alternator

[michaelmohr]

Hi, can anyone give me a price on a used alternator for my '93 Terrano RzM (2.7l td)?

Cheers.

[mud_slinger]

look in a phone book under "wrecker" or "auto electrical" they may have a exchange recondition service going on

[niblik]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 918228.htm

[michaelmohr]

yeah, wrecker offered on for 250+GST+freight. cheap or dear, that is the question here....

[Sketchy_Racer]

to much for a second hand one, good price for a new one.

I got one from the wreckers for 100

[pressy]

see what it would be to recon it at a auto sparky. mite be surprised.

[meatc]

Prob wouldnt bother with a recon on it, most of then were the splines off the vacum pump drive, which makes them scrap. I paid about 300ish for a new one 5 years ago, trade price through a mate.

[michaelmohr]

Good morning.

Just phoned up everybody in chch and Qt and Alex'.
Used alternators are n/a. New, after-market one from 395.-

Only one I got offered is the one mentioned earlier for 250.-
Guess, I gotta take it if I wanna be able to drive my car this WE.

[michaelmohr]

@meatc: Is that spline part of the alternator or the vacuum pump? I mean, if I get a replacement alt' is the spline on my vac pump possibly still busted? Or prob' not cause I'd have noticed already because of braking problems...? Or not?

[meatc]

@meatc: Is that spline part of the alternator or the vacuum pump? I mean, if I get a replacement alt' is the spline on my vac pump possibly still busted? Or prob' not cause I'd have noticed already because of braking problems...? Or not?

Its the spline on the alternator. The armuture shaft has a spline on the front for the pully and then one out the back for the vac pump. For some reason they were the splines off the shaft, from what I know doen't appear to effect the pump damage wise, until it lets go completely. I can't be sure but I think the new 1 I got had a new pump on it too.

[michaelmohr]

OK thanks for you tips so far, guys.
I still have trouble understanding what the actual problem is; this is what happened so far:
One morning I get into the truck and everything is dead, nothing, not even the interior light is on or the centre locking working.
I get a jump start and drive it around for 1h or so and after that the int. light etc is working again. But when I get back to the car after work 9h later everything is dead again. So I roll-start it down the hill and drive home; int. lights etc working again after I park and turn it off. But it's all dead again in the morning. I have positively checked that everything was off before I left the car.
Now the mech checked the voltage on the batt while the engine was running the next day and it only read 12.9V when, as he said, it should be around 14V. OK, that's when I/we figured the alternator is busted. But since then the battery seems to be getting charged again as I am able to start the car again now. I checked the voltage again today and read 13.6V with the engine running. According to the charge indicator on the batt itself it is still not charged though.

What shall I do?

I got the replacement alternator but is there a chance I just have a loose connector or something? Is there anything else I can measure before I rip out the old one and then find out the problem (not charging the batt) still exists with the new one in?



MM

[u13turbo]

OK thanks for you tips so far, guys.
I still have trouble understanding what the actual problem is; this is what happened so far:
One morning I get into the truck and everything is dead, nothing, not even the interior light is on or the centre locking working.
I get a jump start and drive it around for 1h or so and after that the int. light etc is working again. But when I get back to the car after work 9h later everything is dead again. So I roll-start it down the hill and drive home; int. lights etc working again after I park and turn it off. But it's all dead again in the morning. I have positively checked that everything was off before I left the car.
Now the mech checked the voltage on the batt while the engine was running the next day and it only read 12.9V when, as he said, it should be around 14V. OK, that's when I/we figured the alternator is busted. But since then the battery seems to be getting charged again as I am able to start the car again now. I checked the voltage again today and read 13.6V with the engine running. According to the charge indicator on the batt itself it is still not charged though.

What shall I do?

I got the replacement alternator but is there a chance I just have a loose connector or something? Is there anything else I can measure before I rip out the old one and then find out the problem (not charging the batt) still exists with the new one in?



