Will H25A extractors bolt up to the older H20A???

[Chairmen]

I looked all over the net in hope too find some information on this topic with no luck,
I have a H20A an can only find extractor for the H25A.
Dose any one know if it will bolt up? i thought are that there isn't much difference between these two engines.
Any help would be greatly appreciated Cheers.
Clay

[zukmeista]

From what I have read on auszookers, yes they will fit but as they are made for a GV there may be chassis clearance issues.

[churchill]

I think they will, people do a h20a to h25a conversion using the parts off the h20a. Some how the exhaust manifolds must swap over. I have a h25a in mine if you want to come over and compare.

Are these the wildcat extractors you're looking at?

[Chairmen]

Ok i mite take you up on that? Ill let you know.

Yes that's them, Wildcat extractors are all i seem to be able to find for the H series engines.

They are a bit pricey so i think i'll go get a quote from pit stop for extractor's to be fab up for me engine and compare the two.

It would be nice if there was more option's for bolt on upgrades for the sixis as there are for the 4 banger's.....

[churchill]

I know what you mean about a lack if upgrades. I got a price of nz$750 for a pair and they still might need to be modified to fit! PM me when you're keen to come over for a look

[Chairmen]

Dame pit stop quoted around $1000 for extractor's, an that's over the fone with out seeing the truck.

I'd say it would work out a wee bit cheaper buying the wildcat set an alter with a heat touch where need's bending, but still that's to much coin for what little gain's they'l give.

I'm considering making my own extractor's using the standard manifold to build off, ill have to get under the truck an see how much clearance there is an plot a plan

[churchill]

For that sort of money you might as well chuck a H25A in it.

[Chairmen]

Yeah good point,
i wonder how much difference the grunt/HP would be over the 2L? Considering id still be using the H20A ECU.

I'm looking into supercharging, in the process of tracking down a toyota Charger ATM.
I think this would be my best option for now till i brake something then can build it bigger an stronger next time round

[churchill]

Yeah I don't know what the actual figures are but I met 1 guy who did the change and he rated it highly. I think it gives better torque down low as opposed to outright power. H25A is 150-165hp standard but produces max torque lower in the rev range.

SC14's were on trademe for around $300 a while ago.

[Chairmen]

Ok sound like a decent upgrade from H20A to 2.5

As i'm finding mine to be a little lacking in the low down torque department when climbing a few sand on clay hilly area an esspically when the rev's drop in first (Automatic) she struggle's to pick back up even too the point where it just stop's.

It probably don't help that she's an auto an got longer gear's to supplie the power through?

Other then that she still gose really well ya know, make it through most part's

Just tho's very few ocation's where ya find yourself climbing a hill at momentum right on powerband, then slowing a little to get a tyre over a rut/root or what ever then powering back on uphill an she not producing.

Charger should help this for now.
An i miss that auction, there was an auction that ended not long ago but it was a SC 12 with all piping even manifold's to bolt up to 4agze for 4 hundy, year im keeping an eye open for a SC 14 charge.

Oh an i took a look at standard extractor's an don't think ill be attempting to make my own, Ill only make a mess of it an me TIG skill's are very novice atm, i think it just sounded good in my head lol.
Going to go straight pipe back with muffler from in front of Cat for now will be alot more feesable an should help out a bit.

[churchill]

Yeah the 2.5l still stalls in first gear, I think the problem is the low ratio is only 1.8:1 and it should be closer to 3.0:1 to get more torque to the wheels. It wouldn't surprise me if they did that to reduce the torque on the weak axles and front diffs and make them last longer.

If you do make up an exhaust cut that Y joint out and replace it with aftermarket one, it's really restrictive.

I might be interested in selling you my 2.5" manifold back system with a high flow Y.

Does your's lock out overdrive in low ratio? Mines only a 3 speed when in low ratio.

[Chairmen]

Yeah i think your right about the low raito as the front diff housing would just shatter if there was anymore torque sent to it. Every now an then my front diff make's a funny click sound that put's the wobblie's up me...

The Y joints you say cheers for that ill keep in mind when get the straight pipe made up.

Man we currently putting a locker in the rear or i should say trying too, we can't get the dayem half shaft's axle to slide out of the diff to pull diff head out.
Have you ever pulled your axle's out before mate?
If so got a trick to it?
We have tried a slide hammer, stropping it to the deck, an broot frustration style's with sleggy, an she won't boudge.

An i was hopping to go woodhill again this weekend, only with a locker in her this time, ant looking possible ATM

I got faith that we will crack it

Year i think my block out overdrive too when in 4x4 low. I'm mainly in first an second through the track, an i love first for just costing down bumppy hill's.

Do you have bigger wheel's on your truck?

[zukmeista]

Put the wheel on and whack the back of it with a sledgy, make sure you aren't underneath it when you're doing it and tie it to something so it can't move.

[lincooln]

or put wheels on and use a highlift? better than hitting a wheel and bending it. But I have never done it for myself so who am I to know the best way

[Chairmen]

Cheers we got it in the end, check out my cuzzin's idea that worked a chame!

Oh take it back i cant seem to upload pic's bugger it's hard case.

Anyway hit another bloody problem, the main long pin in the diff carrier would not come out so we took it up to the local mechanic shop to get pressed and he tryed an rekon's i need a hole new diff head as the pin is stuck in there, hard to believe for me i'm thinking some how get the pin out then get another one made up at engineer's?
If i can source a diff head with the ratio of 4.875 ill be keen to buy asap to get the truck up an going.
Gutted every thing else in the diff is in perfect working order it hard to think i need a hole new diff.

Here's a scenario,
Some one mite know answer for,
If i do track down a suzuki vitara diff head with different ratio can i just use the carrier out of it to put in my diff?

[kernels]

I have a diff head from a 2L V6 in the workshop that I can be tempted to part with for the right price.

[Chairmen]

Hi kernels

Thanks for the offer man, but i have all ready been offered one and agreed too the purchase of it from another member from ORE.
The diff has the 4.875 ratio i'm after so bonus.

Im still keen too buy your manual locking hubs, For the right price

Cheers,
Clay