radar21 wrote:at my work we have a couple of homy vans that the filler cap come lose by them selves the threads on them get worn then as the engines vibrate the just work them selves lose
That could of been the reason also, Homys have exactly same motor dont they
radar21 wrote:at my work we have a couple of homy vans that the filler cap come lose by them selves the threads on them get worn then as the engines vibrate the just work them selves lose
radar21 wrote:at my work we have a couple of homy vans that the filler cap come lose by them selves the threads on them get worn then as the engines vibrate the just work them selves lose
That could of been the reason also, Homys have exactly same motor dont they
Ok back on topic, Where in chch would be the place to get body lift blocks? and then where for the bolts? and finnally what sorta cost will i be looking at?
I rung and they said $86 per metre which is pretty bloody good i thought! I'll need to get onto this pretty soon.
Went to a wrecker and got new handbrake cables, basically brandnew rear disc pads, and decent hub pads for handbrake, and new caliper as mine was buggered, got it all fitted so i finnally have a handbrake! Also sorted my bullbar and got my 2 corner lights fitted.
While we are on the subject of handbrakes and body lifts, I have a tec tip for you When I lifted my body, I made some bracket extensions where the handbrake cable is bolted to the body to ease the angle they are on. 1 inch should do it. What happens is when you flex the rear diff it pulls the cables slightly and wears the brake shoes prematurely. After a day of thrashing around Woodhill, my hand brake goes from 2 or 3 clicks full on in the morning, to the handle just about reaching the roof
Cheers,
I keep looking for the loose nut behind the wheel, but I can't find it!!
sibainmud wrote:While we are on the subject of handbrakes and body lifts, I have a tec tip for you When I lifted my body, I made some bracket extensions where the handbrake cable is bolted to the body to ease the angle they are on. 1 inch should do it. What happens is when you flex the rear diff it pulls the cables slightly and wears the brake shoes prematurely. After a day of thrashing around Woodhill, my hand brake goes from 2 or 3 clicks full on in the morning, to the handle just about reaching the roof
Cheers,
Shit cheers for that, itd be my luck to just get it in and then wearing it out in no time. When you done you lift, did you need to extend anything else? I kindof have to have it all ready to do in a day as my car ran big end bearings, so this is my only vehicle... can have it half apart then decide i need something else...
Yeah, it pays to pull the steering shaft out and lenghten the slip joint in a vice with a hammer, so as you don't stress the rubber flexible disc at the top. Apart from that, it also pays to stretch to brake line coils by hand as you jack the body up. It stops the little plastic retaining clips from breaking Don't forget to remove fan shrouds (both top and bottom). The only other thing that may cause a headache, is the front bar. Not sure how yours is, but my ARB bar had to be cut and ground out to let the bit of the body under the top bumper mount raise up without hitting it.
Cheers,
I keep looking for the loose nut behind the wheel, but I can't find it!!
sibainmud wrote:Yeah, it pays to pull the steering shaft out and lenghten the slip joint in a vice with a hammer, so as you don't stress the rubber flexible disc at the top. Apart from that, it also pays to stretch to brake line coils by hand as you jack the body up. It stops the little plastic retaining clips from breaking The only other thing that may cause a headache, is the front bar. Not sure how yours is, but my ARB bar had to be cut and ground out to let the bit of the body under the top bumper mount raise up without hitting it.
Cheers,
Righto sounds good as. Yeah my front bar will be a bugger to refit. It'll prob stay off for awhile until i get it sorted. Cheers for that Simon.
Have a look at my "big lift" post from yonks back on the body lift and tips. You need to lengthen the filler hose to the tank, just undo the clips and let it slip, radiator hoses need attention as does the power steering hose. Slip the bottom shroud off the radiator, and notch the floor for the hi/low lever to go into low. Simon has mentioned brake lines but I suggest you make spacers for handbrake cable brackets the same height as your blocks. I did a 2" lift with 1" spacers and it isn't enough. There is something else but I cannot remember what sorry.
