V8 Land Rover project

[oldyella]

Here are the bolt in rear braces. I should have them all finished tomorrow night



At the top I welded nuts inside the main hoop and used two high tensile 1/2" bolts to bolt the top of the brace to the main hoop.


At the bottom I welded some nuts to a peice of 50 x 25mm, then drilled through the ply. A bit of plate will get welded onto the bottom of the brace, then the brace will bolt through the ply.

[oldyella]

Bolt in braces all done. Deck is now ready for paint

[lincooln]

mhmmm

[oldyella]

Got the deck and braces painted. Just need to screw everything down now then put in mud guards.

Notice the old cross member I'v cut out. Im going to get a solid 10mm job bent up to improve ground clearance while getting enough room to run the front drive shaft and exhaust over the top of the cross member.

[oldyella]

Well Im still waiting on my drive shafts and cross member... When your getting things done for boxes of beer it always takes a while

So Iv installed the rear mud flaps. Im hoping they don't go missing on the first outing...





Then I thought I would sort out the snorkel and air box. Nothing there currently.



I have a Mitzy Pajero pajero 2.8 t/d air box lying around which I'm going to modify. It needs 3" inlets and outlets welded in so no unecessary restriction introduced.

Problem was I couldn't weld the air box up with the arc, so I had a bit of a look around and found the Tool Shed were selling this for $650. Its 180A mig so should have enough grunt for bar work etc. For anything above 6mm I can still use the arc which is good up to 12mm. 12month warranty so I'll abuse it for a while to make sure the Chinese can hack it!



I'm going to make the snorkel out of 3" steel pipe. I already have the straight lengths and I will just weld in the bends...

[oldyella]

I was testing the coolant temperature sensor today so I could put the resistance at 0deg C and 100 deg C into the MS11. This is when I found it to be a straight open circuit so its stuffed. Now I'm guessing this was the cause of my problems

[91Rangie]

thats the over heat switch for the thurmo fans
the one you want is coolent thermister ontop of the manifold looks same as the one in the fuel rail and has the same plug as the injectors

[oldyella]

What an amateur

I'm planning on running a single 16inch electric fan. Would it be alright using the termo switch to switch it on and off or is the temperature it closes at to high...





Found the actual coolant temperature sensor. http://www.landroverspares.co.nz can replace it so I'll think I'll just get a new one anyway.

[Overkill]

Yeah don't use the thermo/air-con fan one, it comes on at a pretty high temp. Best way would be purchase a proper kit with a thermostat so you can adjust the on/off control of the fans.......ie: comes on at 90 degrees and off at 88-82 degress. You can't really control the fans using a temp sender only.

[Overkill]

Here's a couple of kits as examples, plus with our dollar so high they are pretty cheap

http://cgi.ebay.com/38mm-TOP-HOSE-THERM ... 20ba84d275

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-8 ... refilter=1

[smookiwi]

Just use your Megasquirt Fidle output to switch the fan off/on via a relay

[oldyella]

I just thought that switch might be a simple way but it seems not. Controlling the fan via a relay using a spare output from the MSII sounds like the go.

The FIdle port is un-used and is good for putting out 0.5A so I will use that output to the fan relay.

I'll just need to have a look into what I need to set up in the MSII set up fan control on that spare output.

[oldyella]

Took about 1/2 an hour to sort fan control using the MSII. I tested it using the simulator board. There were good instructions on how to implement it.

I can alter the turn on and off temperatures. Set to 90deg on and 80deg off at the moment. I also set it up so the fans won't run unless the revs are more than 450rpm. This means the fans won't run if the engine is off or during cranking.

I'll also install a three way switch so I can have them in Auto, on or off.

I'v been quite pleased with how easy it has been to sort the MSII so far.

[Big]

Been following ur build and I have to say, very impressed so for with MSII.. great job.

[NJV6]

Likin ya report about the MS so far Pete... Might be the next project! I have got a complete 4.6 with no computer - who did you get yours off? Sounds like they have been helpful.

Glen

[Pedro]

Likin ya report about the MS so far Pete... Might be the next project! I have got a complete 4.6 with no computer - who did you get yours off? Sounds like they have been helpful.

Glen

ordered mine from DIYautotune web site, takes a while to figure out what ya need, but i got a MS2 V3, runs stepper idle control, EDIS , (or rover)etc etc, cost $350 USD for MS2 and megastim

Pedro

[NJV6]

ordered mine from DIYautotune web site, takes a while to figure out what ya need, but i got a MS2 V3, runs stepper idle control, EDIS , (or rover)etc etc, cost $350 USD for MS2 and megastim

Pedro

Cool, whats EDIS???

The 4.6 has no dissy... Anything to do with that?

[Pedro]

ordered mine from DIYautotune web site, takes a while to figure out what ya need, but i got a MS2 V3, runs stepper idle control, EDIS , (or rover)etc etc, cost $350 USD for MS2 and megastim

Pedro

Cool, whats EDIS???

The 4.6 has no dissy... Anything to do with that?

Ah yeah....... You might want to start reading here http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm

Pedro

[Big]

lol

[flyingbrick]

I too have built a megasquirt from DIY autotune. Don't be intimidated as the on-line instructions are GREAT.

