D21 Lift kit bits and transmission

[Campott]

Hi guys, I posted a while ago regarding a lift kit. I'm trying to track down bits and pieces, though haven't figured out how to message individual people on here yet
So..
'fullthrottle' suggested an idler arm brace from 'DEATH_INC' - anyone have contact details for this chap?
And what's the go with the dummy steering box? Does this have the same effect as fitting a damper? Do I still need an idler brace if I need the dummy 2wd box?

Cheers guys

[zukmeista]

'fullthrottle' suggested an idler arm brace from 'DEATH_INC' - anyone have contact details for this chap?

Just send him a PM(private message) on here.

[Campott]

And the transmission part...
Auto trans, d21 1992 td27.
Plenty fluid, looks ok in color.

Trans is getting warm on a regular basis. revs out to about 3000 between 1/2 and seems to really slam into 2nd.
Doesnt like to hold 4th for longer than 5 seconds no matter what the revs (goes straight from 3rd to 5th).

Auto change switch was replaced by a mechanic a while back as he smashed it replacing top fuel pump seals.. Could this be an issue?

Is my trans just buggered? Is it fairly easy to put a new one in? Worth the hassle to go to manual if I'm changing anyway? And what are recond. ones like from a wrecker-risky?
Cheers

[Campott]

Cheers zukmeista

[zukmeista]

As far as changing to a manual, it's not worth the effort I would think as the manual gearboxes have strength issues.

[The Stranger]

Trans is getting warm on a regular basis.

Is my trans just buggered? Is it fairly easy to put a new one in? Worth the hassle to go to manual if I'm changing anyway? And what are recond. ones like from a wrecker-risky?
Cheers

They need a big cooler, with a large trans cooler I was still hitting 125c. I now use a big engine oil cooler and haven't seen over 80c yet.

It's not easy to fit a new trans. I was quoted 1200 just to change the trans. Having done one I recon 1200 is cheap - I'd pay that next time.

As I understand the manuals are not much better.

[Paulballz]

And the transmission part...
Auto trans, d21 1992 td27.
Plenty fluid, looks ok in color.

Trans is getting warm on a regular basis. revs out to about 3000 between 1/2 and seems to really slam into 2nd.
Doesnt like to hold 4th for longer than 5 seconds no matter what the revs (goes straight from 3rd to 5th).

Auto change switch was replaced by a mechanic a while back as he smashed it replacing top fuel pump seals.. Could this be an issue?

Is my trans just buggered? Is it fairly easy to put a new one in? Worth the hassle to go to manual if I'm changing anyway? And what are recond. ones like from a wrecker-risky?
Cheers

There should not be a 5th unless it has different than usual trans (could be wrong), they are re4r01a trans which is a 4 speed, 1/2/3(o/d off) then 4th...If "HOLD" button is activated they will take off in 2nd then shift straight to 4th, is this what is happening?...

If the part he smashed is the potentiometer (throttle position sensor) on diesel pump then yes that will be causing problems and explain why it wont chop down and hold gears when under heavy throttle, i am going through similar problems with mine at moment. He may have replaced it with new item but they need to re calibrated after removal and installation.. PM me if you want manual showing ho to do this.

The potentiometer sends a signal to transmission control showing how much throttle is applied..More throttle the longer it will rev gears, less throttle early shifts.

Mine since day one before and after rebuild hits hard into 2nd under heavy acceleration they can apparently adjust line pressure to help this, it has not caused any damage to mine though. Also as suggested get a large trans oil cooler and install right up front with good air flow.

And to same you last questions. I def would not go changing trans, silly little problem like the potentiometer is enough to convince people the trans is buggered and it is only a small little issue, easily fixed. Changing the trans is a prick of a job, it is very straight forward though, count up to a full day of heavy work unless you have correct equipment. Torsion bars ect will all need to be removed and reset after also, then wheel alignment set again.

[fullthrottle]

'fullthrottle' suggested an idler arm brace from 'DEATH_INC' - anyone have contact details for this chap?
And what's the go with the dummy steering box? Does this have the same effect as fitting a damper? Do I still need an idler brace if I need the dummy 2wd box?

Cheers guys

Hey Campott
To answer the brace question....
If your lifting the front of these trucks, then you can do either the idler arm brace, or dummy steering box. However even after installing the brace I still bent the idler arm. With or without the 2WD steering (center-link and tie-rod) setup something has to give.
I am sure with enough pusnishment you will still bend something, so the best thing to do is make sure the weakest link is something cheap and easy to replace in the field.

The ideal setup would be to use the dummy steering box in replacement of the idler arm. The arm and shaft on those things are sooo much stronger.
2WD center-link and tie-rod conversion.
So then when extreme upward force is once again applied, the only thing that should bend is the tie-rod end. Easy to replace in the field and so I've found out, easy to bend back for a quick temp fix.

[fullthrottle]

On the trans side, I agree with Mr Paulballz.

They are known for overheating. Running them cool will save them.

What you could do, if not already done, is give it a good service. I like to know what state the equipment I have is in. Thats why I hate buying other cars until the 6month honeymoon period is over and the bugs are worked out.

I'm about to do this to mine:
Drain the trans
Remove sump and just check around for any crap to indicate damage.
Have a look through the filter as well.
Replace the filter and on the line that goes to the cooler install an in-line trans filter.
Refill with some good oil.

This will of course not refresh the oil in the torque converter. You need a special machine to do this, and it costs around $300 to have done.
If the oil looks fairly clean before you begin, then you shouldn't have to do this as the new filters will clean the remaining crap in the converter up.

[slide]

(goes straight from 3rd to 5th).

Auto change switch was replaced by a mechanic a while back as he smashed it replacing top fuel pump seals.. Could this be an issue?

Yep, as the others said, most likely the tps adjusted wrong causing all your bad-shift issues. It is only a 4 speed, the '5th gear' you feel will be the torque converter locking up.

[slide]

And what's the go with the dummy steering box? Does this have the same effect as fitting a damper? Do I still need an idler brace if I need the dummy 2wd box?

No, steering damper is different idea.
Dummy steering box replaces idler arm, so no need for idler brace.
By 'Dummy 2wd box' it sounds like your mixing the two ideas, 2wd steering tierods, and dummy steering box idler.
Lots of talk about the two ideas, do a forum search and you'll see lots including pictures.