1kz surf using water

[dvkmunta1kzsurf]

hey just joined up to this site. looking for any help to slove a problem with my 94 1kzte surf. It has started using a bit of water yet it has never been overheated. Ive read these motors are knowen for cracking heads but like i say its never been hot in the time ive owned her. trying to rule out the problem eg is the head stuffed or the head gasket or is the water coming out somewere else. ive looked but cant seam to see anything. Also it has a miss sometimes when starting [hot or cold] could this be one of the cylinders fulling with water due to headgasket or bugged head??????????? cheers any help would be great thanks guys

[Jerry]

sounds like the head, whats the oil like? would pay getting it tested. if it needs doing go with the genuine head they are only $825 trade

[northland_pajero]

My Mitsi Pajero 2.8 turbo diesel started using water once, it had also never been overheated and are also known for doing heads. Turned out to be the radiator cap not holding pressure causing the expansion bottle to overflow.

[evolution02]

You need to pressure test the cooling system as it could just have a small leak somewhere.
I know mine has had a few small leaks over the years

[dvkmunta1kzsurf]

checkd the oil and its fine no site of it turning a milky colour. ive replace the radiator cap last week and still no change. will try a leak down test and go from there. Also $800 for a new head isnt a bad price mite just have to bite the bullet and get a new head. cheers guys

[Heath]

Start with the basics and get the rad cap checked (or just replace it - they're cheap enough).

Then if still an issue get the cooling system pressure checked.

Try removing the rad cap when its running and watch for a stream of bubbles.

Could get a gas test done on the cooling system too, but only indictative of gas getting into the coolant.

Are any of the footwells getting wet? The heater cores can develope a leak and drains into the footwell. This usually coincides with a steam/fog washing over the windscrean when the blower is first switched on (if the water is hot).

How quickly does it use water?

If a slow leak it could be a weep from a connection or a water pump leak - look for weep marks (coolant coloured stain) on connections and on the pump.

Could just be a blown head gasket but if you are going to all the trouble of taking the head off it might be a good insurance policy to change the head anyway. Then get the old one tested - if its a good one then sell it if it fails then you just saved yourself a headache down the line (and some $$$).

What ever it is start at the beginning with the simple stuff and work slowly to the worst possibility.

[mudbugga]

Remove the glow plugs, pressure test the cooling system, leave under pressure for 10mins or so, then with glow plugs out and injector pump unplugged crank engine over. If the head is cracked coolant will come out of the glow plug holes.
The KZ heads crack above the valves in the intake port. A compression test or leak down test doesn't always show it up.

Also check the water pump when the cooling system is under pressure.

[dvkmunta1kzsurf]

cool cheers guys i try all that b4 i go down the road of buying a new head. thanks heaps for all ya help cheers great web site

[SMOKEY]

Don't kid yourself on the $850 ????? for a new head, that is the casting only even doing the job yourself by the time your finished you will be close to 2K, If you do need a new head go for a genuine Toyota Exchange head a top gasket set, belts idler etc; , new set of bolts, oil, coolant and you will be good to go ------- well not yet almost forgot, while the exhaust manifold is off drill and tap it ready for an ETG, you will have to do a search on here because I'm not typing it all out again. Fit a gauge another $300 and do a search and drive by the gauge. While your in the search mode check out Toyota Water (coolant) Temp; Gauges,

THEY DON'T SHOW HOT.

FITZY.

[Heath]

While your in the search mode check out Toyota Water (coolant) Temp; Gauges,

THEY DON'T SHOW HOT.

FITZY.

Yes they do.

Its usually just after the head is warped and damn near melted. Hot means something else to the toyota guys I guess. At std trunning temp the water temp has to rise over 20degc to register and by then its too late...

[imsohi]

even doing the job yourself by the time your finished you will be close to 2K
FITZY.

Totally agree also while in ther water pump timing belt idler and tensioner are all good things to do aswel as crank and cam seals did it all myself and spent $2300 was mostly genuine toyota at trade but shopped around with head bolts and gasket set.

all the best

[geckoadventure]

Just going through this thread I sob sob been through all this recently (and still fixing).

Observations:
1. Low on power uphill
2. Cleaned and fixed injectors
3. New radiator 4 core installed 2 months ago and everything done including new coolant and hoses.
4. Drive this like a baby
5. Smoked on startup and ran rough if left for more than 4 hours smoked for months
6. Suddenly last week it started using coolant after never using any for 3+ years and the temp gauge started randomly rising and falling.
7. Checked the Waterpump and fine and thermostat also fine
8. Last resort was to pull the head as everyhting else had been done including pressure check

Here is the pic of the removed head they rung me to go look.



8 cracks in the head 2 in each cylinder all in the same placed circled for your benefit and education.

Told no second hand ones and they could not get one new engine required.

Purchased a new head yesterday (Toyota factory kit) for $3680rm ($1450NZD) I could have got one from OZ for $850 + freight - I knew where to look from some contacts

Now installing intercooler and EGT and new water temp gauge and a BOOST gauge.

Truck will be back in 3-4 days once the engineering shop reshims the valve clearances as the workshop cannot.

This may help anyone else with a 1KZ - my my I love the 13B-T in my other LJ77 its a much tougher engine.

Stupid head took the money I had been saving up for the twin lockers for the truck instead sob sob.

The new shiney head.

[dvkmunta1kzsurf]

just a tip for anyone who is looking for a quick fix to get you going. i brought this stuff in a orange can called block sealer (it an american product). worked a treat fixed the cracked head in my 1kz. Ive done 20 odd thousand ks with it in a not problem before getting a new head. its a bit of a process it to put in it.
1st flush all coolant from the system
2nd mix block sealer and fill system, run at idle with no thermostat in motor for a hour
3rd drain system and leave to dry for 24 hours make sure the motor is free from water in motor
4th full with water only. get rid of any air locks in system and you are good to go. note DO NOT RUN ANY COOLANT WITH PRODUCT
Its a cheap fix and not really the correct way to fix the problem but it is cheaper than a need head and will give you time to save for that new head.
# the only con i found was it also block my radiator so had to get that flushed