Another Terrano Auto Trans Thread

[The Stranger]

Ok, so having got the engine running sweet with an intercooler and water injection I'm towing the boat up north on Friday and all of a sudden we lose all drive. No loud bang, no warning, just gone. Got no drive in any gear.
We left it up there, hooked the boat to another vehicle and had our holiday.

So - I'm guessing it's the auto trans, but i just wanted to get opinions from those in the know. Most of the posts I have seen here have indicated that they lost a gear or two or it was slipping etc etc. I haven't noticed anyone else have a sudden complete loss of drive.
Is this common?
Any ideas what has gone and what to look for (to confirm what it is), because it's a pain to get it to a shop?

[slide]

I'm guessing torque convertors let go.
But 1st up check fluid level,
check if driveshafts spinning (bad diff), or that the 4x4 lever hasn't been bumped into neutral (sillier things have happened).
I'm thinking you're gunna need a tow tho...

[The Stranger]

I'm guessing torque convertors let go.
But 1st up check fluid level,
check if driveshafts spinning (bad diff), or that the 4x4 lever hasn't been bumped into neutral (sillier things have happened).
I'm thinking you're gunna need a tow tho...

Checked the drive shaft/diff and the 4x4 leaver - all good.
Spoke to auto trans guys, they say sounds like torque converter as all drive has been lost and there is no noise from the trans when in any of the gears.
So - how hard is it to get the trans out of this thing?
Do the torsion bars have to come out?

[ArvinSlayer]

have u changed ure tranny oil recently? mine did tht once, hada get it towed it home. but i changed the tranny filter and flushed and oiled it up, it was sweet. Hope it helps

Arvin

[The Stranger]

have u changed ure tranny oil recently? mine did tht once, hada get it towed it home. but i changed the tranny filter and flushed and oiled it up, it was sweet. Hope it helps

Arvin

Went to synthetic fluid 10,000km ago - and run a decent size cooler.

[slide]

So - how hard is it to get the trans out of this thing?
Do the torsion bars have to come out?

Yea, thats the easiest way.. Depends how much gear you've got access to tho.
I would say remove torsions and crossmembers, then drop box straight out (undo all other stuff 1st obviously).
Good luck if you don't have a hoist and gearbox lift. Those things are heavy!

[nztimr33]

yes the torsion bars have to come out and yes they are faaaaaaaaarking heavy! took 4 of us at work to lift one onto a transmission jack with some difficulty!

[The Stranger]

Good luck if you don't have a hoist and gearbox lift. Those things are heavy!

and yes they are faaaaaaaaarking heavy! took 4 of us at work to lift one onto a transmission jack with some difficulty!

Yet they regularly blow up - go figure.

[nztimr33]

Yet they regularly blow up - go figure.

Handy isn't it lol

[The Stranger]

So - how hard is it to get the trans out of this thing?
Do the torsion bars have to come out?

Yea, thats the easiest way.. Depends how much gear you've got access to tho.
I would say remove torsions and crossmembers, then drop box straight out (undo all other stuff 1st obviously).
Good luck if you don't have a hoist and gearbox lift. Those things are heavy!

Ok, so most of the way there, but can anyone offer any guidance on disconnecting the transfer control lever please?

[slide]

Ok, so most of the way there, but can anyone offer any guidance on disconnecting the transfer control lever please?

The easiest way is to undo the 2 12mm head bolts that hold pivot bracket on housing, then lower lever down.
I've found not to try to undo the knuckle bolts (with lil rubber boot over them) as they always seem to be more hassle that way.
Be wary of big washer when you undo pivot bracket thingy, don't loose it.
(easy not to notice it there).
Hope that helps ya
Nath

[crazyclark31]

prob bit late now but i've always found way easier to take motor out. Not under truck tring to wrestle with big trans. just remove rad,unplg some wires,disconnect throttle,undo some bolts and out it comes.easy as.
Anyhoo, hope you get it sorted and it an easy(ish) fix.

[The Stranger]

prob bit late now but i've always found way easier to take motor out. Not under truck tring to wrestle with big trans. just remove rad,unplg some wires,disconnect throttle,undo some bolts and out it comes.easy as.
Anyhoo, hope you get it sorted and it an easy(ish) fix.

