Strong IFS

[churchill]

From experience, whats the strongest IFS system readily available today? Something that could take 35's on the original steering, knuckles, bearings and cv's?

[lincooln]

Pajeros? other than that I am out of sugestions

[madmatt]

Yup, specifically the Mk II's, handle the bigger wheels easy.

[churchill]

Ah of course, Pajero. After seeing the Prado ones drop the ball joints and I wasn't keen to use them. So no front driveline problems with Pajero's?

[lincooln]

as far as I know, not really. Ours have never had problems. Others with more modified ones might know other wise though

[mudlva]

dont alter the bump stops had a mate who bought a truck with the bump stops removed and was always breaking cvs the got an old truck for parts and noticed the missing bits installed them into his truck and cvs stoped breaking something about the wheel traveling past the cv geometry or something like that any way he trashed it hard for a good year or more and they were still going good as

he then pulled the whole front end out and installed a solid axle

[churchill]

Cheers Lincoon.

Mudlva, that makes sense, I suspect he was bottoming out the cv's.

[NJV6]

Front ends are awesome, trimmed bump stops + ball joint flip + front locker + 33's + heavy chains = never damaged a thing. Some have bend steering idlers, some have done a CV but thats getting fairly brutal.

I bent the splines in the steering box and shore the teeth off the rear diff locker but the front end is still all good.

[churchill]

Wicked, thanks NVJ6.

[madlux]

had a 92 running 35's. I fliped top ball joint and used a spacer to reduce having to crank torsion bars but still had outter cv's problems, also had a 50mm body lift to help clear 35's but if i was to do it again i would just do a bigger body lift and keep torsions near factory height.

[FORGE1]

I dont know about others but I have never had any issues with my front end and I have been driving it pretty hard lately. But thats only on 32inch wheels and 3inch lift, ball joint flip.

[Drurban]

had a 92 running 35's. I fliped top ball joint and used a spacer to reduce having to crank torsion bars but still had outter cv's problems, also had a 50mm body lift to help clear 35's but if i was to do it again i would just do a bigger body lift and keep torsions near factory height.

That is a nice truck.

Yeah apart from my C.V's that click, I have had no majour Issues from the front on my truck.

[churchill]

Madlux, so you had a suspension lift? If so, how much? What was happening to your CV's?

Forge, don't lie, you've always driven it hard.

Drurban, what size tyres are you running and what year is you Mu?

NJV6, thanks.

[churchill]

Drurban, just read your signature and it says 33". Need to read more before I type...

[u13turbo]

Why not just go beam axle? to costly?

[mud_slinger]

mu front ends are strong i run 34's and haven't had issues, just keep buyin worn 2nd hand cv's thats the only issue (dont know they are stuffed til i hit 4wd and start clicking so i jus use em til they break)

[Drurban]

mu front ends are strong i run 34's and haven't had issues, just keep buyin worn 2nd hand cv's thats the only issue (dont know they are stuffed til i hit 4wd and start clicking so i jus use em til they break)

That is what I have ended up doing I just drive until something breaks.

[mud_slinger]

i buy 2nd hand factory cv's strong as hell wen they aint farked lol. my old mu ran for 4 years with 34's never broke a cv and that was some rough treatment

[NJV6]

One of our club members breaks a CV (on a Mu) almost every trip without fail!!!!

Front locka. Shatters the housings, got rings put around them to stop that then it broke the axles at the spline!!

[churchill]

Why not just go beam axle? to costly?

I'm trying to design a new "Hybrid" suspension to give the best aspects of both suspension types and need to find the right parts to make it from.

[mud_slinger]

One of our club members breaks a CV (on a Mu) almost every trip without fail!!!!

Front locka. Shatters the housings, got rings put around them to stop that then it broke the axles at the spline!!

must be a rough driver. if he ran factory ones and not cheap knock offs he'll be sweet, his best bet be to find 2nd hand factory ones as they about same price as knock offs and are alot stronger. my front locker broke a knock off in less than 5 mins and that was climbing a small incline

[crazyclark31]

One of our club members breaks a CV (on a Mu) almost every trip without fail!!!!

Front locka. Shatters the housings, got rings put around them to stop that then it broke the axles at the spline!!

must be a rough driver. if he ran factory ones and not cheap knock offs he'll be sweet, his best bet be to find 2nd hand factory ones as they about same price as knock offs and are alot stronger. my front locker broke a knock off in less than 5 mins and that was climbing a small incline

No a guy whose got a mu and he's forever breaking cv's. Has tried every type out there minus cromolly ones. has a Front lockka as well.
Have watched a guy doing hard hill climb in a pajero. Had 33s with chains on,got air under fronts,come down with power on and didn't break a thing!! Blew me away

[NJV6]

It'll be the same black LilMu we are talking about Mike...???

Chains are awesome

[crazyclark31]

It'll be the same black LilMu we are talking about Mike...???

Chains are awesome

Yeh man. Was at wiakawa hile back and he blew a cv dropping sideways into a rut. . and that was after the outers had been ringed. Think he said that was number 18 .
Yeh reckon chains are the shizz to.(used correctly)

[madlux]

churchill - lift was about 50-60mm. Cv's Kept crapping out and clicking.

[churchill]

churchill - lift was about 50-60mm. Cv's Kept crapping out and clicking.

Interesting, thats not that big.

[pjb]

Hey Churchill,
I've got 50 mm lift up front, with ball joint flip and spacers, and trimmed bump stops, 33s. Been running that set up for about 5 years without a problem.
Only problem I've got is the steering can't cope with the increased scrub radius (offset rims) when the front locker is in. If one wheel starts wanting to drive up the bank, it is impossible to steer it out. That said, have never done a tie-rod or anything...

[churchill]

Hey Churchill,
I've got 50 mm lift up front, with ball joint flip and spacers, and trimmed bump stops, 33s. Been running that set up for about 5 years without a problem.
Only problem I've got is the steering can't cope with the increased scrub radius (offset rims) when the front locker is in. If one wheel starts wanting to drive up the bank, it is impossible to steer it out. That said, have never done a tie-rod or anything...

Hey man. Interesting, I've been thinking about that and I'll definatly try and get the axis to the centre of the contact patch. Might mean using low offset wheels and bringing the top ball joint out above the wheel.

[pjb]

Bighorns use quite big positive offset rims, something like +18 or something. Upside is the a-arms extend further into the wheel, which means they are longer and get more travel. Downside is the free-wheeling hubs hang out in the breeze somewhat.

[darinz]

Why not just go beam axle? to costly?

I'm trying to design a new "Hybrid" suspension to give the best aspects of both suspension types and need to find the right parts to make it from.

That is going to be heavy? And to be frank will probably end up with the worse of both worlds.
Try searching for 'twin traction beam'and you'll find what is probably the best way of doing it and that was a factory option on alot of Ford Explorers and Ranger úp untill the early 90's.

If you want strong IFS then most are using Chevy uprights and CV's but if you are really serious then about US$15k will buy you an unbreakable (ish) IFS that will handle big hp and 42's.

Also Paj CV's are bigger than GQ Safari ones but the axles are smaller.