Zuk on 38's

[Tan Zuk]

Its the little things that help the most. I find using wood and cardboard for mockup is very cheap and less time consuming to use. If it doesn't work out no big deal.

I even machine up my proto type pieces from wood first. Just to make sure they work out.


Wood Extended High Steer Arm





Finished Piece

[Tan Zuk]

Here is another thing I have not seen mentioned either. It is very important to get your suspension setup correctly.

Most of us have the Rig stripped down when we are setting it up for the new mods.

This is a Big Problem.

When you stick everything back in it the suspension you worked so hard to setup is not where you thought it was going to be setting. It is important to add weight back into the vehicle.

Try to add the weight where the parts are to be located.

This was my list:

1. Add sand bags to the inside to compensate for the parts that were missing. I got these cheap at Home Depot.

2. Add weights to the front extension to compensate for a front bumper. This is very important if you are going with a winch.

3. Add weights to the engine compartment for the missing engine.

Here is a pic of what it looks like.

[Tan Zuk]

Here is another example of not spending money on parts until I have a good idea that it is going to work.

Using materials I had laying around the shop consisting of:

Conduit Pipe
Duct Tape (used to wrap the threads on the Heims for a tight fit)
Masking Tape
Cardboard
Couple of 2x4 Wood Pieces
Couple old Heims from an old project.
2 old 5/8 Bolts

This was used to help me layout the Panhard Bar

Here is a pic Marked in detail to show you what was used.







After looking at the above example I thought I should show the parts in their proper position. This will give you a better idea what I was using them for.

[chrome]

one of the best written threads i have seen in a long time
and that willys is pretty cool

[Tan Zuk]

one of the best written threads i have seen in a long time
and that willys is pretty cool

chrome, Thanks for the kind words. Just trying to pass on some ideas and how to accomplish some difficult situations.

[Tan Zuk]

Since there are members with SJ 413, this next group of postings may be of help.

I will keep the Tip Theme continuing

Here are a couple more tips when rebuilding the motor:

Oil Pressure Fittings.

I thought that I would add this because it really isn't covered much. The oil pressure fittings on top of the oil filter are NOT standard pipe threads. I have read on several posts that it is OK to just thread your accessory oil line in and there is no problem.

CAUTION:
You are asking for trouble if it decides to let go. You are just cross threading it in and the only thing that is really holding it in is the taper.

If you are rebuilding the motor it would be a good time to do this. I would not advise doing it with the motor in the Zuk because of the metal shavings that will get in the motor.

I wanted to see how many chips would actually get in there while I was doing it on the engine stand with the motor positioned like in the pic but facing the floor. This is the hard way but I wanted the chips to fall out by gravity also. I used grease on the tap. I also made an extension for the vacuum and sucked out everything I thought. Well, that long oil passage that runs from end to end still had some chips in it. I had to use a bore brush to get them out.

I would only suggest re tapping them at rebuild.

If you are planning on an oil pressure line. I read that there are adapters from the stock thread to a NPT. I haven't got any PN's or have I tried to find any

[Tan Zuk]

Priming a new motor build with oil

I have been a Chevy motor guy for awhile now and have built up a few motors. You can use the distributor pickup drive adapter to spin to prime the motor. This is simple enough.

I was very concerned about starting what is known as a dry engine. The Zuk motor has no real way except the starter motor to do this priming, The problem with that is it spins a bit too fast, it will cause friction and you still really don't have any oil in the areas that are critical.

I did find a work around. Not the best way and it is messy and a bit time consuming.

Better safe than sorry.

I pulled the plug fitting off the pass side oil pump and threaded a pipe fitting with a 3/8 hose end on it.

CAUTION:
You have to be careful treading the fitting in because the threaded hole is a (BSPT) British Standard Pipe Taper thread. Put some thread sealant on it and just snug it. Then pump in 2 or 3 quarts of oil.

I used a suction pump I got at Harbor Freight.

This will push oil up through all the passages. When you have finished (this is the messy part) take the fitting out and reinstall the plug and use thread sealant on the threads. This should also fill up the oil filter as well. I also put oil in the filter and let it set for a while to let it soak the oil up and then install. Be sure you do this before the priming is done.

Then put the remaining quarts you have left in the oil fill in the valve cover. Now you can use the starter motor

CAUTION: DO NOT continually crank the starter!! Do it in intervals you can still create heat.

It is still not going to pump up immediately but everything that is critical should be coated from the priming you just did and the assembly lube that I hoped you used.

I did mention earlier about those oil plugs that need to be re threaded above the oil filter to NPT. It would be a good idea to install an oil pressure gage in one of those holes now to monitor when you get oil pressure.

