SJ413 Project Bogie has begun!!

[BigRedCruiser]

Hey i recently brought this sj & ALOT of parts for $500 so im a happy guy!!
Its an un-reg hack about for me that im going to A-frame around.
Its got a 2inch suspension and 2 inch body lift running on 30x10.5 inch tyres
with a rough running 1300 been roughly cut down to a ute with a rough rollcage on it
Its called project Bogie after my dog which got put down on the day i started working on it

http://s1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb4 ... n_Johnson/

(been trying for 2 nights to get the photo bucket to get the pics on here it just wont wrk)
(mayb its time for a direct from pc upload like on facebook???)

There it is all stripped out ready to go for its reconstruction. I have never done anything like this before so im real excited to get amongst it and get some experiance fixing a vehicle up

The plan is to get rid of the rust yeap theres a bit of it
put a ply roof and back onto it with a rear sliding window with a frp top both easily removed for the summer trips =)
A snorkel
bull bars front rear and possibly on the sides ( steel prices dependant)
spotties galore ( ohk only 4) haha
a boat fuel tank on the back deck
have a set of full doors and a set of half high doors for the bunny hunting trips
a perspex windscreen that can fold down ( does anyone know where to get a sheet for cheap?)
a paint job ( cant decide what color yet)
get the carby running sweet

Then possibly
A lockrite in the rear
a spring over axle lift
bigger tyres
rock lights
and who knows what else when i get more obsessd

As im totally new to this any tips/ ideas from all of you zooksperts would be awesome!!!!!!!!!

[tomsoffroad]

and who knows what else when i get more obsessd

Yip sorry to have to tell you this but ya f%$ked Welcome to sleepless nights, skinned knuckles and getting all hot and sweaty over big tyres.

[LOLYF]

(mayb its time for a direct from pc upload like on facebook???)

You mean like this?

[UBZ]

Welcome to the Zuk club

my advice would be , losse the body lift and replace the extended shackles with stock length ones.
then cut the guards to clear the tyres.

this will give you alot more stability and control off road . given the narrow track width .

transfer case gears are a must for any tyres over 30" ,
add a rear locker and you will be pretty much unstoppable .

[BigRedCruiser]

howd u get that pic to work????

Well i geuss im a zook nut then got the skinned knuckles too many sleepless nights just thinking about the thing and i am well known to stare at 4wds with big tyres

Welcome to the Zuk club

my advice would be , losse the body lift and replace the extended shackles with stock length ones.
then cut the guards to clear the tyres.

this will give you alot more stability and control off road . given the narrow track width .

transfer case gears are a must for any tyres over 30" ,
add a rear locker and you will be pretty much unstoppable .

First time iv had some one say to lower it!!
I can see where your coming from though. 2 questions though. . . . . . .
Because the body would be 4 inches lower would it make the aproach and departure angles less?
and reduce how much flex I would have?
Could i put some wheel spacers on or would that the defeat the advantage of having it so narrow? (The wheels currently rub the springs at full lock )

Thanks for the advice!!!!!

[UBZ]

First time iv had some one say to lower it!!

low is the new lift Zuks have a habit of Layin over when lifted alot

Because the body would be 4 inches lower would it make the aproach and departure angles less?

only 3" as shakle will only reduce by 1". approach angle is dictated by the springs , so shakle length and body lift won't change it. body will be lower and a bit more prone to damage.

and reduce how much flex I would have?

flex is over rated in Zuks . quite normal to lift a front wheel . locker sorts that.

Could i put some wheel spacers on or would that the defeat the advantage of having it so narrow?
(The wheels currently rub the springs at full lock )

30mm spacer or offset rims are the go , still keeps the track width narrower than most so you can still half sit on the rut.

[niblik]

a perspex windscreen that can fold down ( does anyone know where to get a sheet for cheap?)

steer clear of this idea. go glass. perspex will scratch up really easily with normal wiper use.

