Nissan Safari Radio Question

[FORGE1]

I know this has been covered off many times and I have had a look through the site and google but cant find the answer to my question.

The factory reducer does the step down (24-12v) but isnt enough to make my headunit work properly.

I want to know if I put a reducer in is it for the Red (ACC) or Yellow (Memory) wire or both???

My brothers Safari has it for both.

Now if you swap the 2 over it works sweet but doesnt hold the memory so my thoughts would be you only need it for the ACC Wire to make it work sweet? I think I have holiday brain so I cant quite think this one through properly.

If im way out and need it for both I will buy the reducer that does both but if not I will only get a single line reducer.

Cheers
Ray

[Keef]

If it is a standard car stereo all those signals would expect 12v I would imagine 24v would upset things, chuck a multimeter on the wires and see what voltage you are getting. Make sure it matches the specs of the stereo.
Hope that helps.

[Filthy4x4]

I just wired a head unit into mine with a multimeter, everything was getting 12-13v, the head deck turns on then when its under load ie loading a cd or usb it starts turning off and on by itself.

Same problem your getting?

[datsunsafari]

you need a 24v to 12v reducer,mine has red(thick)24v input,red(thin)24v input permanent,yellow(thick)12v output,yellow(thin)12v for radio memory,black earth.sorry dont know what make it is.hope this helps.cheers craig

[FORGE1]

Sweet cheers for the replies.

Yeah mine is doing what Filthy4x4's is doing but I cant even turn it on.

My main point is if I can switch the red and yellow over to make it run but not hold memory then when I switch it back which one is causing it to turn off and on the red or yellow as once I find this out I will put a aftermarket reducer on that wire only.

[ski]

this may help or not,Mechanic installed a reducer 24v down to 12v an found that there was a difference in two reducers of half a volt which meant stereo would hold memory or not . After changing reducers it would hold memory..

[Filthy4x4]

you need a 24v to 12v reducer,mine has red(thick)24v input,red(thin)24v input permanent,yellow(thick)12v output,yellow(thin)12v for radio memory,black earth.sorry dont know what make it is.hope this helps.cheers craig

Yup bang on Andy had the same problem with his until he replaced the voltage reducer.

[crazyclark31]

my reducer goes to the bat wire on the stereo and the factory 12v acc wire goes to the acc wire on stereo. The bat wire is for the memory and to supply the grunt and the acc wire is for the switch.
the stereo will switch on and off when there is not enough amps to keep it running. This is normally what happens with the factory feed as the factory reducer is pretty light and normally runs near its max output.

[XJCrawler]

i ended up running a seperate 24v-12v powersupply to run my headunit and amp. had issues with the factory one as headunit would constantly reset no matter what i did. so now im just running the cb & uhf off the factory unit.

[skidmark]

dont know about the factory saf reducer, but when fitting certain reducers into 24v for stereos you have to reverse both the acc and batt on both input and output too make the stereo run. ( so battery in and out becomes acc in and out) hope that makes sense sounded clearer in my head...

[FORGE1]

Sweet thanks for all the replies it all makes sense now so if I put the reducer on the batt wire (yellow) and leave the ACC (red) under the factory reducer I should be sweet.

Thanks agai
Ray

[crazyclark31]

make sure its the factory acc wire. (red one coming outa plug behind stereo mount area)(make sense)?

[slide]

Just be wary that different stereo manufacturers use the red and yellow interchangably between constant and acc.
stereo A might be red=constant,yellow=acc,
then stereo B yellow=constant and red=acc.
Wiring can mess with ya head

[FORGE1]

Yip all makes sense.

Haha yeah wires can be a bastard but I know the JVC one I'm fitting is all good with it wiring so should be sweet.

Thanks heaps

Ray

[3VILC]

The problem is most reducers designed for headunits with both acc and batt wires (including the factory saf one), are wired round the wrong way for new headunits with high power amps. Older units used to run main load thru the acc wire, and the batt wire was just for memory, newer units run the main load thru the batt wire, and the acc is just a switch on wire (same as an external amplifier), so most of the reducers arent designed to run the high current thru the BATT circuit that the new headunits need hence they switch off or continuosly reset. A simple fix is to swap BOTH the inputs and outputs on the reducer usually works (ie. hook 24v ACC in to the 24 BATT in wire, 12v ACC out to the BATT wire on your headunit, and vice-versa).
How i had mine wired was the factory reduced simply supplied the 12v ACC to turn the headunit on and other light loads like radar detector, and a seperate heavier duty reducer hooked straight to the battery supplied the headunit BATT and CB radio. Hope this helps

[muddy]

I ran a wire throught a diode (electrical non-return valve) from the aftermarket inverter (high capacity 12V feed off the ACC switch) through to the factory continuous 12V supply for the memory. That way it holds the memory but prevents back-drain of the battery when everything is off, but draws the higher current load from the aftermarket inverter when the stereo is on. Works well.

[FORGE1]

I know this is draging up my old post but I would rather do that than start a new one.

I NEED HELP haha

My brother wrote off his safari a couple of months back and I managed to get the A/M reducer out of his wagon which was only used for his radio and it worked perfectly. I even took pictures of the wiring so I knew exactly what to cut into etc...well... My wife deleted the pictures

I managed to "T" the switch wire (Red) into the 24v ciggy lighter but when it comes to the memory wire (Yellow) I used a constant wire from what looks to be the 24v to the hazzard lights it still doesnt have enough grunt to run it and keeps turning on and off. I have even changed the Fuses to run a extra 5A but still doesnt change anything.

Can anyone whos installed on please let me know which wire I need to run the memory off??? I have been working on this for most of the weekend and google hasnt helped much either.

Also Running a earth off the headunit and the negatives from the reducer have been joined and earthed seperate to the headunit.

Thanks in advance. I really dont want to pay someone when I reckon its a small thing.