Might ruffle a few feathers but under my tyre has to be the best place for a Holden Commodore
Flex
- tomsoffroad
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Flex
Hehehehehe
Might ruffle a few feathers but under my tyre has to be the best place for a Holden Commodore
Might ruffle a few feathers but under my tyre has to be the best place for a Holden Commodore
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The pic's a bit dark, but is that daylight between the rear springs and the upper carriers ?? I thought that was a no go for cert ??
Correct, the spring was lying on the ground behind the tyre
The arms are on and seem to be doing the job. I do have a question though........ I ended up removing the shims on the ball joints and the ball joint still is not firm enough, is the key you put in the steering arms not protuding enough? Or is there something I might be over looking?
I'll be taking the truck out for a sound thrashing tomorrow in the biggest rocks I can point it at, so I'll let you know how the arms hold up.
I must say Reece, you've done a bloody good job on them though
Damm!
I must have machined a bit much off the top of the kingpin "key"... its an easy fix, take off the bolt holding it on, (might take a bit I set it at 150Nm, used nordlock washers and crc stud lock) shim it down with a bit of thin sheetmetel
Before you do it up, scuff up all matting surfaces and put a drop of studlock in between each
To center the key all you need to do is use one of the standard shims (ones you took out ) its mounted slightly off center so drop the shim over the key and spin it round till all the holes line up and tighten
Looking forward to hearing how they go my trucks so far from going its almost funny
I hear they were a bit long, even after I'd shortened them, I'm going to make the next set shorter and I'm going to put two bolts through to the king pin key(save having to use the shim to locate the key), any other ideas???
Cheers Reece
I must have machined a bit much off the top of the kingpin "key"... its an easy fix, take off the bolt holding it on, (might take a bit I set it at 150Nm, used nordlock washers and crc stud lock) shim it down with a bit of thin sheetmetel
Before you do it up, scuff up all matting surfaces and put a drop of studlock in between each
To center the key all you need to do is use one of the standard shims (ones you took out ) its mounted slightly off center so drop the shim over the key and spin it round till all the holes line up and tighten
Looking forward to hearing how they go my trucks so far from going its almost funny
I hear they were a bit long, even after I'd shortened them, I'm going to make the next set shorter and I'm going to put two bolts through to the king pin key(save having to use the shim to locate the key), any other ideas???
Cheers Reece
Cheers Reece
De Ranged Engineering
027 541 8794
De Ranged Engineering
027 541 8794
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I hear they were a bit long, even after I'd shortened them, I'm going to make the next set shorter and I'm going to put two bolts through to the king pin key(save having to use the shim to locate the key), any other ideas???
Cheers Reece
Yip got one..... I'm running 35x12.5x15 on 10 inch rims, I'm also using 30mm wheel spacers, the rims are at maximum offset. The high steer arms will not clear the tyres without the spacers. I'm not worried at all 'cos I've got the spacers (they were a gift).
I dunno might be something to think about
So where are you at with your Lux? Abit busy at the moment?
Later
Thomas
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Hmmm thats a funky one, if I move the tierod balljoints in its going to change the steering geometry.... I wonder if I could shorten them enough to fit inside the rim and leave them on the same geometry.. I'll have a look at that tomorrow
The only other option is to change the geometry, means more tire wear thow as the tires won't track evenly
How much of the arm is rubbing on the tire/wheel and how far in do I have to move it ??
Sorry about that Tom, I made them to fit my rims
8" wide
Ask your certifiyer about the spacers, I heard a rumor bolt patern adapters are alright spacers are not!
As for my wagon hmmm well lets just say its still spread from one end of the shed to the other, the motor is almost rebuilt, the chassi is almost rebuilt, but thanks to a $1.90 part for my digger (that I'm still waiting for
) I've had a bit of time to work on it this weekend (instead of working
)... If I'm really lucky I might get the chassi finished, at this rate I'll be very very lucky if I'm playing at christmas
If you can get me the details on the arms I'll start into another set tomorrow
even if you don't need them somebody with your setup will
Cheers Reece
The only other option is to change the geometry, means more tire wear thow as the tires won't track evenly
How much of the arm is rubbing on the tire/wheel and how far in do I have to move it ??
Sorry about that Tom, I made them to fit my rims
Ask your certifiyer about the spacers, I heard a rumor bolt patern adapters are alright spacers are not!
If you can get me the details on the arms I'll start into another set tomorrow
Cheers Reece
Cheers Reece
De Ranged Engineering
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De Ranged Engineering
027 541 8794
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Yeh pretty much.
I've got to sort out new springs and I going to get rid of the ball joint on the A frame and make a treg type coupling.
I also lunched the rear diff
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA shit happens.
I didn't get the chance to shim those keys on the steering arms, I've got to play around with the steering abit, it bump steers really badly.
Other than that it seems to go really well.
I've got to sort out new springs and I going to get rid of the ball joint on the A frame and make a treg type coupling.
I also lunched the rear diff
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA shit happens.
I didn't get the chance to shim those keys on the steering arms, I've got to play around with the steering abit, it bump steers really badly.
Other than that it seems to go really well.
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SupraLux
Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:18 pm
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The word I got from the certifier was that 10mm is the max you can get a cert for with a spacer, but if you use the bolt on ones you can go up to 27mm... any more than that and no certificate...
Yeh they are 25mm bolt on addaptors.
Whats the plan with yours Steve????
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SupraLux
Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2004 5:00 am
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I'm having some 25mm bolt-on spacers machined up. I'm going to remove the IFS disc and calipers since it seems they won't get certified with the pads not fully contacting the disc - I'm going to use FJ40 discs and the IFS calipers with the 25mm spacer for the front
regards
Steve
So the spacers will go inside of the disk?
No, they bolt onto the wheel studs, and have new wheel studs that the wheel bolts on to. Kind of like these:
http://www.aor4x4.com/wheelspacers.htm
Hopefully they will work out cheaper than the AOR ones
Steve
http://www.aor4x4.com/wheelspacers.htm
Hopefully they will work out cheaper than the AOR ones
Steve
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SupraLux
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2004 4:31 am
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My Nana gave you free wheel spacers?
And that wasn't all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bubba
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2004 12:58 pm
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So OK I think I have established I'm a dumb ass But what do spacers do?
Just move the wheels outward, makes it abit more stable