Another patrol brake question..

[Fakey]

Before anyone jumps in, Ive had a good search around an cant find what im after. I even had a look on the oz patrol forum

I failed my cert because my truck took 5.2s to stop on the 5th brake application due to brake fade according to the certifier.
A few weeks ago my vh44 booster split the vacuum line an locked the front brakes on an cooked the hell out of the pads, so I really think that has f#$ked them.
Im going to get new pads an try again

Soo my question is what brand pads are people running in turbo an v8 repowered patrols?
Has it been certed yet?
Dont care about pad life etc just want a good pad thatll stop well an not fadetoo much after 5 applications (insert tui ad here)

Mine has the std single piston calipers an discs, everything else is new or reconditioned in the braking system.

[Sadam_Husain]

theres been a few threads about brake pads before and I think bendix are usually recommended

[DaveM]

Bendix 4wd pads were what I've always used, and improved with heat.
Has it been checked on the brake machine to ensure the proportioning valve is set up right?

[crazyclark31]

i've done the brake test just outa interest in mine. It runs standard everything and by the 5th braking period its 4.8 seconds.
When got the new pads just went into bnt and asked for some good front pads for a gq'took em home and biffed them in.Can't for the life of me remember what they were tho.

If the pads got stinking hot might pay to check the disks aswell.esp if run for too long.

[Fakey]

Hmm probably shouldve added Im running 37"s as well, 1st 3 stops were all under 4 seconds but the 4th just scraped in an the 5th was over.
Yeah tried searching brake pads etc but the only thing I could find was Coxys thread an that was not much help at all.
I think the pads I have now are c-plus? 4x4 pads might have to see what bendix have to offer.
Dont have a proportioning valve as such just the extra braking force of the vh44 booster in the front circuit.

[Sadam_Husain]

my VH40 is sitting in a box in the shelf if you want to try it out to see if makes any difference?

[Fakey]

Thanks Marty Ill keep that in mind but seeing as it easily came in under 4 seconds the first time I dont think I have a problem with braking force. I think its more that my pads just couldnt handle the heat

[Pedro]

Before anyone jumps in, Ive had a good search around an cant find what im after. I even had a look on the oz patrol forum

I failed my cert because my truck took 5.2s to stop on the 5th brake application due to brake fade according to the certifier.
A few weeks ago my vh44 booster split the vacuum line an locked the front brakes on an cooked the hell out of the pads, so I really think that has f#$ked them.
Im going to get new pads an try again

Soo my question is what brand pads are people running in turbo an v8 repowered patrols?
Has it been certed yet?
Dont care about pad life etc just want a good pad thatll stop well an not fadetoo much after 5 applications (insert tui ad here)

Mine has the std single piston calipers an discs, everything else is new or reconditioned in the braking system.

i used EBC brake pads from a crowd in auckland, do a google search for them, made a hell of a difference in stopping, not overly cheap at 150 per end, but for cert ya gotta do it.

Pedro

[GQTROL]

Bendix Metal Kings. They don't work f*ck-all until they're hot, and then they're gold.

[DKZ]

What about going to different discs such as slotted?

[skid]

tell the fat fingered certifier to push the stopwatch a bit quicker

he knows you and hes picking on .2 of a second on the last stop

tell him Skid said to move his fingers quicker next time

[sig]

now now skiddy thats not how you talk about the person who pays your wages. hes not called the earl for nothing

[Fakey]

Thanks for the replies guys, Ive been looking at EBCs an the bendix ones not sure where to get the EBC ones tho. Not too worried about the price I just want good pads thatll handle the heat to get it thru the cert
I talked to Ken again today,He said its definately got the stopping power to pass it just needs to handle the heat .
He said he was pretty happy with everything else apart from the F#@ked steering pump not working at Idle so ill be making a new bracket an pulley for the original cruiser pump to get it working better

[Sadam_Husain]

http://www.ebcbrakes.co.nz/Stockists/ta ... fault.aspx

[Pedro]

Thanks for the replies guys, Ive been looking at EBCs an the bendix ones not sure where to get the EBC ones tho. Not too worried about the price I just want good pads thatll handle the heat to get it thru the cert
I talked to Ken again today,He said its definately got the stopping power to pass it just needs to handle the heat .
He said he was pretty happy with everything else apart from the F#@ked steering pump not working at Idle so ill be making a new bracket an pulley for the original cruiser pump to get it working better

go ebc, according to various forums they way better than bendix...


cheers

pedro

[Sadam_Husain]

which type of ebc pads did you go with pedro?

[Pedro]

which type of ebc pads did you go with pedro?

the yellow stuff ebc pads

Pedro

[churchill]

On our road cars my mates use to put metalic or kevlar brake pads and ugrade the brake fluid to a high temperature type. Also to help heat dissapation we used to remove the inner brake splash shield, not sure how much effect doing this had but it could be something to try. Only thing to be aware of is that water can splash onto a hot disc and warp it when the splash shields are removed, although I never had this happen.

The other guys are right about the high performance pads not being good when they're cool but wicked when warm. They also wear out discs faster on road applications.

[Sadam_Husain]

which type of ebc pads did you go with pedro?

the yellow stuff ebc pads

Pedro

I'll remember that for when I have to go through all the brake cert problems

[Fakey]

On our road cars my mates use to put metalic or kevlar brake pads and ugrade the brake fluid to a high temperature type. Also to help heat dissapation we used to remove the inner brake splash shield, not sure how much effect doing this had but it could be something to try. Only thing to be aware of is that water can splash onto a hot disc and warp it when the splash shields are removed, although I never had this happen.

The other guys are right about the high performance pads not being good when they're cool but wicked when warm. They also wear out discs faster on road applications.

Splash sheilds/backing plates are already gone, this truck wont ever see any high speed road an braking work after its all certed
Forgot to call about the EBC pads today, will have to be monday now

[probie]

Priced up the EBC yellow pads for my 70 today $224.00 + gst

[darinz]

First thing I'd do is a complete change of the brake fluid.
The other (but sounds like you'gve done it) is make sure you are getting full brake power to the rear brakes. The difference between the rears fully working and not is massive.

Also (probably don't need to say this but) lighten the truck as much as you can for the test. eg no spare tyre, take the winch off, no recovery gear etc. There is no law that says you must have a spare etc so dropping a couple of hundred k's should help as well. And run your tyres at a lower pressure to increase rolling resistance. No soft but try 5psi less.

I had a set of pads ordered for mine but i can't remember what they were other than something European? The box had red trim with blue/grey pcitures everywhere else. Anyway they were great. Worked when cool but resisted fade really well. They cost a large fortune and were ordered in for me so I guess I should have paid more attention.