Ok people, move along. Nothing to see here. Thank you, move along. Ph 0212078472
That's weird Pete, didn't have to notch shift lever hole After posting before, I remembered the power steer return hose, used a bit of 3/8 fuel line from the off-cut bin. Ah .....other thing, drive-shaft hoop. Cheers,
I keep looking for the loose nut behind the wheel, but I can't find it!!
sibainmud wrote:That's weird Pete, didn't have to notch shift lever hole After posting before, I remembered the power steer return hose, used a bit of 3/8 fuel line from the off-cut bin. Ah .....other thing, drive-shaft hoop. Cheers,
Yes that's the one, the hoop. I had to notch my floor about 30mm for my lever and make a new boot for it too. I made mine from nautical grade vynal. I also had trouble locating the new rear bolts, but I loosened the bolts the bracket is held on by to make this easier. You will see when you have a look there. I have heard you can reverse the rear bumper brackets to get it to sit higher too so i will be looking at this in the weekend. Just remember to loosen all the bolts first, then remove from one side and jack up.
Ok people, move along. Nothing to see here. Thank you, move along. Ph 0212078472
Went to Dotmar and got 700mm of 50mm diameter rod. Not sure If I should of got 60mm diameter or if 50mm is ok? And I don't suppose anyone has a list of the nuts and bolts I need? Also before I went to Dotmar I asked at Ace4wd how much for body lift blocks, $250 for 10 blocks!!!
Im thinking about selling my bull bars, Every time i nudge something they flex up and smash my corner lights, just got 2 new ones ready for WOF and broke another one today!
Anyway i got the butterfly thingy sealed up:
And here it is abit covered in snow:
Last edited by u13turbo on Mon Jul 25, 2011 8:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hey im in the process of doing my terrano up with 31in tyres but now rear lsd has shat it. so does anyone here know where i can find a good lsd for 91 diesel auto rear.
Paulballz wrote:Hey im in the process of doing my terrano up with 31in tyres but now rear lsd has shat it. so does anyone here know where i can find a good lsd for 91 diesel auto rear.
Just keep an eye out on Tm, and look at the plate under your bonnet i think it should be like HG46 or similar, which mean 4.6ratio.
Should try putting your positive battery terminal on the right way. They work better and fit further on, surface contact is the key Looking good. Yip +50mm is the way. Getting 1.25 thread pitch helps too. Then they screw in the captive nuts in the body.
Cheers,
I keep looking for the loose nut behind the wheel, but I can't find it!!
Paulballz wrote:Hey im in the process of doing my terrano up with 31in tyres but now rear lsd has shat it. so does anyone here know where i can find a good lsd for 91 diesel auto rear.
Just keep an eye out on Tm, and look at the plate under your bonnet i think it should be like HG46 or similar, which mean 4.6ratio.
Don't worry about the ratio, just swap out your ring gear, that's what I did with mine.
Ok people, move along. Nothing to see here. Thank you, move along. Ph 0212078472
u13turbo wrote:Went to Dotmar and got 700mm of 50mm diameter rod. Not sure If I should of got 60mm diameter or if 50mm is ok?
If you use the right size block & fit extended bumpstop for the rear cargo area you won't have problems. If you can, try and use the same size surface area on the body block as the original body mount so you don't get any body cracking, so if yours is 50mm great, if not, you should of gone bigger
Definately don't forget the rear cargo stops if the Terrano has them, I haven't done a Terrano but every other truck I have done has needed the cargo stops increased.
u13turbo wrote:Went to Dotmar and got 700mm of 50mm diameter rod. Not sure If I should of got 60mm diameter or if 50mm is ok?
If you use the right size block & fit extended bumpstop for the rear cargo area you won't have problems. If you can, try and use the same size surface area on the body block as the original body mount so you don't get any body cracking, so if yours is 50mm great, if not, you should of gone bigger
Definately don't forget the rear cargo stops if the Terrano has them, I haven't done a Terrano but every other truck I have done has needed the cargo stops increased.
What do you mean by Cargo area stops? I think from what i measure the original mounts are 60mm... You think i should take it back and ask for an exchange on some 60mm stuff?
DieselBoy wrote:$2 at wash world then
Yeah I will do next time im in town with a spare few mins. Was'nt fun removing alternator when its covered in oil...
u13turbo wrote:What do you mean by Cargo area stops? I think from what i measure the original mounts are 60mm... You think i should take it back and ask for an exchange on some 60mm stuff?
Personally I would take the tube back and get the 60mm stuff, better safe than sorry. If you look under the rear third of the vehicle above the rear diff and under the cargo area you may have a mount from the chassis to the body that is not quite touching, that's the cargo stop..... I hope you understand my Engrish
.....other thing, drive-shaft hoop.