I got a free T-shirt from them too.

Get the component leg bending tool, the stimulator and a DECENT soldering iron. I bought a digital unit from dick smiths and it made things much more enjoyable- make sure you set it to the correct temp for your solder (can find this info online) and good joints are near foolproof.

ALSO, the stims 9v battery is not sufficient for anything more than very basic testing. I used an old pc power supply for a stable 12v, worked very well.

[oldyella]

Glen,

I got mine from DIY Auto tune. As mentioned it is a good time to buy with the US dollar how it is. The V3.0 is the do it yourself version.

I was a bit confused with what I needed to order at first so sent a few e-mails to there tech guy's to make sure I would get everything I needed to get a running system.

With your 4.6l the no dizzy means your MS11 configuration and tuning will be a bit more complex but there are detailed instructions. You need to look into crankangle sensors, dwell, trigging times etc but nothing a bit of reading and time wouldn't get to the bottom of.

The reason you go to all the trouble is it gives you infinate control of your timing advance instead of putting up with vacuum and mechanical timing advances. Giving you more power, torque and economy compared to a conventional dizzy.

I think im a bit jelous of the 4.6

[NJV6]

I think im a bit jelous of the 4.6

Don't be - it needs some work, it has been warm and most likely dropped a liner as they do. Its just sitting in the shed waiting for a rainy day.....

[Rotazuk]

You can run distributorless systems on an ms1 , run my suzuki and a nissan without a dissy on a ms1 chip and v3.0 board .

Cheers
Chris

[oldyella]

I have contemplated building a second engine with 4.2l or 4.6l displacement... Then I remember, it doesn't go at the moment

Coil packs on the 3.9l could be an idea if I decide I want a bit more go. or more likely get pissed off with it dying at the sight of water

Buggered around on it tonight just trying to get some half finished bits done. Flexi conju on battery cables where they go into the chassis, bolted the deck on properly.

Made a 6mm thick steel washer with a hole saw. Needed it for the panhard to steering box arrangement.

I think my drive shafts and new cross member might be ready by next weekend

[NJV6]

How ya getting on Pete...?

[oldyella]

Iv got lots of things half finished....

Bit of an update

Iv got a 10mm thick steel cross member bent up to replace the original one. It will bolt in so I can remove it then drop the gearbox out of the bottom. It gives enough clearance to run the new exhaust over the top and, gives more ground clearance Still need to add some small gussets to it I think because it has a bit of spring.



Iv also been working on the snorkel. Haven't decided if ill leave it as a stacker or not.





Iv got a fair bit of the wiring completed. The MSII computer plug is connected to the disco loom. I need to add a small fuse box to fuse the injectors, power to the computer etc yet and finish wiring the relays.



A second hand petrol FJ40 radiator courtesy of Classic Cruiser Spares is just the ticket for cooling I reacon. Its just sitting there at the moment. I will mount it via an alloy shroud. I can only use 50mm thick fans so I might try fit 4 8" ones



And my shortened drive shafts are going to be ready on Monday

So I'm still hoping I will be able to drive it one day

[niblik]

looks good bud.. if ya can, try to keep the top of the snorkel flush with the roofline as if ya drivin along a track with low slung branches and need to back up, ya could easily do yourself a mischief...

as for ya radiator fans, could you make a shroud and offset two 10" fans on a diagonal? just take into account how much airflow they'll pull. its the shroud that'll help lead the fans to give efficient airflow too.. ***edit*** something like a pair of these? (if ya have room of course..) http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 091862.htm

keep tickin away bud. its comin up mint! me likey...

[oldyella]

Yip it won't end up that high. I'v just got it tacked up to get an idea of what it would look like with a stacker. Im still wondering if I should go for a plastic hat looking thing like this



I'm trying to get lots of the time consuming bits finished up (wiring) while I put some coins aside for the exhaust... Then when it gets back from there it shouldn't be to much work to get it fired up. Hopefully with a bit more success than last time

[Overkill]

Yip it won't end up that high. I'v just got it tacked up to get an idea of what it would look like with a stacker. Im still wondering if I should go for a plastic hat looking thing like this

Check out this guy on Trademe, he has the type you are after, plus he normally stocks the "pre-cleaner" ones aswell......

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 788655.htm

[oldyella]

Thanks for the pointers fellas.

Drive shafts turned up today. The longer one (front) is a shortened rear disco driveshaft with the three bolt doughnut thingy removed and a normal series LR UJ welded in.

The rear driveshaft (stumpy) is a shortened series 2.




The angle of the rear driveshaft in resting position. Its quite steep. I suppose some testing will tell me if it will work or not.



Then I lifted up the front of the truck to check out where I should be bolting in this new 10mm cross member.



Clamped in place after whipping a bit off it. Heaps of ground clearance and plenty of room for the driveshaft.



This is the clearance for the exhaust to go over top of the new cross member along the passenger side


And the clearance on the drivers side.



The cross member has ended up slightly narrower than I need but I will try tweak it in this 6T press I brought from supercheap for $120

Once that is sorted I will add a couple of 6mm thick gussets to it and it should be just about done.