td27t stalling while driving

[roninjiro]

I have did a td27t conversion on a nissan xterra. It will drive fine for a about 15-20 minutes bit then stutter and stall on braking/deceleration, then struggle to start back up. I have a new fuel filter, and air filter. I have tried to find the banjo gauze but do not see it or the spring.

oh yea, right as it stalls it puffs smoke.... also just noticed the boost compensator fitting is broken on the intake pipe (will this cause stalling?)

[tweake]

sounds like fuel blockage. check you have the fuel hoses plumbed up the right way and check the fuel tank isn't under vacuum.

broken boost hose will mean it will be very gutless.

[sibainmud]

^^^agree^^^
It is definitely a fuel issue, but where is the question.
Correct me if I'm wrong, was the xterra a petrol before the conversion?
Sometimes there is a gauze filter inside some fuel tanks, was the electric fuel pump removed, how was the system plumbed? Is the tank breather unobstructed? How many K's have you done since it was changed to the TD27?
A simple test to check to see if it is fuel is, when it stalls or stops and won't re-start with just a flick of the key, pop the bonnet and prime the system with the hand pump on the top of the fuel filter assembly (10-15 pumps should be enough), try and start it then. Dose it start within a few turns of the engine or does it take a fair bit of cranking to start?
If it starts quick then it is most likely fuel supply to injection pump. If it takes a fair bit of cranking and when it starts it farts and splutters for a short moment then it may be air getting into the system. If this is the case, did it start doing it just after the fuel filter replacement? Sometimes it can be case of incorrect installation of a filter. Any observations/symptoms can help us keyboard mechanics narrow it down, or you may end up with a thread full unnecessary remedies.

To answer your question on the other TD27 fuel thread, the little gauze filter is just under the banjo bolt but it may of already been removed.

Cheers,

[roninjiro]

the xterra was petrol before and i removed the pump but put the gauze filter on the new pick up tube in the tank. system was plumbed as follows:

gauze>pickup tube>inline filter>tube from fuel tank to engine bay>diesel fuel filter>injector pump

tank breather is clear. 64KM since installed. no primer pump on the new fuel filter housing.

the gauze in the IP must have been removed already, i drained the hole and saw no spring or gauze in there.

Symtoms:
-Was gutless and thought that was normal (was disappointed, but did not know the boost compensator wasn't working)

I will be uploading a youtube video from a car following me

-Was city driving, it would not act up until after at least 5 minutes of driving. traffic light to traffic light, fastest I could go was around 100km/h and it was slow to get there.

-it would stutter and want to die mostly when slowing down and braking (a/c system was on at all times)

-there was the occasional stutter and stall when I would accelerate from a stop and drive for a minute, try go faster only to have no response from the engine, start coasting and stalling.

also I have put a fuel vacuum gauge on it when I drove it last. it was holding steady at 30cm/hg (stalled at that a few times) up to 40cm/hg (stalled some times there too)

It has stalled a total of maybe 10 times since install

[sibainmud]

Ok, get rid of the tank gauze, in-line filter in the rear (un-restricted flow to the engine bay). What fuel filter is in the engine bay if it has no primer pump? If it was me, I would replace the whole filter assembly to one of the OEM ones that have a primer (will come in real handy in the future). Use this primer to push the filtered fuel to the IP and go from there.
So this issue has been present since conversion?
What part of the world you in?

Something else i just thought of, the "out" banjo bolt was used in the right place? They have a much smaller hole on the shank and hold a certain amount of positive fuel pressure in the IP.

P.S, Welcome to ORE.

Cheers,

[roninjiro]

thank you for the help and welcoming!

ok, i will remove the gauze in the tank, and inline filter

I could not get the oem filter assembly shipped to me... seems no one would want to, so I run a aftermarket unit.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/525515_10151615210425564_1688734828_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/536151_10151815422570564_1640721704_n.jpg

[sibainmud]

Yip, get the feeling there is too many filters in the system. The lift pump side of the IP isn't that strong.
Where are you?
I have a filter assembly lying around you could have. Shipping may be an issue.
The only time i have seen those twin filter heads used are with large diesels that run a cam lift pump before the Injection pump.

Cheers,

[roninjiro]

usa/texas the filter closer to the radiator is the fuel filter. the other filter is remote oil.

still trying to upload these videos for you guys

[sibainmud]

Sweet.....shipping not an option.
Without a primer pump future bleeding must be a mission.
Go the wreckers yard and find any small jap diesel and get the filter off them.
Toyota, Nissan, GM, all run the same kind of system.
I know diesels are not that common there so you may have to do some hunting.

