VIOLENT SHAKING OF STEERING WHEEL PT2

[aussie_male1au]

A lot of you replied when I posted the above and thought I'd let you know have taken everything onboard, do appreciate the tips.
In saying that, thought I'd share something I found that may be a factor. Have just raised the front to take off the wheels to have a good look under (if anyone says that I did during work hours I'll deny it ) when I discovered something interesting.
Left hand front wheel wasn't spinning freely, so with my limited knowledge, googled it to see why it wasn't
Apparently (for those that are in the same boat as me and learning) the brake caliper has seized (which would explain the pull to the left) and can cause the shudders.
Question now is how hard is it for a numptie to fix it or is it best to get it done professionally. Personally would like to be shown how to do it correctly as learn better by a hands on approach but would need someone that is recommeded from here to show me.
Thanks again for all the feedback last time
Bryan

[muddyhilux]

um if your reasonably confident they're not too hard to unseize usually,depending on if its just started or not that is,just did this on my dads pajero the other week

1 jack up the truck on particular side and put in axle stand
2 undo bolts holding on calliper then lever off
3 usually being jammed its a screwdriver between the dics and calliper
4 remove pads then press the brake pedal a couple of times,it mite need a few more if its really seized
5 then with couple of screwdrivers or crowbars or a piece of 10mm steel plate with high tensile bolt through it push the piston back into housing all the way
6 repeat steps 5 and 6 3 to 4 time until it gets really easy to push back in

and then reassemble in reverse order

normally unless they're heavily seized this will be enough to fix it,and being that you've been driving it like my dad had this should cure the problem

note though

after he did one side it turned out the other side was also seized but not as bad so had to do both sides

hope that helps

[getsum]

it may also be very beneficial to allow the piston to come out so you can inspect the bore and piston for pitting..
give it a good clean with some brakeclean and put it back together.

use some rubber grease to lube up the caliper slides aswell.

do both sides,and then bleed them up,give the fluid a flush out not just a bleed..

they should come up good..
check the pads and see if theyr even left to right..if they arent get some new ones in there,make sure they havent wedged either...

its not a hard job,just take your time and clean everything with brakeclean...

have fun

[Moriarty]

Had the same thing with Ugly, 80K is great, 100 is fkn HORRIBLE and 110 is great again. Pressed on the brake gently, and it subsided a bit, crept home and jacked it up and put a bar under the wheel and VIOLA!!! the big double base said, you gotta fkt wheel bearing there, !st Violin!! Round to Stinky who had been "guarding" my spare hubs and did the wheel brg up a bit. Suck Cess!!

[aussie_male1au]

As per another post, was unable to change my tie-rod ends however did change over the brake pads. One piston was stuck out and took a bit of "persuasion" to get it working again. After fixing it and the brake pads, put everything together and went for a test drive..NO SHAKING
Slight pull to the left so will get an alignment done as well. Almost as easy to drive as my GQ though nowhere as quiet
Thanks for the brake down on doing the brakes, after doing it, don't know what the fuss was as it's pretty basic ONCE you know how to

[Moriarty]

Yestiddy, I trundled around off to meet Rob who works out of his van doing tyre stuff.
He dismounted the tyres from the rims and pointed to a huge buildup of dirt, rubber and assorted shit trapt under the bead. Nope, it wasnt a nice even deposit, it was all clumped in one area. both sides too. He removed the crud, and balanced the tyres, the godawful shaking has gone, just a slight "hop" from slightly out-of-round tyres.

Thanks Rob!!!!

[rangimotors]

If the caliper is seized i'd throw a rebuild kit at it, pull it apart fully and give it a really good clean up and do it right, Brakes are important..
If your not equiped to do it but are happy with bleeding brakes and basic pulling things apart and putting them back together then you can pull the calipers off (i'd do both at the same time) and drop them into a brake place. Then fit them back up, bleed them up and your done.

I had one i stuffed with for ages over a few months because i was to jew to buy a new kit, never did get it right. when i did finally get a new one it made a huge difference and I wondered why for 50 odd dollars i ever stuffed around with saftey..

good luck.

edit to add, if your piston(s) are all rusty and pitted it might be better to rebuild a second hand set to avoid it happening again.

[aussie_male1au]

Thanks for that Rangimotors, will be doing all that in the next couple of weeks when I'm on hols..main reason for taking time off is to work on her. Just finding parts for the ole girl is hard enough though but thank god brakes are universal.
Once I'm a bit more comfortable with pulling her apart and doing things am thinking about changing the steering linkages over to a GQ setup for ease of parts. Just from what I've found on the net sounds like a friggen HUGE job.
By the way, $50 is a slab of VB

[darinz]

A trick to pushing the piston back in is to use a big 'G' clamp.

[Lynx]

A trick to pushing the piston back in is to use a big 'G' clamp.

And if the are twin piston then use an old break pad

[aussie_male1au]

Yep, got that tip from a brake and clutch guy, apparently a really big hammer isn't the way to go
First piston wasn't hard at all, 2nd though that was a b$#ch. Ended up having to use a steel plate across the entire piston lip to spread the load evenly.
Was only a single piston, god, can't wait to do the drums on the rear