(THIS WILL STILL NOT SHOW UP IMMEDIATELY BE PATIENT)

CAUTION: BE SURE TO PULL COIL WIRE BEFORE CRANKING THE STARTER.

When you get the pressure it is now safe to start. Run at about 2000 RPM for 20 min for break in.

The pic will have an arrow at which plug to use to prime with.

[Tan Zuk]

Motor Tips Continued

Hybrid Motor Parts Match

Which ever block you are using. (Use that head gasket)

When using a1.6 Head on a 1.3 use this Distributor combination:
1.3 Dizzy
1.3 Dizzy Housing

Press the 1.6 Dizzy Drive Gear off the Cam and install the 1.3 Dizzy Drive Gear or you will have premature wear of the Dizzy.

Note:

There is a difference in length of the gears. You can tell by looking in the Housing Bore. The gear will look like it is extended too far in the Housing Bore if you have the wrong one.

You will need to use the 1.3 Front Timing Gear on the cam.



CATION When Purchasing A New Head:

It is not easy to find a good head. These motors were made to eat themselves especially the head. When I bought my first (New Zuk in 87) the joke was they had a 50 Thousand mile Throw Away Motors in them.

More than likely someone is going to sell you something that has oversized cam journals in it. They don't have cam bearings to replace you have to send them out and get them machined for the new selves they sell. The way I found this out I had a few merchants sell me bad heads. I have the equipment to check the bores and they were oversize and I sent them back. This was after spending time talking to them on the phone and asking this specific question about the oversized conditions before purchase. Be prepared for a lot of smoke being blown up your ### from some of these merchants.


Hope This One Helps.

This info I have not come across in any of the research I have done in several years. I had to learn the hard way.

[Tan Zuk]

Ok, I will take a break from the tips.

I have a DD TT and it gets BAD road noise and when it rains it sounds like a tin shed. I knew that I was going to address this problem in the new Rig by installing Dynamat.

Here are a few pics of the new interior and the Dynamat process. I found by working in smaller pieces and get it pressed down tightly was the better way (JUST MY OPINION).

The firewall front cab and tunnel was a challenge. I also did the inside of the doors and inner panels.

Painted Interior





Roof DynaMat





Driver Side Rear Inner Panel DynaMat





Driver Side Panel & Seat





Headliner






PS Front Panel





Rear Panel





Rear Mounting Panel Bracket Front





Rear Mounting Panel Bracket Side

[Tan Zuk]

I had an 8” drop for my steering. This ended up being a 13 degree drag link angle. The Rig will see mostly street use as you know and that much angle would be way too much.

Here was the solution I came up with.

1” drop FJ80 Steering Box
Box DS Frame Rail 1/4x5x24 Plate top, bottom, both sides
TG Drop Pitman Arm
4” Custom Extended Arm
TG 6 Shooters
Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket

With these mods I was able to achieve a 5 degree Drag Link and Panhard bar angle. This was now a safe, clean and expectable mod. IMHO

This is a closer view of the Extension and the Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket and in different views to give a better perspective. I believe that I have got them clearanced so there will not be any interference. I will have to start cycling the suspension just to double check.

The 6 Shooter arm added to the Extension will be Tig welded by a Pro down the street. The welds will be smoothed out on the bottom for the
Anti-Rotation Deflection Bracket mouning surface. This gets bolted in place with a 9/16 Grade 8 bolt on the arm and (2) ½ Grade 8 socket head bolts on the ears. There will be 2 additional 90 degree gussets welded to the bottom side for piece of mind.


I got this done on Friday thought I would share some pics.


Marked View





Front View





Side View

[Tan Zuk]

Here is some info on the rear 3” extension:

Thought this needed to be added first. It takes quite a while to save money and build your new project as you all know. With the economy being so bad and merchants closing down this is what happened to me.

I was buying parts as a group front end first which included some 4.5 Lift Rear Rubicon YJ’s for the front. I got the front suspension in and was going to order parts for the rear. To my surprise Rubicon was under restructure and no one new if or when they were going to be offering parts again.

That really knocked the wind out of the build until I could get a rear set of springs. After looking at what the aftermarket had to offer the decision was to have a custom set made. They did a good job and got them to me on time. The order was for a pair of 4.5 Lift Springs center pinned. When I went to in stall them they were not the same amount of lift as the fronts. (Just another snag that I will use it as a positive) It will be less stiff in the back know.

It all worked out in the end I just had to make some adjustments in the length of the new rear shackle mounts and some added ¼ plate for structure support.