Yeah, bit late now but you still got to take the trans out anyway right?
I stripped the spline inside the torque converter, so all the metal is in the fluid and the pump pumps it around the trans and through the cooler etc. So the whole lot needs cleaning and flushing anyway.

All up about 3k. Reco torque converter and tranny and a shift kit - and straighten the rear and rebalance front and rear drive shafts.
Rear shaft had a big (fresh) dent. The transporter has no idea how it got there of course.
Hope it lasts another 200k.

[The Stranger]

Can anyone tell me where I may get a listing of bolt torque settings for my WD21 please?
More specifically I am after the setting for the torque converter-flex plate bolts, but wouldn't mind any and all associated with auto trans installation e.g. bell housing, starter motor, transfer case, drive shafts etc.

I'm happy to buy a manual if there is one about that anyone is aware of.

Whilst we're at it, how the hell do you torque up the torque converter - flex plate bolts? with the engine sump on it's pretty darn difficult.

[The Stranger]

Can anyone tell me where I may get a listing of bolt torque settings for my WD21 please?
More specifically I am after the setting for the torque converter-flex plate bolts, but wouldn't mind any and all associated with auto trans installation e.g. bell housing, starter motor, transfer case, drive shafts etc.

I'm happy to buy a manual if there is one about that anyone is aware of.

Whilst we're at it, how the hell do you torque up the torque converter - flex plate bolts? with the engine sump on it's pretty darn difficult.

[The Stranger]

Ok, maybe others can benefit from my experiences here.
1) If someone says it'll be about $1 - 1.2k labour to remove and reinstall the trans that is a reasonable price.
2) Ok, I know there is debate on the web about best practise re auxiliary coolers - take it from me, BYPASS THE FACTORY COOLER. If you have any doubt I invite you to come and flush my factory cooler - I still can't get it to flow adequately. Incidentally, this was also the advice of the guys that rebuilt my trans.
3) It's fairly simple to fit an external filter and oil temperature gauge - much simpler and cheaper than replacing the trans I assure you.

[kiwipete]

Ok, maybe others can benefit from my experiences here.
1) If someone says it'll be about $1 - 1.2k labour to remove and reinstall the trans that is a reasonable price.
2) Ok, I know there is debate on the web about best practise re auxiliary coolers - take it from me, BYPASS THE FACTORY COOLER. If you have any doubt I invite you to come and flush my factory cooler - I still can't get it to flow adequately. Incidentally, this was also the advice of the guys that rebuilt my trans.
3) It's fairly simple to fit an external filter and oil temperature gauge - much simpler and cheaper than replacing the trans I assure you.

This is all your factory cooler is, I cannot see how it becomes blocked?

Bit I do agree with the installation of an after market cooler all the same.
My after market cooler is in line with the factory one and all is fine.

[The Stranger]

I do hear you kiwipete - and I didn't believe that it would block so pit the aux cooler after the factory cooler. I was aware of a few pitfalls in doing this. One is claimed blockages, the other being that in heavy load situations heat from one source (either engine or trans) can cause failure in the other as it effecively causes a chain reaction.
That said the fact remains that the factory cooler is now significantly blocked. The auto trans guys said it will be the old clutch lining and the lining from the lockup torque converter, which they advised was nearly completely gone.
New lining is supposedly Kevlar.

[The Stranger]

My after market cooler is in line with the factory one and all is fine.

yep, mine was too - all fine, right up till it blew.

[The Stranger]

I recently fitted an oil temp gauge to the trans and am running only an aux cooler (i.e. not the original in radiator cooler).
Here's my random observations.
1) I drove from Auckland to Hamilton this morning. Temperature never exceeded 54c on teh way down. Mostly varied from 52-54.
2) Temp climbs quickly around town upto 80c.
3) When the temp gets up there (around town), it takes a long time to come down. The quickest way to get it down is to drive at 80+ kph. Anything less than that and cooling appears to be very minimal.
4) Once temp did get down on the return it didn't go less than 62c on the return trip. It would appear that this would about be the change in ambient temperature.

I assume from all of this is that when the torque converter is locked a lot less heat is being generated.