MM

If its getting 13.6v it should be ok. Could be your battery if buggered, Another test you could try is drive for awhile so battery gets some charge, then when you turn it off for the day or night, take the negative terminal off so the vehicle cant drain any voltage. If it starts after that, there is a light or something staying on in your truck, My brothers car 'Door Open' light always stayed on and he had to do this for a few weeks.

[SP450andLE]

To test if the alternator is faulty:

While the engine is running, disconnect the positive terminal from the battery. If the engine begins to stall immediately, the alternator is faulty, as the engine is relying purely on battery power.

Otherwise, as u13turbo pointed out, the battery is probably stuffed.

[slide]

To check your alternator simply, 1st check battery voltage with engine off. Then start engine, turn on headlights and recheck. If voltage goes up, then alternator all good. If it goes down then alternator bad.
Best to check actual amps of charge tho, but bit more indepth and you need a good ammeter.
Always allow for glowplugs 'sucking' away power. Some vehicle (like ford courier) glow for a long time after glow light has gone off, and this will screw up your testing. Check with testlight at glow plugs to make sure they dont have power supply to them (ie relay clicked off) before testing alternator.
If battery is a calcium sealed type (as most are nowadays) it will be very hard to recharge, and can give starting headaches when flat. Best to get checked by a workshop, and charged up with a suitable calcium type charger (home charger will NOT have enough grunt).

[sibainmud]

To test if the alternator is faulty:

While the engine is running, disconnect the positive terminal from the battery. If the engine begins to stall immediately, the alternator is faulty, as the engine is relying purely on battery power.

Otherwise, as u13turbo pointed out, the battery is probably stuffed.

Who told you this method?
Flawed with a diesel.
Bad for the alt.
Sounds like the alt is cooked.
Reg has a leak to earth or a diode.
Remanufactured or new......only way to go.

Cheers,

[SP450andLE]

To test if the alternator is faulty:

While the engine is running, disconnect the positive terminal from the battery. If the engine begins to stall immediately, the alternator is faulty, as the engine is relying purely on battery power.

Otherwise, as u13turbo pointed out, the battery is probably stuffed.

Who told you this method?
Flawed with a diesel.
Bad for the alt.
Sounds like the alt is cooked.
Reg has a leak to earth or a diode.
Remanufactured or new......only way to go.

Cheers,

Oh, really? Hows that?

I heard it somewhere, can't remember where

[sibainmud]

Diesels have no spark.
The only power they need is to energize the run solenoid on the fuel pump and that can run with as low as 9volts with only milli-amps needed.
An alternator is a simple enough invention that relies on some simple parameters. One of the most important rules is; never disconnect battery or the output from the alt while it is running as the power will have nowhere to go resulting in blown diodes in the rectifier and/or stuffing the regulator at the same time.
Use the right test gear in the right way and there is no "white-man" majic to it

Cheers,

[SP450andLE]

Diesels have no spark.
The only power they need is to energize the run solenoid on the fuel pump and that can run with as low as 9volts with only milli-amps needed.
An alternator is a simple enough invention that relies on some simple parameters. One of the most important rules is; never disconnect battery or the output from the alt while it is running as the power will have nowhere to go resulting in blown diodes in the rectifier and/or stuffing the regulator at the same time.
Use the right test gear in the right way and there is no "white-man" majic to it

Cheers,

Damn, wheres the Smilie for 'that went right over my head'

I'll just keep my Beach Haven tech to myself...

[michaelmohr]

woohoo! I got the new one in and the thing still goes. not bad for a chef... eh!?
Measured the voltage and was going up when headlights on and a little rev. (1000rpm+)

Strange thing though that the car was starting the last couple of days with no prob's. the old alt' must've still been charging a little bit. But maybe not consistently. The battery btw is only 1.5y old. Heavy duty type.

Thanks heaps, guys, and safe driving!!


MM