Cheers,

[tweake]

dual filters will create a lot of restriction. not recommended for VE pumps. for duals you need to run an electric high flow low pressure lift pump.
it has to be very low pressure as the pressure will effect injection timing.

the other problem can be fuel line size. some petrols run smaller hoses which will create more drag with the diesel pump is trying to suck fuel through.
need to remember that diesels pump a huge amount of fuel around.

in tank gauze should not be a problem. many manufactures use them in their diesels. they very rarely block up but they do leave the crap in the tank.

[roninjiro]

just took off the inline filter, so now there is only the engine bay filter. it still has the in tank gauze though, but it appears the inline filter was a large restriction. the fuel line size from tank to engine is the same as the inlet on the injection pump.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so5AOVR90is&feature=channel&list=UL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oO9PJ0O5vg&feature=channel&list=UL

another vid is still processing

[roninjiro]

sibainmud the "out" banjo bolt is not there, it has a solenoid timer instead

[roninjiro]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8us420fVWc&feature=channel&list=UL

[tweake]

sibainmud the "out" banjo bolt is not there, it has a solenoid timer instead

can you explain what that is. tho pics would be better.

[roninjiro]

https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/556909_10151821827000564_1950940572_n.jpg

green thing

the way the engine extras are... it seems set up for cold climates

[tweake]

cheers.
i managed to find a few other pics of it. looks like its a starting aid. i think mitsi uses a similar thing. block the return pipe to advance timing on startup.
as long as fuel is being returned to tank then it probably will not need to be connected.

[roninjiro]

So are you guys confident it is a fuel restriction after seeing the videos, and the symptoms? I am really hoping it is only that and not a bad IP

[sibainmud]

Yeah, set up for cold clim's.
Out banjo bolt comment not relevant
I'm sure it's a fuel restriction. As tweake says, a small electric lift pump maybe the solution. it would need some wiring up but then you could also put a spring return switch under the bonnet(hood) for manual prime to speed up the purging process when changing the filter

Cheers,

[slide]

I haven't watched your videos yet, but another suggestion would be to remove outlet (return) pipe from fuel pump, and fit in a section of clear pipe.
Start engine and watch for any sign of bubbles in the fuel (should be none).
If none; then good.
If bubbles; do same (clear line) to intake of pump, filter etc, and work 1st component to get air into system.
When figure where air gets into system, fix that component .
Maybe not your problem, but is easy to check.
Nath

[roninjiro]

after removing the inline filter (clogged perhaps) and bleeding the fuel system, it was a huge difference in fuel flow. Now I have to wait for my battery to charge overnight so no test drive was made today. I am confident that filter was the problem. I will update when I test-drive.

cheers!

[roninjiro]

just did a long test drive with perfect results. Has a lot of power than before, and never stalled. It was that in line filter (removed it) as the vacuum is is very low now with no restriction. Thank you everyone.

cheers!

[mercutio]

Woohoo great result. well done everyone for helping out someone half a world away, isn't the interweb just awesome

[sibainmud]

Awesome! That filter was meant for high pressure gas applications. Now wind the boost up and put a little more fuel down it's neck and then feel the horses
The power of the internet and smart phones. I have moved further than half a world away as I'm now in oz on the Gold Coast enjoying the warm climate

[roninjiro]

I will get a boost gauge, egt gauge and sensor and turn up the boost and fuel accordingly. how much more power should be expected?

[kiwinoz]

Hey Sibainmud, did you bring your Terrano?

[sibainmud]

Nah, used Wax's carbon copy of my truck
Only on holiday
Cheers,

[Crash bandicoot]

thank you for the help and welcoming!

ok, i will remove the gauze in the tank, and inline filter

I could not get the oem filter assembly shipped to me... seems no one would want to, so I run a aftermarket unit.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/525515_10151615210425564_1688734828_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/536151_10151815422570564_1640721704_n.jpg

where is your nearest wrecker....you can also use the OEM filter housing with primer from a toyota hilux or what was sold in the states as a toyota 4 runner from the early 1990's as well. also that is a lot of fuel filter for a 2.7 litre engine.

[Crash bandicoot]

I will get a boost gauge, egt gauge and sensor and turn up the boost and fuel accordingly. how much more power should be expected?

alot more, also if you are going to crank up the air fuel i strongly suggest a inter cooler

[roninjiro]

I will get a boost gauge, egt gauge and sensor and turn up the boost and fuel accordingly. how much more power should be expected?

alot more, also if you are going to crank up the air fuel i strongly suggest a inter cooler

That is good to hear.. just having a problem with the turbocharger right now... it will not reach waste gate pressure. The most boost I would see is around 9psi and the waste gate never does open. I will have to take the turbo off of my spare td27t when I get some time, while I get the other rebuilt if possible.

[wax]

Have you removed the over boost valve on the intake ??