Beadlocks....Tubed....or.....Tubeless??

[hosehustler]

Iv'e done the hard yards reading on the www and it seems 50/50 elsewhere...
I've got two with tubes and two without, and 2 punctures to repair at the mo........one in a tube and one in a tubeless .... what are you others doing with beadlocks (external) here in Godzone before i bother fixing
Cheers
Tim

[Pedro]

Iv'e done the hard yards reading on the www and it seems 50/50 elsewhere...
I've got two with tubes and two without, and 2 punctures to repair at the mo........one in a tube and one in a tubeless .... what are you others doing with beadlocks (external) here in Godzone before i bother fixing
Cheers
Tim

33x 12.5 x 15 on 15 x8 beadlocked tubeless, second set and no issues


Pedro

[mud_slinger]

a tubeless will not deflate as quick as a tube. if the said nail or puncture causing intruder stays in the tubeless tire the innerliner is designed to slow a puncture leaking air where as with a tube it wil deflate almost instantly. its amazing how many cars come in for punctures and the nail or screw has penetrated but has not leaked out and its only been found due to going for a wof

[lexlux]

i run 35x11.5 ets on my hilux ,make sure you use good quality heavy wall tubes,plenty of talcom powder when you put them together ,pump them up slighty & them let them down just to make sure theres no folds or creases in the tube before you bolt them up & you should get many trouble free trips out of them .
that works for me any way.
theres all sorts of tricks out there off seen guys even duct tape the inside weld.
when your on a trip & you get flat tyre in a tube less beadlocked wheel your going to fix it by fitting a tube anyway.
cheers greg

[pruggerdore]

I run tubeless with silicon around bead to ensure a good seal (slow leaks suck) No problems as yet. hawkes bay club general consensus was and my advise was tube = guick flat when punctured and tubeless = slow leak pump up carry on or even chuck in some "slime" tubeless tyre repair and carry on
+ tubes are another expense on our already expensive wheels, I was happy to go tubles

[Jafa]

Hey Tim,
I run the heavy duty tubes, mechanical bead locks, and at 2-5lbs the chances of getting a flat is high, what happens is the valve is bolted to the rim, and at low pressures, the carcase of the tire moves around a lot and rips the valve out, doing it all again I'd go tubeless. I see the tube as a waste of time at low pressures, that said, simex's are pretty rigid, and you are probably not going down to 5psi, so tubes may be fine....

[hosehustler]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.
I'm gonna go tubeless on all 4... Tubeless seems to make the most sense from what i've read on here and elsewhere..... especially with the heavy walled simex's.
I'll carry a couple of tubes for trail repairs, I've also got a dive cyl and reg for an onboard air supply so plenty of wind for my needs.
cheers again
Tim

[sig]

i ran tubes for 20 years in all my 4wds but changed a year or so back to tubeless ,and dont regret it .i got sick of fixing punctures from tubes fretting inside tyres.changed my beadlocked simexs to tubeless dump valves .1 goes down over a week but with onboard air its an easy fill up .i am happy to run tubeless now .my only change is that on the 80 i dont go below 10 psi ,normally sit at 15 psi when round the south coast and if the going is really soft will drop to 10 psi .my 2 cents worth

[MNC]

I'm stoked to have read this thread cause I was thinking I needed tubes but after comments above I'll be giving it a go tubeless.

I was planning on running 4-5 psi in the rear and 10 psi in the front. I've got 10" wide rims and 15" wide rubber so plenty of outwards force there plus big rubber and a light truck so even with zero psi the rubber doesn't loose too much shape.

Has anyone ever popped and inside bead?

[haydgq]

Iv'e done the hard yards reading on the www and it seems 50/50 elsewhere...
I've got two with tubes and two without, and 2 punctures to repair at the mo........one in a tube and one in a tubeless .... what are you others doing with beadlocks (external) here in Godzone before i bother fixing
Cheers
Tim

Ive got 35in simex's on Mechanical Beadlocks made by Howie, i have also sealed up the inside weld with a thick silicone adheasive/sealent.

I run them tubless with dump valves and have had them as low as 5psi on boggy trips and they are fine and with the sealent on the weld they will stay air tight for weeks, checked the pressures on them the other day and they were still at 43-45psi from when travelling home from a trip a month ago.

[jeremy]

Is it a common problem for when running beadlocks tubeless, for them to go flat when they have been sitting for a while? Or lose pressure very slowly?

[4WDbits]

We ran tubeless beadlocks at Tough Truck over Easter, the tyre pressure today on all 5 wheels is exactly as set on Easter Friday.

[mud_slinger]

all tyres loose pressure over time when sitting round for long periods the air breaks down and seeps out. one way to stop it or to slow is to fill them with nitrogen.

[jeremy]

I ask because we've always run tractor tubes or simex tubes in our beadlock rims and never had any go flat while they've been sitting. In-fact we have a set of bald simex's on beadlock rims with tubes on our FJ40 and that's been sitting in the same place for 6 years (gee, has it been that long already!) and they are still holding air just fine.

I'm wondering if it's a good idea to go tubeless, or just stick with what's been working.

[mud_slinger]

its a much of a muchness really tubeless wont go flat as quick if ya get a puncture compared to a tube which will go flat strait away.