The pics are marked in detail.

Rear Front Mount Marked




Back Side Rear Front Mount






Inside View Rear Mount






Back View Rear Mount






Outside View Rear Mount

[Tan Zuk]

Here is some info on the rear 3” extension:

Thought this needed to be added first. It takes quite a while to save money and build your new project as you all know. With the economy being so bad and merchants closing down this is what happened to me.

I was buying parts as a group front end first which included some 4.5 Lift Rear Rubicon YJ’s for the front. I got the front suspension in and was going to order parts for the rear. To my surprise Rubicon was under restructure and no one new if or when they were going to be offering parts again.

That really knocked the wind out of the build until I could get a rear set of springs. After looking at what the aftermarket had to offer the decision was to have a custom set made. They did a good job and got them to me on time. The order was for a pair of 4.5 Lift Springs center pinned. When I went to in stall them they were not the same amount of lift as the fronts. (Just another snag that I will use it as a positive) It will be less stiff in the back know.

It all worked out in the end I just had to make some adjustments in the length of the new rear shackle mounts and some added ¼ plate for structure support.

The pics are marked in detail.

Rear Front Mount Marked




Back Side Rear Front Mount






Inside View Rear Mount






Back View Rear Mount






Outside View Rear Mount

[Tan Zuk]

Going to include this info in this thread. This info seems to be very well appreciated on ZuWharrie and ZukiKrawler and was moved to sticky’s shortly after posting. Hope that you get something out of it as well.

The trans is not talked about too much and being in the process of rebuilding the one going in this build. Thought it would be a good time to share a few tips and tools that were picked up on in a couple of pervious rebuilds.

Reference Rebuild Info:

This is a good step by step and pics
http://www.geerdijk.com/files/suzuki/tranny_rebuild.pdf

The FSM will be needed for a few things that were not covered.


This is my minimum parts list and parts # from LROR.

1----STM-ISR-----------Samurai Transmission Front Input Housing Bearing Retainer
2----STM-CRSB--------Samurai Clutch Release Shaft (throwout) Bushing
1----STM-TNB----------Samurai Transmission Needle Bearings
1----STM-RRTB--------Suzuki Samurai Transmission Tail Shaft Bushing
1----STM-UTM---------Unbreakable Rear Transmission Mount
1----SDT-TBS----------Samurai Transmission Shifter Bolt 86-89
1----STM-TIP-----------Samurai Timing Inspection Plug
1----SDT-TMBN--------Samurai Nylatron Transmission Shifter Bushing
1----STM-RKS----------Samurai Transmission Rebuild Kit w/ Syncros And Silicone
1----STM-CRSOS-----Clutch Release Shaft (Throwout) Oil Seal


There are a few grey areas I will try and shed some light on.

The countershaft installation is one of those grey areas. This is the procedure that works well with a press, mallet, couple of sockets and a piece of pipe.

Pics are marked in detail

[Tan Zuk]

Here is another one of those gray areas that I will walk you through.

Rear Tailshaft Bushing is something that is probably overlooked.

A couple of reason for changing it are:

There always seems to be metal shavings on the rear tialshaft bearing location flange. The worn out bushing seems to be causing this problem.

The worn out bushing will also cause the driveshaft to have excess runout and will cause the seal to leak prematurely.

The pics are marked in order of removal and install.

[Overkill]

WOW, amazing build and write up.....you fella have MAD SKILLS

[Tan Zuk]

Here is a Tip that has been around for a long time. Never tried it before because of the extra time involved to make it.

The last trans rebuild the case bolts seemed to be a problem keeping sorted for the proper hole locations. This is because there are different lengths and different types of items attached to them. They also tend to roll around on the bench which causes them to get mixed up.

Decided to give the block of wood with holes drilled a try. It is to keep the appropriate bolts in order and location they were removed from. Wanted to pass this on because it had worked so well. The bolts had better manners this time and are going to be very easy now to install.

Definitely worth the extra time to make.

Pic is of a 4x4 Block of scrap wood and 5/16 holes drilled for the bolts 3” deep. The holes were put in to match the bolts in the separate sections of the housing during disassembly.

[Tan Zuk]

Clutch Fork Bushing removal tool consisting of:

How to make a tool

How to use the tool

Bushing Removal and Install Instructions


The info was getting much too long to make it interesting. It is now in a much shorter format with a lot of detail for completing this task.

Pics are posted in order and marked with instructions.

This tool and process has been used several times. Just hope it isn’t too confusing on the instructional part of it.

