hiace diff head

toymudlux · Post by **toymudlux** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:58 pm

have been told that hiaces have a lower gearing , approx 5.2/3 .
i am wanting to put these into my lux to lower the gearing and make a little more use of both horses under the bonnet ,as the are piss heads that dont do alot .....
dose anyone local have any or know of a suply of them and what they are worth..
cheers Andy

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:19 am

They are 5.29, in early 70's Hiace vans and flatdecks, twin round headlight hiaces.
They are getting hard to find tho, wreckers don't bother with them :!:

Best way to source a couple is to put a wanted add in the buy-sell, be specific about the model being twin round headlights as well, nothing else had them.
expect to pay anywhere from $20-150 depending on what the owner knows, don't let on what you're using them for and they'll be cheaper

one mod is required to use them, 1/4 turn the drive shaft and drill 4 new holes in the flange on the diff.

SupraSurf · Post by **SupraSurf** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:19 am

You are correct.. 5.29 for a '78/'79 1600cc Hiace Van

Note that they are weaker than all other lux diffs, even if you get new R&P the 5.29 has a tiny pinion ( only 7 teeth ) so the contact area is small.

BUT good luck finding any, the boys has been all over them for years and they are rare

rokhound · Post by **rokhound** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:21 am

Failing that you can buy (either import your own or buy from dealers in aChCh) 5.29 aftermarket ring and pinnions to fit your carriers.

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:23 am

SupraSurf wrote:You are correct.. 5.29 for a '78/'79 1600cc Hiace Van

Note that they are weaker than all other lux diffs, even if you get new R&P the 5.29 has a tiny pinion ( only 7 teeth ) so the contact area is small.

BUT good luck finding any, the boys has been all over them for years and they are rare

Are the after market ones no stronger mike :?:

SupraSurf · Post by **SupraSurf** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:28 am

They are stronger than the factory 5.29 but would still be weaker than a factory 4.88, The best deal on a R&P is from Bobby Long in the US, his are treated..

The 7 tooth pinion is the problem, thats the only way to get 5.29 ( 37 X 7 ).

Compare the 4.1 and 5.29 and you'll really see the difference. Alot of US crawlers are going 4.1 and working with lower gearing in the transfer case to maintain strength.

Have said all that as you know Tim we have been using the 5.29 and while they are cheap the odd failure is worth the gearing you get.

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:31 am

SupraSurf wrote:They are stronger than the factory 5.29 but would still be weaker than a factory 4.88, The best deal on a R&P is from Bobby Long in the US, his are treated..

The 7 tooth pinion is the problem, thats the only way to get 5.29 ( 37 X 7 ).

Compare the 4.1 and 5.29 and you'll really see the difference. Alot of US crawlers are going 4.1 and working with lower gearing in the transfer case to maintain strength.

Have said all that as you know Tim we have been using the 5.29 and while they are cheap the odd failure is worth the gearing you get.

And can honestly say to Mike the info you supplied originally to do this mod a couple of years back was 100% one of the best mods I did to the lux, getting the gearing right makes a huge differance :shock:

Rangielux · Post by **Rangielux** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:32 am

SupraSurf wrote:
Note that they are weaker than all other lux diffs, even if you get new R&P the 5.29 has a tiny pinion ( only 7 teeth ) so the contact area is small.

Dead right Suprasurf, I've also found the lower ratio the weaker the diff (from experiance) I've stripped too many 4.88's even and now are running 4.55 in rangielux (have gained reduction thru the transfer instead) and am feeling much more comfident about the strenght of the diff.

toymudlux · Post by **toymudlux** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:19 pm

you guys know too much, dose your heads hurt ,mine dose just thinking about it all ...
as i only have a 3y with lokrights front and rear am i likely to start blowing diffs with so little power ....

was watching out back challenge dvd and have decided that the long term plan is to do wider diff in rear (steve's fault ) then put spacers on the front and bigger breaks (hosehustler's fault) , then do coils front and rear with twin shocks in the front (outback challenge's fault ) ..
thats not to mention the lexus under the hood ,beed lockered rims , 35" tyres a set of arb lockers at both ends and hydrolic winch mounted at the front of the deck attached to two drums so i can switch between a drum for the front and a seperate drum for the rear ....

