V8 Land Rover project

[oldyella]

Yea the LED was flowing 15mA. A 1Watt bulb would flow 83mA.

I was also using the LED as the Diode so you don't charge the battery through the light. Apparently LED's are crap diodes so I think it may be possible that this is what has caused the alternator electrics to fail.

Are there any other common problems with these alternators?

Serpentine belt type

Cheers,

Pete

[oldyella]

Alternator Fixed Up from Harrex downing & little in Dunedin

Caused myself some problems when I made some setting changes to the MSII when the battery voltage was low. Corrupted the entire code so then the MSII decided to pump so much fuel into the motor it hydrolocked the motor

So, drain petrol, change oil, re-loaded code and tune and back in buisness

Also getting Peter Watson around to give it the once over since Graeme Fitzpatrick has retired.

Finally got the camera and internet sorted so I can post videos so I'll get something more interesting than a rev.

Still needs heaps more tuning but starting to sound good.

Turn this up

[oldyella]

I had Peter Watson around on Saturday and he sounds keen to cert the Landy. Still bits and pieces need finished up including front bull bar, collapsable steering column, seat belts, gearbox tunnel and some tidying of wires.

I'v ordered seat belts from Seat Belt Sales in Christchurch, $312 for a complete set.

Now I want to make a start on the steering column. I need to make a support for one of the steering shafts and Peter Watson suggested a 3/4" hemispherical suspension joint as my steering shaft is 3/4". Who supplies these for a good price? Im based in Dunedin but postage would be stuff all from anywhere in NZ I would think.

Cheers,

Pete

[philux]

looking pretty sweet pete, looks like its almost ready to do some firewood missions to naseby

[oldyella]

It would be cheaper to burn petrol for heat

I feel like im making progress lately. Will be good to get the steering sorted as its one of the last trickier bits..

Found some joints on Trademe listed under "Rod Ends" which look like they should do the trick for the 3/4" steering shaft support/bearing. Then just need to whip up a angle bracket to bolt the joint to...

[niblik]

Woohoo!! Go get em! Gaining momentum to the ever nearing end guy! Too cool. Sound is mint. Would love my landy to be legal. Heh heh.

[oldyella]

Nibz, somehow I reacon you could get that LR of yours certed before me

Still buggering around on other bits and peices but heres something finished. Cheap fire insurance

[oldyella]

Need to purchase a winch so I can get the front bar built around it.

Probably won't get used that much compared to some but want it to work when I need it.

This looks alright to me and is about my budget.

http://www.winch.co.nz/categories/runva-4wd-winches/ewx9500-q-12v-dyneema

Or would it be worth going to the 12000lb model? Im a bit confused why its the same price as the 9500lb model...

http://www.winch.co.nz/categories/runva-4wd-winches/ewx12000-12v-dyneema

Looks like they come with everything needed to get them set up...

Landrovers probably going to weigh a bit over 1.5T all up I reacon. Are there some other brands which I should be looking at? Not interested in spending $1500 but could handle $850.

Advice appreciated as this will be the first winch I'v purchased

Cheers,

Pete

[Rotazuk]

Have a 9500 one sitting in the storage shed awaiting its new home when I get the toy finished .

As to the price I would say its all in the spec's . Firstly the 9500 has a 8.6HP motor and the 12000 a 5.4HP one . So in effect the smaller winch has more grunt , let me finish ... The rest is in the gearing . The 12000 has a 233.1 ratio and this is how it gets the extra grunt , were as the 9500 is only 110.1 . So while the 12000 has a smaller motor the extra gearing gives it more grunt abet at a much slower speed . If you needed a heavy duty winch then maybe ask if the gears are bigger in the 12000 . I only needed a medium sized truck winch so went with the 9500 one ( which will be well up to the job ) and I will appreciate the extra speed from the gearing and bigger motor .

Have a look at the line speed and layer of cable pull charts too . On the 4th layer the 12000 is pulling 6800lbs and the 9500 is 5590 lbs . Not much in it really , don't use a winch at the moment so do know but where on teh drum is the bulk of your use . Ie with the cable all the way out of only the last 1/4 of the cable ?

Chris

[oldyella]

Thanks for that.

As for what I will be using it for I'm guessing majority of driving will be around central otago hills. Will probably need to get a ground anchor as well.

Im thinking the 9500 should be ideal for my use.

Cheers,

Pete

[NJV6]

Yes, a mate had one on his Surf, (the V8 SAS one for sale on here) and the 9500 pulled it fine.

[oldyella]

Mint. I'll get the 9500

Have booked the Landy in at Tom's Offroad in september since im sure the end result will look much better than what I can manage.

Will have the seatbelts finished this week. Will throw up some pics of the finished job.

Need to get a boss kit for a disco steering shaft to get rid of the stupid plastic disco steering wheel. Couldn't find one on TM so will try ripco

Also need to start getting paper work togeather for cert. Wheel allignment printout, proof of ownership, proof of registration in nz etc

Still lots to do

[oldyella]

Working on getting the steering legit for cert. I have done what Peter Watson suggested and got my self a 1" rod end to support the steering shaft.


Looks like the rod end will need a small amount of encoragement from the press to get in on the shaft.


This means I will have two shorter shafts down to the steering box and three universals in total. The upper end is is just fabbed up from the disco steering column, and the series 2 steering column bracket. There are two ball bearings which fit inside that housing.


The origional discovery steering shaft has a collapsable section. The lower solid section is 3/4" shaft with a splines machined on both ends. This is what I have been using to get it around but its not legal. Now I just need to shorten it and put a new spline on one end.

The universals the factory part at the discovery steering box to steering shaft. I will just be using two of these.


