted to V8 they have defender/stage 3 front ends on them.

Yip but series 2's and 3's look cooler so the radiator had to go on the back. I'm planning on mounting it inside the roll bar down low against the back. I'm going to try the stock disco radiator with some serious fans with a wire mesh guard around it to stop it getting munted. If it it overheats then ill splash out and get a massive radiator.

seein as your set up is like this...


why dont ya move the front forward a tad to make room for the radiator? works for vomitron... to make up the space where ya move the bonnet forward to match, ya can put mesh in at the firewall end to create more venting.. like so.............


p.s.. anyone know where to get the rubber bonnet stays ya can see on the bonnet of vomitron?

[mike]

supercheap - thats where i got mine from

[oldyella]

Yea both moving the middle bit forward or putting a 90 front on were considered and if it overheats it probably will be reconsidered. At the mean time Im pretty happy with it looking how it does and putting the radiator on the back.

I called the VIN place and it will be re-registered as a "1959 S2a Landrover" and will be a "classic" haha.

Here are some photos of the break booster assembly which combines a series 3 booster bracket and a disco booster.

[oldyella]

Has anyone here run a V8 with a rear mounted radiator? It would be interesting to know some thoughts on weather overheating will be an issue.

[Furgus]

Has anyone here run a V8 with a rear mounted radiator? It would be interesting to know some thoughts on weather overheating will be an issue.

Only in the rally truck......that's fine for most stuff we do but when driving between tracks at Pureora it definitely gets a bit hot!!

[oldyella]

What truck is that? Not the 90 is it? I would be interested to know what engine, radiator and fans your using...

[oldyella]

Castor correction bushes pressed in. They fit back in the truck and you can't really tell the difference but they should make it drive properly.

[oldyella]

Bought these old school 16" rims for $250.

Should be ideal

[niblik]

tyres with em? the old rovers lurve sat style tyres..

i've seen mikes thing out wheel a few buggies before running similar..

[oldyella]

They come with the sat's but they're knackered. The 32" simex's should be on these rims this week.

I think sat's would be pretty mint and I will probably end up trying some out once the truck is up and running.

[oldyella]

Got the wheels on the landy. Looks waaaay better. Should have some normal size wheel nuts tomorrow to

[oldyella]

Got some pics of the LR in the day and put some new wheel nuts on. Thanks Rex!

[lilpigzuk]

all good Pete. looking

[oldyella]

Rear bumpstops fitted. I had to drop them 3.5 inches to stop the wheels hitting the deck. Should do the trick.

[oldyella]

Bit of an update. Sorry about the average photos

I got pissed off with how the motor sat so I shifted it back 6 inches. I now have 6 inches to fit a radiator and fan in the front.


I have also mounted the power steering box properly with some 6mm plate and 3mm plate.

Then I got a Dunedin certifier Graeme Fitzpatrick around to have a look at it to let me know anything he wanted changed.

Because the steering box is in front of the front axle, the steering shaft needs a collapsible section. Iv got a plan devised to solve the problem and ill put a picture up when Iv got it sorted.

Nothing else needed revised which is sweet.

Then I got pissed off with how much I had to drop the rear bump stops to stop the wheels hitting the deck. Solution. Flatdeck. I should be able to wack at least an inch off the rear bump stops.







As an added bonus, going to a flat deck I should be able to fit a motorbike on the back!

[niblik]

mate... now know not to piss ya off...

did ya think to keep her stocko lookin and perhaps tub the rear? maybe create some larger wheel wells and tub the shit out of it..

where does it hit the rear tub? on the upper or inner wall?

i like the look of the stock rover.. old school mongrel.

[oldyella]

Pretty keen to be able to fit a motorbike on the back with more up travel.

The other issue is mega huge flares are required to keep the wheels inside the body which means I would have to do some pretty difficult bar work around the deck.

All excuses because I'm keen to put a flat deck on it.

The standard deck can always go back on if I get pissed off

Hopefully I don't get halfway through doing the deck and change my mind

[oldyella]

Getting an idea of how high the flat deck needs to be. Doesn't need to be any higher than a standard one really which is good.





Buggering around with bumpstop heights. The rear bumpstops are lowered 2inches off the chassis and the front ones will need to be 3inches and trim that bit of guard out of the way.

[oldyella]

2 inch front bump stop dropery thingys so the diff head doesn't smash in to the engine.



And with them tacked in place



Since I moved the motor back 6 inches. I had to "re-profile" I suppose you would call it, the middle cross member so the front driveshaft could fit in.

This is it part way through



And this is it mainly done. I have to put some gussets on it which it why its ground flat.



Few bits to tinker on over the week then the whole thing is getting welded next weekend. Its about time.

[oldyella]

Thinking of getting this radiator. Its 530mm high x 515mm wide x 42mm thick which is enough to keep a 351 Windsor V8 cool in a Ford XR. Pretty sure it will fit. Was just wondering if 42mm thick will be enough to stop it overheating, or does the slow going off road make a big difference. The 3.9L is around about 1800cc less as well...



http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Radiators-cooling-systems/auction-328729994.htm

Any thoughts?

[lincooln]

I would say it would be fine. From what I have been told by a few people the thicker the radiator the less efficient it is, in saying that if its too thin its not all that good either. This is cause the air the passes through it cools the front but by the time its at the back its hot and not cooling much. So really its trying to find a good balance.

[oldyella]

Might just make a decent shroud to get some good air flow when going slow...

[oldyella]

PIMP MY RIDE

[kaney]

Looking real good there pete

[oldyella]

Colour almost looks black in these photos but its pretty much british racing green

Hired South Air's new paint shop. Had extractor fans and lights everywhere. Job ended up looking better than what I was planning

Still waiting on chassis and bulkhead to get back from sand blasters its been there two weeks and im getting impatient....

[Landynut]

that looks awesome.... can i borrow their paint shed too? :p

should be sweet with that radiator, aluminium heat exchangers are waaaay more efficient than the old copper buggers...

[oldyella]

I had one of South Air's employees/my flatmate doing the painting and he tee'd up the paint shop. He's painted a few air craft and owns and painted that blue S3 landrover at the start of the thread. He's leaving South Air this week to go be a farm hand because he just wants to drive landrovers around and go to the pub

[juz]

Still waiting on chassis and bulkhead to get back from sand blasters its been there two weeks and im getting impatient....

Sounds like every blaster around Dunedin!
Overcharge and dont like working....

[oldyella]

The pimping continues. One gloss black chassis back from the sand blaster. You wouldn't know the chassis is from 1959 No rust blown out by the blasting which is good.



Will need to put something up the guts of it for future rust proofing Fish oil? It stinks but works.... Any other products that people know of? I think there is a CRC wax type product thats not bad?

Then slapped the diffs under it and chucked the motor in.