now all i need to do is win lotto and look outt..........

rokhound · Post by **rokhound** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 7:30 am

There is no doubt that the lower the gearing, the weaker the pininon, But you still have to be swinging big boots and have a lead right jandal to blow them to bits.
I'm reknowned for kicking the shit out of my wreck in the slop, (and sometimes when rock "crawling"), and I have blown 1 diff. And that diff was still going, it was just that the truck had a ground up rebuild, and I decided to change it.
Having said all that, I reckon the best set up is a stepper reduction box so that wheel/gear ratio combinations are maintained in all gears, IE not just when in low range.

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 1:59 pm

My 2c

(If only I had 2c for every time I gave my 2c

)

Repower first. 4.88's are the standard NZ new 3Y diff ratio, so they are nice and low in your truck already - the lowest 'strong' ratio - you just can't tell because you have a 300,000km 3Y in there producing a whopping 34.5HP (actual results may differ from those advertised - this figure is based on what they FEEL like they produce

)

Lexus? Hmmm... I'd go 2JZ - less thirsty, similar power, half the price, sound nice, fit nice, wiring is nice - the 1UZ is ok, but everyone has one and they are HEAVY and complicated... a 2JZ conversion will also cost probably just over 1/2 what a 1UZ will... (based on experience of the 2JZ and what I've been told of a 1UZ conversion)

5.29's - don't go there, although I think you've figured that from what you've been told above

IF you can find one, its 30 years old and they were weak to begin with... breaking them is innevitable.

Wide rear axle - easy peasy lemon squeezy... front - do the IFS hub mod - also easy... both mods can probably be achieved for around $500 or less all up if you do the work yourself and get lucky on parts prices. I will sell/swap you the rear axle I have here and can get you 2 IFS hubs for around $100. The spacers come from Tim - oh, and Tim, could you ask your man about a bulk buy price? Maybe get 10 of them done? I know theres a few of us here wanting to do the mod (Me included on 2 more axles)

Falcons in the rear - not quite so easy, but a VERY good mod to do - rears in the front... getting harder but I know someone who can help with this

ARB's - you're over a barrel here... theres three places in Chch who can do em that I know of - Rik will tell you not to use one of them, my mate Mike who had 2 fitted to a SWB Safari will tell you not to use another... and I've never thought much of the third

Take your pick :lol:

- or import them and have them installed by a third party who has no ties to selling them.

Beadlocks? Ask the guys who use big rubber how often they blow a tyre off the rim... personally I'd put that way down the list... I've never rolled one off and haven't seen any Hiluxes do it when I've been out... it happens, but not very often... heck, I run my Simexes at 10psi offroad and I've not done it yet and the 4JG2-T produces a good amount of torque. IF you had a LAndCruiser I'd say go for it, but you'd be better off putting the cash into the engine conversion or the wide axles...

Steve

Goose · Post by **Goose** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 2:14 pm

[quote="SupraLux"]My 2c

(If only I had 2c for every time I gave my 2c

)

Well Steve, if we assume that approximately one third of your posts are your "2c's worth", you would have the extremely grand ammount of $10 and 58 cents.

Personally, I think you should charge a little more for your time..... :lol:

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 2:16 pm

Hmmm... you're right... ok, from now on every post I make will cost $20 :lol:

hosehustler · Post by **hosehustler** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 3:38 pm

SupraLux wrote:5.29's - don't go there, although I think you've figured that from what you've been told above IF you can find one, its 30 years old and they were weak to begin with... breaking them is innevitable..

SupraSurf wrote:They are stronger than the factory 5.29 but would still be weaker than a factory 4.88, we have been using the 5.29 and while they are cheap the odd failure is worth the gearing you get.

