V8 Land Rover project

[Landynut]

poking as much fish oil up it as you can, as regularly as you like is the best cure-all I know of.... yeah it stinks a bit but that goes away in a few days, the rust protection remains for months

I try to give my LR's chassis a good going over with fish oil inside and out every 6-12 months, would drop down to every 3 if i were using it at the beach often..... bloody miracle stuff, i swear my chassis is looking cleaner of rust than when i bought it 10 years ago !

that looks absolutely mint mate, I wish I had the money to pimp my landy like that

[DieselBoy]

that looks awesome.... can i borrow their paint shed too? :p

should be sweet with that radiator, aluminium heat exchangers are waaaay more efficient than the old copper buggers...

Alloy radiators are not my pick for an off road truck.

They are brittle and fragile. The tanks crack and the cores come apart from the tanks through vibration over time from off road use.

You can't repair damaged cores or tanks properly as the core is just glued to the tanks with a resin, and you obviously can't solder up damaged tubes etc.

They also don't like being hit with with a water blaster.

Much better to stick with a heavy duty copper brass radiator IMO.

Copper Brass radiators are more efficient.

Gio have a chat with your local radiator repairer, they'l put you straight

[Heath]

I recall a lanolin rust preventer some where (Lanotec maybe?).

Doesn't smell like fish but like sheep. You may get followed by southlanders or Aussies until the smell dies off

[NJV6]

You may get followed by southlanders

Yes, we have noticed you getting closer

Wanting to join in the fun!!

[oldyella]

better stick to the fish oil

Does anyone know where to get little clips to secure break lines to a chassis. The certifier was sayn you could get heaps of them for 10 bucks or something.

Also, I need heaps of seals for around the doors, sliding windows, air conditioning vents, around the back of the roof but im not sure the easiest way to go about it. Any ideas? I'm sure para rubber will have some of the stuff I need but all the old seals are long gone so I don't really have anything to compare with...

[Landynut]

:shock: better stick to the fish oil

Does anyone know where to get little clips to secure break lines to a chassis. The certifier was sayn you could get heaps of them for 10 bucks or something.

Also, I need heaps of seals for around the doors, sliding windows, air conditioning vents, around the back of the roof but im not sure the easiest way to go about it. Any ideas? I'm sure para rubber will have some of the stuff I need but all the old seals are long gone so I don't really have anything to compare with...

as far as seals around the doors, heres an example to help you find something similar (probly 1/5th the price at para rubber....) http://www.landroverparts.co.nz/prod-328/ its easy enough to rivet them on, the crimp-on type wont work as well...

for brakes i'd try a brake specialist, pitstop or something like that.... fairly cheap things to get, i've got dozens of em floating around somewhere..

[oldyella]

Another question im sure someone on here would have tried. Flairing steel breaklines with a flairing tool like this.

Is it possible and certifiable or does a breakshop need to do it?



I ripped out all the breaklines and fittings from the discovery so all I need to do is shorten a few lines, buy a couple of tee's, re-flare the line and hey presto, break system will be complete.

[niblik]

it'll be fine chap...

[ClassicCruiserSpares]

It should be fine as long as they are double flares you put on the pipes, your pic doesnt show the little collar that does he first flare.

[oldyella]

It should be fine as long as they are double flares you put on the pipes, your pic doesnt show the little collar that does he first flare.

I had a look and some of the disco brake lines and some have a straight flare type and some have the double flare type. There was a "brake line" flare tool for sale on TM. It was second hand and had "cracked but welded up" bit but looked like it did have some other bits to do the double flair type with it so might get that.

[oldyella]

[juz]

Hey Looking good mate! that flaring tool in the pic wont do double flairing, (same as mine) got a mechanic mate to do mine with his works double flairing tool, Dunedins brakes specialists (who I wont name) wouldnt flair my brake lines for me and were very unhelpful to me for anything brakes so I get brake stuff from Racebrakes in Auck,Very helpful guys! my 2c

[oldyella]

Put some panels on the LR for a bit of visual motovation.

Starting to think about what kind of fuel pump I need because the old one was an in tank type and I was going to put an in-line type in.

Need to sort out a location for a battery as well. Engine bay is pretty tight so it might have to sit under the flatdeck im thinking

[Heath]

You may get followed by southlanders

Yes, we have noticed you getting closer

Wanting to join in the fun!!

Just so happens I have new gumboots too...

[oldyella]

DUMP PIPES





I know the weldn is shite it was done with an arc lol. Just something until iv got it driving.

[Landynut]

have you got dual fuel tanks under it ? if not then you've got a spare under-seat compartment for dual batteries

[oldyella]

Nope no room under there... got duel tanks. What would be a good inline fuel pump suited to the 3.9? I don't know much about them but I think some are for carbs and some are for injection but whats the difference?

Im just after something good value that will do the job.

[safaripete]

Nope no room under there... got duel tanks. What would be a good inline fuel pump suited to the 3.9? I don't know much about them but I think some are for carbs and some are for injection but whats the difference?

Im just after something good value that will do the job.

low presure pump for carbys

high presure for injection some say VL commodore fuel pumps are pretty good and can handle 500hp maybe worth a look?