[Tan Zuk]

Found after disassembly the instructions seemed a bit sketchy for reassembly. Thought a more detailed assembly process and the Special Tools would shed some light on the gray areas that I had experienced. Hope these couple of transmission tips were helpful and will be moving back on to fab work again.

Note: (IMO)
The special tools that were used can be made without too much trouble. The Small Vise that was used is a CHEAP 3” Vise that can be found at Enco.

No responce for this to be in the Tech Section so this is where it will stay.

Here are the last 2 tools that were used.

[Tan Zuk]

Some progress. The blending of welds takes a long time. I prefer that look because the parts look like a stamped piece.

Reminder Before Panhard Mount




Panhard Mount welded up and sleeves were added for strength. The welds were smoothed out still have to pop a 3/4 hole for the Heim Joint. There will also be a Bumpstops mount added to the bottom. Bumpstops on order should get them this week.

The parts were also painted with welder’s primer before tacking together..







Here is the HS Extension clearanced for full steering. Still needs to be welded on. Making triple sure that everything is working before this is done.

[Tan Zuk]

Here is a very rough idea of what I have in mind. I agree with the Bumpstop pressure with the angle as I need it. I have several triangulated basketry and a stabilizer DOM bar. The bar is another thing in the making it needs to function around the steering arm and not bump into the tire at full lock.

This is probably why I never came across this setup when researching the subject. There is a lot going in 1 place.

I will be adding the brace to the other side as we discussed earlier. It will need to have some Heim joints so I can remove it. I want to put the engine and trans in from the bottom because of the height issue. This bar will be tied in to a much beefier bumpstop mount on the passenger side.


To be honest I have tried to get the spring to go down 3" using my engine hoist and some ratchet straps and I haven't got there yet. Don't know how often they will actually come in contact.

[Tan Zuk]

Have some updates with pics


Doing a little flexing to get the proper setting for the DS suspension components. The front shackle is at 46* and the DS leaf is getting close to a flat position. This is where I will set the bumpstop contact point.

The shocks still have 2” of up travel to go. The clearance between the Panhard Mount and the (shock forward movement is 1.5”).

To be honest I was more concerned of the shock hitting the mount at full flex because the shock moves forward and the mount is stationary. Worked out and even have enough room for the head of a ¾ bolt to fit.

Loaded the weight of the motor back in the engine bay also. This brought my steering rod angles in at 3*. Shouldn’t see any bumpsteer with those angles.

The suspension parts have been made for a while now. They are now going through the altering stage for better clearances or better ideas as more of the parts are added and watching the suspension cycle.

I have decided to remove the Heim joint from the PS Panhard Bar. This will be replaced with a sleeve to accept a pair of leaf spring bushings welded to the Panhard Bar.

The reason for the change:

The Panhard Bar has a 5* bend in it and it tends to want to flop back and forth this will eliminate this issue. Really didn’t want to hear that noise when I was driving either. This will also make what movement there is with suspension cycling not as rigid.

This means I will have to modify the PS Panhard Bar Mount for the larger sleeve bushing and offset the front portion for new alignment.

These types of changes add a lot of time probably why it seems like there isn’t much progress made. There are a lot of factors to take into consideration especially when you start cycling the suspension. Better to catch the issues now then be non flexible with your design and have to do it all over again later.

This particular area of the build has taken me 6 month to engineer and make the parts. It's finally time to start burning in parts.

[Jafa]

Thats pretty damn cool! Nice fab skills, I'd expect nothing less from a fellow toolmaker and CNC jockey
Look forward to seeing some flex pics

[rokhound]

I was going to add "I hope this not going for NZ cert with welded steering components" but when I actually opened my eyes I see you are in the US.
As Jafa said, real sexy fab

[tomsoffroad]

As the others said. Thats awesome. Love it

[Tan Zuk]

Thats pretty damn cool! Nice fab skills, I'd expect nothing less from a fellow toolmaker and CNC jockey
Look forward to seeing some flex pics

Thanks Jafa for the compliments. Its nice to talk with a fellow machinist. I get some #### about being a perfectionist on this build. Don't have to explain to you that doing the job correct is just part of being a machinist.

The Rig wasn't designed for maxium flex for rock crawling. It would be very hard to find any rocks in Florida. Mostly flat with just mud holes, lakes and a lot of sand. The Rig hasn't got the drop shackles on it either and the max flex with a hoist was about 14".

[Tan Zuk]

I was going to add "I hope this not going for NZ cert with welded steering components" but when I actually opened my eyes I see you are in the US.
As Jafa said, real sexy fab

That is a good point on the welded extended steering arm. I personally don't like to have welded steering arms either.