I think not going there at all is a bit harsh, it's a good cheap mod

and it's all about keeping the price down

so what if you have the odd failure, I've blown one and had over two years of well geared fun

,

SupraLux wrote:Wide rear axle - easy peasy lemon squeezy... front - do the IFS hub mod - also easy... both mods can probably be achieved for around $500 or less all up if you do the work yourself and get lucky on parts prices. I will sell/swap you the rear axle I have here and can get you 2 IFS hubs for around $100. The spacers come from Tim - oh, and Tim, could you ask your man about a bulk buy price? Maybe get 10 of them done? I know theres a few of us here wanting to do the mod (Me included on 2 more axles)

Will ring him and find out for ya :wink:

toymudlux · Post by **toymudlux** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 5:50 pm

what about the coils ....
i want to do coils as well , think a beam lux with coils would be the SHIZZLE......

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 9:16 pm

SupraSurfs IS a beam with coils... its good... a bit of work but the flex is very impressive.

Leithfields is also a beam with coils - although his started as an IFS truck. Also very impressive flex.

Steve

rokhound · Post by **rokhound** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 9:34 pm

toymudlux wrote:what about the coils ....
i want to do coils as well , think a beam lux with coils would be the SHIZZLE......

Check out the "post your artic photos" thread in the forums. Coil sprung luxs and surfs are not uncommon. Suprasurfs rig flexs up great, but rides as hard as hell, (but it's getting worked on), used to drivw well on the road when it was road legal. Mine has unreal artic, but is a bloody big handfull to drive on road, hence I don't, (comfy ride though). Another truck that has been done for a while is an LN130 with supra and auto. Nigels truck had the whole package, great ride, good artic, and nice road manners. From what iv'e heard about Leithfields rig, it also does all the right things, (and of course it's road legal.)
It's a lot of work, and you need an understanding of suspension and steering geometry, but if done right, it is well worth the effort :lol:

niblik · Post by **niblik** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:06 am

there is also gc with his leaf sprung lux, and he gets that thing anywhere and is a very capable vehicle.. keeps up with the coils from what i understand? is that right rok?

then again, he is a bit of a nutter... :roll:

rokhound · Post by **rokhound** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:59 am

niblik wrote:there is also gc with his leaf sprung lux, and he gets that thing anywhere and is a very capable vehicle.. keeps up with the coils from what i understand? is that right rok?

then again, he is a bit of a nutter...

Most definatly Nibby. GC's wagon is easliy a match for the coilers, and his spring setup would be lucky to have a capital cost of $350.00. He has spent a bit of time tuning it in, but then GC also had the adavntage of follwing where the rest of us had already been.
Check it out!

And this one

This truck just runs an leaves, no special air bags or force artic rams.

gomulletgo · Post by **gomulletgo** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:22 pm

Hey guys,

does anyone know exactly what leaf springs GC is using in that truck? and if it required any change to the chassis mounts etc, or was it a bolt up job?

MULLET

SupraLux · Post by **SupraLux** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:35 pm

Yep, Falcons in the rear and rears up front... use the search function, its all very well documented as far as proven suspension mods for hiluxes go.

Steve

gomulletgo · Post by **gomulletgo** » Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:45 am

Thanks steve,

I did'nt know about that seach function, I typed in "hilux surf leaf springs" and 1174 posts came up! ok I'll work on that.

I'm going to try and avoid falcon springs and the work involved for now.

I have noticed a few people commenting on how factory hilux rears don't flex well enough, is this overcome by the extra weight (of engine etc.) when they are put in the front of the vehicle?

MULLET

oldblue · Post by **oldblue** » Sun Sep 03, 2006 9:45 am

A friend , has softend his hilux rear springs, and fitted a single coil on top of the rear diff houseing.
This makes the axle swing from the center point and give it great articalation.
The centre coil perch is also agestable, i think he used Akro scafold feet parts.

rokhound · Post by **rokhound** » Sun Sep 03, 2006 11:54 am

Have seen that done on a 40 series Oldblue, it worked an absolute treat.

On my old 60 series cruiser, I have Datsun 120y front coils between the leaf spring and the chasiss rails, it also works real good, and lifts the back by about 2". All on std leafs.