Workshop Wisdom

Garage talk. Anything from mounting a winch to water proofing the electrics.
taz01
Tazzles
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Re: Workshop Wisdom

Post by taz01 »

you forgot...
woman: whom politely offers suggestions whilst struggling with unmovable object ....you then abuse by telling her to FARK OFF BACK TO THE KITCHEN then relise in your haste you now will not recieve sex for the next month.... :shock: :shock:
WARNING:
Insanity has replaced reason in the modification of this vehicle

you can follow me, but its gunna hurt
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De-Ranged
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Re: Workshop Wisdom

Post by De-Ranged »

Sadam_Husain wrote:Take 2 steps back :mrgreen:


some people will know what that means :lol:


I'm guessing this is too give you room to swing the impromptu hammer properly :wink:
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Filthy4x4
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Re: Workshop Wisdom

Post by Filthy4x4 »

Law of mechanics:

Once your hands become covered in grease, your nose will itch and you have to piss...

:lol: :lol:
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Bubba
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Re: Workshop Wisdom

Post by Bubba »

Trying is the first step to failure
Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
Benjamin Franklin
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PR
In the crap again
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Re: Workshop Wisdom

Post by PR »

Bubba wrote:Trying is the first step to failure

Second step listening to Taz
Its NOT a whale !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! more like a large seal

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GTS
Driver/Navigator
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Re: Workshop Wisdom

Post by GTS »

if you take a full back swing above your head with a hammer and when the hammer gets to where your fingers are and it dosnt hurt because the hammer head is no longer with the handle think quick!!
boon
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Re: Workshop Wisdom

Post by boon »

Pick-a-part: The antidote to a too-big hammer session (is there such a thing?)
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luckyme
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Re: Workshop Wisdom

Post by luckyme »

mylux wrote:Common Tools Explained
To the unitiated, the workshop can be an intimidating place, full of tools you may not know what to do with. To help, here's a helpful explanation of common tools and their uses.

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned cleco calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh sh*t!"
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.
SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
WELDING GLOVES:
Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bum per.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4:
Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminium sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
See hacksaw.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
DAMMIT TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.


that just topped the long weekend, thx mylux :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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