Now I need to put it back into the landy and make a mounting bracket for the rod end and buy two 1 1/4" unf nuts to hold it in place.

[oldyella]

Well im having trouble with getting a boss kit to suit the discovery steering shaft spline. Its a 1996.

Has anyone managed to source one before?

The nut is an M12

Its a 29 spline

The spline is 15mm OD

[Sadam_Husain]

can you not throw a disco steering wheel on there or have you got something else in mind?

[mazdamike]

im on the hunt for a 77 range rover also who would have thought it would be this hard even in the uk. i may have a lead out of the us waiting to hear back from the guy. If u are keen

[Mudhog]

I got a boss and a steering wheel for Mudhog(1974 Classic Rangie) from Land Rover Parts Ltd in Auckland.

www.landroverparts.co.nz

Hope this helps

Cheers
Brett

[oldyella]

can you not throw a disco steering wheel on there or have you got something else in mind?

The excessivly plastic steering wheel in the series landy looks wrong haha.

[oldyella]

I got a boss and a steering wheel for Mudhog(1974 Classic Rangie) from Land Rover Parts Ltd in Auckland.

http://www.landroverparts.co.nz

Hope this helps

Cheers
Brett

Cheers Brett will try them

[oldyella]

im on the hunt for a 77 range rover also who would have thought it would be this hard even in the uk. i may have a lead out of the us waiting to hear back from the guy. If u are keen

Will see if I can source from NZ first then get back to you.

Cheers,

Pete

[oldyella]

I realised I haden't tried Rex at Land Rover Spares and he can source with only a small wait

[oldyella]

Im looking for a set of series one bonnet latches to hold down the bonnet instead of going with aftermarket latches

Does anyone have a spare set they can part with or know of someone I can contact.

Cheers,

Pete

[oldyella]

Well the tool shed welder has broken down after welding a snorkel and an air box.

Won't lay down anything except bird shit no matter what settings.

Its inside the warrenty period so will see what the tool shed will do to sort it

Cheers,

Pete

[oldyella]

Got the Runva 9500lbs winch on order with the dynamee rope. Should do the trick. Ment to turn up in a couple of weeks so hopefully it arrives in time for Tom's Offroad to incorporate it into the front bar.



Anyone got any great ideas for bar work on a series landy. Shouldnt be hard to improve on what I had on my first S2a

The grader blade


Stuck on front bar


Stuck on front bar


I think there was atleast 4 other times it got hungup

Had a bit of a look on the net and found these. Its a bit weird because they are all on 90's so its hard to know if they will suit the series front end.







Also thinking about putting some pipework over the front guards a bit like what petefj40 had done around the rear wheel arches of the fj40.

[niblik]

Noooooooooooo...........!!!!

Best part about the landys is the fact they are flat sided. This enables them to slide past obstructions etc. In sayin that, you've got your rear tray so I guess it could be like a slider to ramp the deck out of harm etc whilst keepin tyres legally covered.

The 90 front bars do look smart. Do eeeeet.

I had thought of toyin with bar work bein under the front panels and sides on inside of guards for strength but meh.

[lilpigzuk]

I had thought of toyin with bar work bein under the front panels and sides on inside of guards for strength but meh.

Yeah, theres a few people doing these kits in UK, retains the series look while adding a heap of strength







Saves on having to do a "full" bullbar. Im sure it wouldnt be hard to replicate if you are good with a bender. Colour code it and it would blend nicely

[klompy]

Let Tom work it out I sure he will come up with something cool.

[oldyella]

Noooooooooooo...........!!!!

Best part about the landys is the fact they are flat sided. This enables them to slide past obstructions etc. In sayin that, you've got your rear tray so I guess it could be like a slider to ramp the deck out of harm etc whilst keepin tyres legally covered.

The 90 front bars do look smart. Do eeeeet.

I had thought of toyin with bar work bein under the front panels and sides on inside of guards for strength but meh.

Yea, if you remember what the guards used to look like



Its pretty easy to realise there is a fair bit of bog

Was thinking the steel pipe following the front arches would stop the bog from popping out

The wheel could still sit outside the pipe so it doesn't get terribly hung up. Screw a bit of rubber screwed onto the bottom of the pipe or something.

Just regarding the deck sticking out, I'v finished up the sliders on both sides. At the moment there fully enclosed. Should I take to them with the 50mm hole saw?

Just need to flick some etch primer over them so Tom can still weld to them or what ever.

I'v tride to make them so if im rubbing up against something it wont get hungup.

Should work ok driving forward. Not so much going backward...

[oldyella]

Yeah, theres a few people doing these kits in UK, retains the series look while adding a heap of strength

Thanks for the ideas Rex. Good to see something a bit different.

Yea im sure Tom will sort it. Sounds like its going down the ARBish style at the mo.

[oldyella]

Took to Landy for its first proper test drive at the old mans forestry site.

When I was towing it there the breaks tighened up then locked on. Had to crack the bleeding screws on the calipers to get it rolling again.

I think the problem is I have an ABS brake master cylinder and need the non-ABS brake master cylinder...

Got to see boiling brake fluid for the first time

Anyway, eventually got it to the site

Threw the truck on the weigh bridge



And the majic number. Only about 80kg heavier than a stock S2a so pretty stoked



Some very average flex in the rear





Found some mud



Front seems to flex OK





Not quite running 100%. Havn't managed 2 figure it out why yet. Might do a compression test just to rule that out.



Didn't smash the remote oil housing off so thats good



Bracket for the fuel tank seems to catch alot of mud..





Realised when I got home I never locked the centre diff. Thought it should have a bit more traction

All up was a pretty sucessful first run