[BigRedCruiser]

loving all this advice another sleepless night here i come haha

alrighty glass it is then or i mite just rock the motor bike helmet they look bad ass and will keep the weight down

cool anyone know a good place to get a locker and wheel spacers for cheap?
trade me has the lokkers starting from $500

[juz]

cool anyone know a good place to get a locker and wheel spacers for cheap?
trade me has the lokkers starting from $500

Got to be worth buying from the states now? Good nz $$

http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html

[UBZ]

cool anyone know a good place to get a locker and wheel spacers for cheap?
trade me has the lokkers starting from $500

Got to be worth buying from the states now? Good nz $$

http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html

rocky road arnt knowen to be the most reliable of suppliers
.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com brought alot of bits from these guys , Sean is good the deal with.
I would weld the rear if you wernt planing on A-Framing it around.

also have a read here and here

http://www.auszookers.com
http://www.zuwharrie.com

[BigRedCruiser]

yeah it would be ideal to not be a-framing if i could afford to build a small zook sized tailer i would be but the a-frame will be good for now =)

well your lowering idea does seem convincing.

Does anyone have a lifted zook that now thinks lowering is the new lifting?
Will definately look uop all thise websites for the lokkers tonight =)

[meatc]

well your lowering idea does seem convincing.

Does anyone have a lifted zook that now thinks lowering is the new lifting?

Mine is on coils and lux axles running 33s, and it is about as low as I can get it. Front guards are cut to about 25mm below were the gaurd rolls over to the bonnet. The only real thing you gain from a lift is appraoch angle, running 31s with min lift you will still have a better approach than most stuff. Lift the fuel tank and the rear is sweet too. From memory my chassis is just under 500mm from the floor. No body lift either.

[Cameron]

might be good for a tank? I'm sure you could rig a sweet quick release setup if you wanted to go that way.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =401460479

[BigRedCruiser]

yeah i saw that fuel tank i was thinking one like that i have seen a few 20 litre plastic boat tanks on trade me i think one of those would be the winner to make it detachable then have a 10 litre jerry can (or 20) in the back for the longer trips i think that should be the winner unless any one has this setup and isnt liking it??

The nz dollar is awesome atm and a lokker is realy tempting to be honest has any one shipped one over from the u.s and know approx how much shipping is and how long itl take to get here??


I pulled the carby off last night shes greasy and sticky inside so ill clean her down in the weekend
I have been told petrol is a good cleaner for bits like that does anyone have bad feelings on that or know a better product to use?
Also i think the seals are ready to be replaced ( mite as well while iv got it all apart) would repco be an alright place to get a seal kit for it or would butlers be good? (im in chch)
Any ideas on price??

Gonna spend a big chunk on the weekend working on the carby and my mates gonna do some body work so will throw sum pics up then

[zukmeista]

I bought my lockrite off trademe. $460 and it is awesome

[DieselBoy]

Petrol is your best and cheapest fluid for cleaning stuff with. Get a big plastic tray and a stiff parts cleaning brush from Ripco and you sorted!!!

For cleaning inside carbs, a can of CRC Carb cleaner is handy. Some one once said if you have cleaner left in the can, the carbs not clean enough yet

[kernels]

Kerosene also works great as a parts cleaner, it's less volatile than petrol so it doesn't evaporate as fast and has the huge benefit of not harming O-rings and rubber seals like petrol can. I rebuilt an engine once and managed to buy a 25L drum of it somewhere, call around. Get one of those 40gal steel drums of TM for $8 and chop it at some useful height. Works much better than trying to wash parts in small plastic containers.
Good Luck
H

[BigRedCruiser]

oh sweet ill go pick up some kerosene today then!
I went and bought a carby repair kit from ripco yesterday so will attempt to pull it all apart and put it back together today.
Also got a bak bar from work and also got a rear recovery hook.
Do i want to mount it in the centre of my bar its 6mm steel or still mount it onto the chassy??? Ill be using rated bolts to hold on the bar.

Thanks for all the advice thats coming through im loving it!

[BigRedCruiser]

Well i had a decent crak at it this weekend.

Completly stripped the carby down was surprised to find alot of rust on the walls beside the butterflys that was restricting the movment of them so spent alot of time getting that off with a small file and kerosene the whole carby was filthy so alot are parts are having a soak for a clean tomorrow night.
Also got into a bit of body wrk done too.
We sanded off alot of surface rust and painted over with kill rust so hopefulli thatll help stop that.

I also tried out an awesome idea i had. Seeing stel prices are soo expensive i wanted to find a cheap way to fix the corners and while i was doing the dishes the other night whammy thought of the most ghetto style way on the planet!!
Use a baked bean tin cut down into a panel then rivet it on and bog over top
Not for those boy racers but seeing that the corners will prob get redented anyway it shuld be sweet and it actually came up alright !!!!

