TD27t gauge and boost confusion

[Tribune]

OK, got me an Autometer Sport-Comp mechanical boost gauge. Good robust high quality unit. Plumbed it in following all instructions, everything sealing well. I located the T-fitting for the gauge in the hose between the Turbo housing and the waste gate actuator as I thought this would give the most accurate reading.

But . . . at max boost with peddle to the metal, gauge only reads 8 psi - thought max stock boost was 10 psi.

So, then added a Hallman manual boost controller between the gauge T-fitting and the waste gate actuator following all instructions to the letter there too. Turned up the boost and drove the accelerator peddle into the floor . . .
emergency relief valve starts blowing off at what the gauge reports as a fraction over 9 psi. Thought that thing vented at 14 psi. WTF!?

Have I got the gauge coming off the wrong vacuum/boost source? Should I run it from the hose that comes off the big turbo-intake manifold pipe above the crank case cover (hose goes to the fuel injector pump I think)? Have I screwed up somewhere or is my $70 gauge effed up?

[tweake]

the gauge connection is not in a good place. best place is off manifold. if its got a line going to injection pump then T into that.

have you adjusted the boost controller?

[hamboy]

Sounds like its being restricted some where. I run my gauge off the actuator line and it reads spot on. have you replaced the factory actuator line?

[Tribune]

Yeah, that was my suspicion that the actuator line (from turbo housing to waste gate actuator) was the issue. And yes, I've replaced the factory actuator line. It was had become pretty brittle and the boost contoller has to go on there anyways. Boost controller is now set to zero - stock boost.

I'll have a play with trial and error this evening. Got a vac/boost gauge I can swap in to see if its a gauge issue. Will also relocate the line to come off the manifold to fuel injection pump hose. If still messed up, that just leaves a leak or restriction in the line. May replace the plastic t-fitting with a brass one though just to be secure.

[Tribune]

Well, relocated the line to a tee fitting off the manifold to fuel injector pump line. Gauge reading better now. Max stock boost 10 PSI, but safety valve appears to be blowing off at 12 PSI not 14. Wish it was adjustable! Oh well... gonna get rid of that anyway, just want to know my gauge is reliable first.

Now started on the EGR delete. Just wish I knew how to disconnect the exhaust manifold end of the EGR pipe without having to remove the turbo. I can feel the studs underneath, even see them way way up there from the underside of the vehicle. Damned if there's room to get a spanner or ratchet and socket on them though! Any suggestions?

[icekayak]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEPJxLE5GYY




This guy goes up with like 5 socket extensions from under the wheel well... at 2.15 if you don't want to watch the whole thing.

[Tribune]

Thanks mate, great vid.

Will have a go at that tomorrow. Hopefully through the wheel arch will work for the exhaust side as well. Can but try

[Dirtydog]

quite easy to get to once you install a bodylift lol,

[Tribune]

Yup, that's on the to-do list as well, lol.

[DEATH_INC]

but safety valve appears to be blowing off at 12 PSI not 14. Wish it was adjustable!

It is ....sorta. Just hit the top of it with a hammer, it squashes the spring down more. Don't be shy I ran mine like that for ages....

[Crash bandicoot]

You don't have to remove the complete EGR system.
Just undo the two bolts on the intake manifold and put a piece of 1ml panel steel in between the flanges with some gasket goo and do it back up.
Then remove the vacuum lines. Much easier and still looks factory.

I have done this as i'm considering making a top mount turbo manifold for mine so i can change the oil filter without having to take the belly plate or front wheel off.

when i get around to that, then ill remove the entire EGR system

[Tribune]

Thought about putting a blocking plate in, but kinda wanted the empty exhaust manifold EGR port to mount an EGT gauge. Besides, I have a stubborn habit of going the whole hog or not at all despite being still something of a novice mechanic!

Anyway, just working on it after work in the autumn sunshine and mosquitoes. Got the emergency valve off to replace with a blanking plug. Turbo dump pipe off this evening. Will let turbo to exhaust manifold studs sit over night with penetrant and get that off tomorrow before I can finally access the exhaust end of the EGT pipe.

I guess with the dump pipe off, I may look at getting a 2.5" one fabricated rather than having to pull everything apart again to use it as a template!

[Tribune]

Turbo out, and one of the exhaust end EGT nuts, but the other is rounding off! Hard place to get in there and cut it off too!

[slide]

but the other is rounding off! Hard place to get in there and cut it off too!

Use best quality tool, 6point if possible.
Or maybe get some heat onto it to help loosen it??

[Tribune]

Well, its out. Had to grind off the stuck nut with the dremmel tool between the frame and the wheel arch. Took a while but the whole EGR system is out. Having a couple of blanking plates drilled and tapped for EGT probe and a vacuum line out made up at the moment.

Thanks for all the advice here. This is a great forum, especially for those of us here in N. America working on vehicles that are rare here and far more common in NZ! Many thanks!