[Landynut]

if its naturally aspirated then the cheapest electric fuel pump will probably do just fine.. my one is about 10 years old, reliable as, cost about $80 and would take 20+ minutes to fill up a 20 litre drum... you dont need any psi unless your boosting my clear fuel filter is always half full and the thirsty 202 is never starved...

maybe you could just have a marine battery box fixed forward on the deck ? battery is the kind of thing u sometimes need to get to asap, whether it be for a jump start 1/2 way across a river or when the starter lead gets cracked or melted and starts welding itself to the chassis...... I always leave the negative terminal loose enuff that I can wriggle it off in a hurry

oh and I think its a good idea to plumb your in-line pump off the side of the tank at the very bottom, and have the pump down there by the g/box crossmember somewhere... unless you can get self-priming fuel pumps ? either that or dont run it dry

I'm no expert tho, someone else will know more about it than me.. I'm just going by the setup on my landy, and it works.. if it aint broke, dont fix it

[oldyella]

Hmmm, a VL fuel pump shouldn't be to hard to come by. As for the self priming thats something I hadn't thought of.

I was planning to take the fuel out from each tank (using standard pickups) to a T, then from the T to the fuel pump and do the same for the fuel return.

I suppose the lower I install it the pump and the lower the fuel lines the better it will prime. I might just see if that works, otherwise I might have to get a boat squigy primer thing in each line to the T for when i run out of gas.

Im eying up under the passenger guard for putting the battery as an alternative to under the deck. I have to have the snokel and airbox setup in the same area but might be manageable to fit it all in...

[noexitroad]

if you want to know anything about landys, up here in the north island we talk to marcelle and vicki (i think thats her name) at mamaku 4wd, he may be able to help you with your fuel pump issue, but remember he only does landys and probably gets sick of people trying to pick his brains and then not buy thru him. his parts are reasonably priced and service is great. if you want his number try to google him. he will have everything you need, all you need is a visa card

[91Rangie]

I was planning to take the fuel out from each tank (using standard pickups) to a T, then from the T to the fuel pump and do the same for the fuel return.

I would run fuel solenoids so you can use 1 tank at a time like they do on the army Stage 1 otherwise you run the risk of emptying 1 and over filling the other.

[oldyella]

Well i bought a bosh inline fuel pump out of a VL running an RB30 for 90 big ones. Good for 380hp apparently so should be fine and looks like a piece of piss to sort out.



I have thought about using solenoids and making the tanks switchable. Would need two so I could switch the fuel return line to the correct tank. Then I realized I would need two fuel gauges or switch the fuel sender...

Then I though about running two tanks and draining one and not the other and I figured they would equalize, I might be wrong, unless you drove along the side of a hill for ages and, only need one gauge, if it doesn't work or is annoying, no big deal to put solenoids later.

At the moment the goal it to get the old tart fired up so I can see what those dump pipes sounds like

[oldyella]

if you want to know anything about landys, up here in the north island we talk to marcelle and vicki (i think thats her name) at mamaku 4wd, he may be able to help you with your fuel pump issue, but remember he only does landys and probably gets sick of people trying to pick his brains and then not buy thru him. his parts are reasonably priced and service is great. if you want his number try to google him. he will have everything you need, all you need is a visa card

Thanks for the advice, Rex on the forum has been providing me with all my bits and peices. Iv got aftermarket indicators, parklights, and stop and tail lights in the post at a suprisingly low cost

[oldyella]

[mike]

Well i bought a bosh inline fuel pump out of a VL running an RB30 for 90 big ones. Good for 380hp apparently so should be fine and looks like a piece of piss to sort out.



I have thought about using solenoids and making the tanks switchable. Would need two so I could switch the fuel return line to the correct tank. Then I realized I would need two fuel gauges or switch the fuel sender...

Then I though about running two tanks and draining one and not the other and I figured they would equalize, I might be wrong, unless you drove along the side of a hill for ages and, only need one gauge, if it doesn't work or is annoying, no big deal to put solenoids later.

At the moment the goal it to get the old tart fired up so I can see what those dump pipes sounds like

i run an old supra fuel pump sometimes it struggles a bit keeping up when im driving it hard but ti does the job.

I had dual tanks for years. just had a shitty old pump that would pump one from the other and all you needed to do was really run it for a few seconds so it primed the line and then as you said it leveled out. System worked great.

you are going to loooooooove your new rover with the 3.9 in it. hauls arse!!!!!!!

[niblik]

v8 + rover = gooderested!

[oldyella]

Thanks for the pointers with the fuel tanks mike. Really looking forward to getting this thing finally drivable...

Bought a late series 2a front grill today just to stay with the series 2 theme... Its in the post but for those that don't know they look like this



People must have been putting V8s in landrovers for years Good bastards

[moonhopper]

Yes he is a great fella, I have ordered replacement pedal rubbers of him yesterday for my series 2, bloody cheap to replace as well.
by the way great job on the landy, very nice work. I hope mine comes up half as good as yours.

[/quote] Thanks for the advice, Rex on the forum has been providing me with all my bits and peices. Iv got aftermarket indicators, parklights, and stop and tail lights in the post at a suprisingly low cost [/quote]

[oldyella]

Got all the lights back in, the grill and the much important landrover badge on.



Got the extra fuel filler pop rivited in. Still need to make up a custom fuel filler pipe. Planning on making this out a bit of steel pipe and have two rubber bits (made from existing rubber pipe) to connect it to the tank and filler.



Got the gauges and ignition switch in, painted the outside of the gauges in pimping silver. Still a few extra switches and the like to go in there yet. Computer still needs mounted in a suitable watertight box.



Mounted the power steering tank and ignition coil. Need to get a new set of HT leads...



I wasn't sure what to do with the air conditioning pipes while I'm not using them. Further down the track I was thinking about on board air but can i just cut them back a stick a bolts with hose clamps in the rubber pipes for the mean time or will that upset the pump?



And that's about all for the meantime...