The wax terrano

[kbjj]

Hey how do you adjust the caster in these things ??

From memory, where the top A arm pivot bolts to the chassis, it has spacers/shims between it and the chassis.
Jeremy

[wax]

That does camber. Im not sure that they do caster with it

[slide]

I'm pretty sure (but could be wrong) that caster is adjusted by putting different thickness shims in front/rear of each top arm inner bolt. Which will effectivly move balljoint forward/back. Ok for small adjustment, but don't know if having big differences in shim thickness would be good for bolts etc.
Of course this will also change camber, but yea, think thats how its done

[sibainmud]

Yeah, different shims in front or rear bolts change caster. T2 had longer bolts installed in left side to allow for the huge amount of shims needed
I have taken it through 2 wheel alignments since and have pulled shims out both times

Cheers,

[wax]

Bugger that. Im going to make the strut bar adjustable so I can crank some caster into the thing. It will also stop the issue with them destroying the frame as well when the bushes wear.

[wax]

On another note. I decided to pull the wide body flares off it.
Instant lift looks heaps better tyres sit better on car. Win win win

[wax]

Well I made a clamp to hold my steering damper on. All I can say is wow. This has made a massive difference to the car. its a great thing to do if you havent done it the question is why ??

[wax]

Here is my thoughts on fixing the strut bar wearing on these things. It will also allow me to adjust the caster as well. These are off a 32 skyline and its there control arms.
The centre adjuster is not there of course and I will make it our of steel. I dont think the alloy skylines will take the load.

[sibainmud]

Good work on the steering dampener.
I'm a bit lost when you say strut shaft. Do you mean upper control arm pivot shaft or the lower radius shaft?

Cheers,

[wax]

I guess im talking about the lower rod.
Americans call it the compression rod. It goes back to a bush on the chassis but I see them always flogged out and mine is damaged. If the rod was adjustable you will get a good caster adjustment as well. Im planing on going back to a rose joint to give it the movement with out the wearing out issue.
Well thats the plan anyway.
Cheers for the heads up on the steering bracket

[sibainmud]

Oh, the one in the middle photo on page 5, but not broken
Proper name; Radius arm shaft and bushes
I have fitted several new ones of those and have new nolathane bushes as spares. last ones i replaced, i fitted extra washers to make more squish. They only last a year or so with my abuse.

Cheers

[wax]

Ok so something like this. But not as expensive. Just weld a good soild plate across where the cups normally go and jobs done. Assuming lengths are right of course. Instant caster adjustment, cranking in some caster will give the terrano so real road manners as well as being very strong offroad

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R31-Cazman-C ... 3804wt_962

[wax]

Yeah thats the one. like that but not rooted.

Ha ha

Its a crap setup by nissan. It needs to be fixed

[sibainmud]

With my limited geometry knowledge, would that really change the caster or just stress the forward lower control arm bush?
The point is, the lower ball joint stays in a fixed arc and the caster is changed by moving the top ball joint forward, back or out and in for toe. (Edit; not toe camber )
Don't let me put you off though.
Show us what you end up doing

Cheers,

[wax]

Its how its done on a McPherson strut car off the bottom arm. I understand what you are saying about the bush but it will handle a little deflection. Im thinking about 4 degrees. You can move the top ball joint or the bottom the result is that same.
Please dont feel I will get upset if you disagree I havent done it yet just thinking about how to get around what I see as an issue. Its all in discussion at the moment until I buy the parts. The parts above I have already

[sibainmud]

After checking the manual it would work for a 2wd but the 4wd lower control arm has a fixed point on the front pivot and by tensioning the rear tension shaft would have limited effect unless you were to in theory move the hole in the chassis inward towards the gearbox or outward toward the sill of the body????