There was a lot of research done on materials and good welding properties. The 6 shooter arm is made of 8620 forged steel. I would have made the new arm from that material. It is very hard to find a business to sell you a small piece of forged steel.

The choice was to use the same 8620 material which is very strong not being forged and weld it to the stronger arm. This material has very good welding properties and needs to be preheated before welding.

The forged arm also has all the locating holes for mounting and the trunion bearing stud. This was also why the choice was made for welding the 2 pieces together.

Hope that helped in easing your concerns.


BTW Thanks for the compliments

[Tan Zuk]

As the others said. Thats awesome. Love it

tommsoffroad, I've seen you posted before thanks for taking the time to follow my build. Very happy that you are enjoying what has been done.

[Tan Zuk]

Really don't mind if you ask questions.

[Tan Zuk]

Got this PM Question on another one of my build threads and wanted to share it with you, it went like this:

Just wanted to know if you ran into any problems with the offset rear zuki axle from trail gear?

I heard that the axle sits really low in the housing and it rubs?

Also some problems with bolting up the diff? Holes not lining up?
************************************************** ********

I have bought quite a few Trail Gear parts so I’m not going to bash them. That being said I had experienced the holes not lining up on the Diff and Housing.

This is not my fist go around on this type of problem. General you have to tap the studs around a little to get the parts to go together. After spending ½ hour with a loaded diff with 528 gears There was no way they were going together. I decided to buy a diff gasket and see what the problem was. That was a lot easier then messing with the heavy Diff. I found that some of the stud locations were a little off.

I was totally shocked because they both came from Trail Gear. I mentioned that I’m a machinist and when I make a bolt pattern in a matching set of parts. They fall together like one piece.

I decided to give TG a call. I had to go through several people until I got someone that new of the issue. I had to be very persistent on this and it was lucky I had my machining background so there was not much smoke being blown up my ###.

After they acknowledged the issue they were very easy to get along with and wanted me to send the Diff back overnight and they would open the holes up and overnight it back at their cost.

I thought that was very good business on there part. I declined because I had the diff already built like I mentioned. I told them I would just machine the holes myself. I was just happy that I could get then to come clean on the problem. They also said that they were on the problem and would be taking care of it immediately.

Just wanted to say with all the building of Hot Rods, Custom Motorcycles and Off Road Rigs that I have done through out the years. There aren’t too many parts that I have purchased that didn’t need some type of rework. That’s what is known as the fun in the build.. I’m just glad that I have the equipment for those times.

I have no problems continuing purchasing from Trail Gear.

[Tan Zuk]

tomsoffroad, I was going through some of the Suzuki threads and came across your quote in the Supercharger GSXR setup. I hope you don't mind, didn't want to get tied up in a long discussion on that thread.

I had a play around with quad carbs off a gxr1100 on a 1600cc Escort for a customer years ago (well I built the inlet manifold anyways ) He had problems with fuel delivery The bike carbs didn't like being feed fuel at pressure other than gravity pressure. I think he got around it with a surge tank in engine bay and gravity feeding the carbs. Not before he had a rather large fire tho
Food for thought

Thought I may be able to help out in a bit of the Voodoo of the GSXR Carb setup being I spent 2 years researching this mod before attempting it.

The better carb choice is from the GSXF from the Katana.

The Hybrid motor that I built is very heavily modified and the 1.3 short block was used because it has a stronger bottom end. My choice was to go with the 600cc carbs which are 32mm so there would be some type of reasonable gas consumption. The 1.6 head has 32mm intake ports so the runners of the intake are 32mm along with the carbs. It is now a straight even flow without having to taper the runners for the larger carbs. I have seen the 750cc carbs used as well and are 36mm. This would require a tapered bore and 5 to 6 miles more per gallon of consumption.

With the carbs being gravity feed as you mentioned there is a work around.

Use a 1998 Jeep CJ7 L6 4.2 Liter 2BBL by pass fuel filter run the by pass hose back to the tank. This hose will need to be fitted with a restrictor that will let you have a constant 2 to 2.5 psi of flow to the carbs and the rest runs back into the fuel tank. The restrictor size for reference on my setup was .136 thousands of an inch. You will also need a low pressure electric fuel pump around 3 to 4psi.

Here are a couple of examples:







This is not a cheap way to go. The jetting and the tuning equipment are expensive. You will also need a decent set of carbs to start with, which are not cheap or there will be troubles. Most of all as mention there was 2 years of research before I decide to do mine. There are a lot of secrets that are not discussed either.

This is just a bit of info that looked like it needed to be shared for those willing to take the plung.