So alot of painting and bogging and cleaning it was a good sat!!

Now iv gotta try and put a carb back together this week and start sanding the bog.

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[Swamped]

Nice man. I've used the baked bean tin thing before too. The metal is real easy to work.

[BigRedCruiser]

yeah the baked bean tin came up quite well!!!
Done a little bit over the past week or 2.
My mate and i got a carby to run quite nicely, The one i had pulled apart wasnt that great so we ended up using a spare one i had, We used a whole lot of carb cleaner and brake cleaner and bolted her on and whammy she runs great!!!
Got a boat fuel tank on the back now with a mercury fitting all set up,

First question on the standard fuel tanks they have the fuel line that runs to the carby and fuel pump thats sweet as got that one all hokked on but there looks like there is a fuel return line (is that what it is?) Do i need to install that or can i just cap it off??

Second Question
Would the vent on the boat tank be adequate enough or will i have to make a bigger one?

Third question
Since last night when i turn the ignition on the only thing that happens is the battery light comes on
Quite frustrating!!
Any ideas?
I have checkd all the fuses they are sweet battery is still green any other ideas???

Got the bikini top delivered this week so now i kan see how it fits on and get a rear panel set up and start planning the snorkel and exhaust.
Im thinking bout making a set up like on the back of the truck aka vertical out the back it should be quite bad ass!!!

[zukmeista]

No, you need to hook up the return line to the tank. Have you checked the fusible link by the battery?

[DieselBoy]

Third question
Since last night when i turn the ignition on the only thing that happens is the battery light comes on
Quite frustrating!!
Any ideas?
I have checkd all the fuses they are sweet battery is still green any other ideas???

Do you get a click when turning the key to start??

If not, check the wire to the starter solenoid hasn't fallen off. Quite common.

If it clicks, your starters rooted.

[Terry]

The 413 and Samurais (and probably 410s?) have a known problem called "clicky starter" (Google it) - caused by the wire from the switch to the solenoid being too thin, so if your battery's at all tired not enough current gets to the solenoid, and it doesn't engage. Sounds silly, but it took ages to track down on my Samurai. The cure is to use the existing wire to the solenoid, to trigger a relay which feeds a much fatter wire from the battery to the solenoid.
There's heaps of instructions on teh interwebs - one thing I found is that if you use a 10A fuse it'll blow - the current from even a small starter like the suzuki can reach 30A, so that's the fuse you need. Kinda scary given the thin copper thread Mr Suzuki supplied to carry the current - no wonder it craps out.

The first test is to bridge the solenoid connections (I usually use pliers)and if the starter bursts into life, the starter's OK. If not, it's stuffed (assuming the battery is good and you have a good earth).
Next jumper the solenoid direct from the battery - if it works, your not getting a "go" from the ignition switch - time to try the relay solution. If it doesn't work, your solenoid's probably had it...
Watch out for moving bits when you test starters, and make sure it's out of gear...
hope that helps a bit... cheers,
Terry

[BigRedCruiser]

thanks heaps for the info guys!

Yeap turns out the wire had fallen off the solinoid quite embarrasing spent 2 hours looking for it but shes running great now!!!

Alright il fit the return line into the tank then.
Any ideas how to do it???

[zukmeista]

Drill and tap a hole in the tank, screw a barb in and glue it up just to be sure.

[BigRedCruiser]

got all the fuel system all set up this weekend and got the beast running.
Shes idling at around 2300rpm and wont go down. But is running alright nd starts pretty well.
Any ideas??
Also thinking my mighty beast might have a crack in the head or the head gasket
There is oil in the radiator and water in the oil and craploads of steamcoming out of the exhaust.
Any way to check what is the prob without having to pull it apart or is that engine buggered????

[mercutio]

that sounds very much like a head gasket to me sorry dude

[BigRedCruiser]

dam soo new engine time??? i tred it again and there is a slight nocking noise coming from it rather gutted bout this but heck thats life ae.
Anyone know of a cheap good g13a in or around chch??
Or should i use this op to go with something bigger and better??

[lincooln]

g16a, they cheap engines. bit more poke for bit more fun.