Cheers,
(likewise on the upset )
edited previous post

[wax]

Can you post the pic showing the fixed point. The way I see it is that the only thing holding the lower arm is the bush and the compression rod. I may of course be missing something. (im out of beer so I think I am seeing it clearly)

[sibainmud]

Have got a link to a exploded view.
If you were to tension the rod either forward or back, wouldn't it move or need to move the whole torsion bar as well?
Lower control arm forward bush is better not stressed and in it's neutral position?
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac167/sibainmud/Nissan_D21_Navara_1990_Pathfinder_SMOE-0D21G0.jpg

Food for thought

Cheers,

[wax]

Yup your right. Damn it. Im actually still new to the d21. Totally forgot about the torsion bar. Im going to have to look into that more.
Thanks for that.
I will look into how much movement is available in the torsion bay but I may be screwed before I start.

[sibainmud]

I have heard of welding washers into the hole on the chassis to fix the problem of flogging out the hole to an oval. New compression bushes come with a new tube that is over the tension shaft eliminating the wear factor

Cheers,

[wax]

I have used outer bearing races in mine and its fixed the issue. I just dont like the system.
I also hate the wheel alignment shim system.
And I cant help myself

[wax]

I did the Cherokee spring conversion on the terrano.
Worked well, went up about an inch on the back and leveled the truck out. Man it rides so much nice now, the rear springs had sagged alot.

I had to modify the springs a bit to get them in there but was worth it and I am super happy now.

Just the new bushes in the front a-arms and its all done. Ready for the body lift.

[kiwipete]

18x1.5
takes a little effort to cut the threads but hey its worth it. Got to love having a lathe at work. I didnt have a 16.5 mm drill so I had to use a boring tool.

Just a quick question, are the threads for the 2wd inner tie rods L/H or R/H thread?

I have a new centrelink here now, but it is for a L/H drive by the lookks of it as the steering dampener bracket is on the L/H side, but that's not a biggie as I simply need to swap the dampener pin over to the R/H side.
I am seriously considering doing your steering box mod at some stage too for the beefier idler arm.

[wax]

rh thread so its all good and easy to do.

Mine didnt have a steering damper bracket on it. I had to make my own one. if it becomes a problem just grind it off and do the same. The steering box was an awesome thing to do the car feels so solid now.

[kiwipete]

rh thread so its all good and easy to do.

Mine didnt have a steering damper bracket on it. I had to make my own one. if it becomes a problem just grind it off and do the same. The steering box was an awesome thing to do the car feels so solid now.

Cheers Wax, it will not be an issue for me to flip the steering dampener as it can be bolted to either chassis rail.

I need to go and read and re-read your write up on the steering box mod now as I think I have one sussed for a box of beer

[wax]

Well gearbox just started making big noises. On decel it crunches like crazy. Not sure how long its going to last I wasnt ready to do it just yet, I was going to wait another few weeks

[slide]

Oh no... Mine did that (deceleration crunch). Turned out it had stripped 2-and-a-half teeth off layshaft front gear. Makes me wonder why it made no noise accelerating or on cruise. Noise was only (and loud!) on deceleration.
And it happened driving to work at about 30-20kph .....
Lucky only damage was to layshaft gear, but input gear looked suspect so I replaced that also.
Good luck, but don't leave to long or you'll have a real good mess in there
(maybe you could be dodgy like me and drive for a couple weeks and just clutch in and use brake to slow down??)

[wax]

Ahh makes sense. I will drive it for a few weeks. Im putting in a bigger box which I already have. If it goes bang im not to worried other than the fact it will let me down.
Im going to do the clutch at the same time as I do not want to be pulling this thing in and out

[wax]

Im just concerned about getting the right clutch so I dont have any other issues. Im not sure if to get a stronger one or not

[slide]

I take it you'll be fitting lightened flywheel at same time as gearbox swap?
Did you get it redrilled to take GTR style clutch?

When I got my flywheel machined to suit my new clutch (a few years ago now) the specailists found that the flywheel had been machined wrong previously. I forget if it was stepped and supposted to be flat or other way around. But getting it wrong changed clamping force, and had made the previous plate start slipping prematurely. He mentioned that nissan brand vs aftermarket use the step opposites (hope that makes sence).
I have just a factory replacement clutch and its ok with standard power. Never had it slip, and its got a light pedal too. (everyone is surprised just how light it is).
Am thinking of also going for lightweight flywheel when I upgrade my gbox, so be interested to see how you find it.
Nathan