Well, we thought it was. The earth wire in the solenoid pack melted down on Christmas Eve in the Shotover Delta on a trial run... yet to be repaired. What are those albright solenoids sold by 4WDbits like?
Lift & 31's and stuff
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
The winch fitted and ready for use...
Well, we thought it was. The earth wire in the solenoid pack melted down on Christmas Eve in the Shotover Delta on a trial run... yet to be repaired. What are those albright solenoids sold by 4WDbits like?
Well, we thought it was. The earth wire in the solenoid pack melted down on Christmas Eve in the Shotover Delta on a trial run... yet to be repaired. What are those albright solenoids sold by 4WDbits like?
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
And the recovery bar from Bits4Vits. You can see we haven't removed the old hooks yet.
Should improve the approach angle slightly - we had real trouble one day getting out of the Arrow River when the hooks kept catching the frozen bank of the river... But it will also allow the fitting of an a-frame so we can simply tow it to places like ZUKFEST!
Should improve the approach angle slightly - we had real trouble one day getting out of the Arrow River when the hooks kept catching the frozen bank of the river... But it will also allow the fitting of an a-frame so we can simply tow it to places like ZUKFEST!
-
crazyclark31
- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 8:13 pm
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Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Well, we thought it was. The earth wire in the solenoid pack melted down on Christmas Eve in the Shotover Delta on a trial run... yet to be repaired. What are those albright solenoids sold by 4WDbits like?[/quote]
most of those sealed soliniod packs are good. Biggest thing is to get one that is the right ampereage. I've got a runva solinoid pack and cant fault it.
But yeh they are really good.
most of those sealed soliniod packs are good. Biggest thing is to get one that is the right ampereage. I've got a runva solinoid pack and cant fault it.
But yeh they are really good.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Which pieces from Calmini kit did you get? I'm going to order some diff gears from 4xfourart this week. Did you convert your front end to 26 spline?
DISCLAIMER
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
It was an entire calmini 3" kit, but without the front struts (which is no great loss). But we already have strut spacers, diff drop brackets, prop spacer, shocks and struts. After all this I should have a sell off of parts. It was really the front a arms and rear diff hanger I liked. For $700 I thought it was a good deal.
Our Vitara is a 1996 model, 26 spline front as standard. As well as the 1 piece rear axles.
There will be a lot of interest in the vitara community on how those diff gears go. We have opted for the transfer gears (need to order those amongst other things this week) as we will also get a tow frame for longer road trips.
Our Vitara is a 1996 model, 26 spline front as standard. As well as the 1 piece rear axles.
There will be a lot of interest in the vitara community on how those diff gears go. We have opted for the transfer gears (need to order those amongst other things this week) as we will also get a tow frame for longer road trips.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
If the calmini front wishbones arent fitted yet, it would be great if you took the dimensions.
DISCLAIMER
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
I won't have ready access to the vehicle until easter and the calmini kit should be in by then.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
No worries.
What do the calmini control arms do? Correct camber I think. Do they move the wheels forward and out ala Hagen mod? The 4xfour control arms correct camber only.
What do the calmini control arms do? Correct camber I think. Do they move the wheels forward and out ala Hagen mod? The 4xfour control arms correct camber only.
DISCLAIMER
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
New goodies...
This means we are not going with the diff gears. Those are rockmonster 4.24:1 transfer case gears on the right and heavy duty transfer case mounts on the left. Courtesy of Trail Tough.
This means we are not going with the diff gears. Those are rockmonster 4.24:1 transfer case gears on the right and heavy duty transfer case mounts on the left. Courtesy of Trail Tough.
Last edited by Pico42 on Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Pico,
Did you end up going with modified mount positions for the top of the struts to correct camber? If you are using this set up pics would be nice (please).
Did you end up going with modified mount positions for the top of the struts to correct camber? If you are using this set up pics would be nice (please).
DISCLAIMER
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
The strut top mounts are unmodified, the lower mount holes in the OME struts are different to standard to adjust the camber for 2" lift. There are camber bolts in there as well to cater for the third inch of lift.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Pico42 wrote:The strut top mounts are unmodified, the lower mount holes in the OME struts are different to standard to adjust the camber for 2" lift. There are camber bolts in there as well to cater for the third inch of lift.
Thanks Pico, my camber snapped true after stripping the passenger side again.
That falcon alternator was a straight swap? I wouldn't have thought so. Interested to hear.
DISCLAIMER
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
crzyfl wrote:Pico42 wrote:The strut top mounts are unmodified, the lower mount holes in the OME struts are different to standard to adjust the camber for 2" lift. There are camber bolts in there as well to cater for the third inch of lift.
Thanks Pico, my camber snapped true after stripping the passenger side again.
That falcon alternator was a straight swap? I wouldn't have thought so. Interested to hear.
Not quite a straight swap. You have to grind a bit off the alternator mount so it fits onto the engine and change the plug. Seemed no problem for our auto sparky.
We also put the biggest battery we could physically fit in there as well by flattening out the battery tray - a 620CCA one. Seemed to hold up to the winching at Easter.
Last edited by Pico42 on Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
We finally got the Vitara dirty! And some photos! But first...
The Exhaust:
As I mentioned previously, we have changed our exhaust to get rid of the standard manifold and tuck it all up out of the way. But as we all know its how it sounds that people comment on. See below - picture is scrappy, but the sound is clear...
The Exhaust:
As I mentioned previously, we have changed our exhaust to get rid of the standard manifold and tuck it all up out of the way. But as we all know its how it sounds that people comment on. See below - picture is scrappy, but the sound is clear...
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Further to the alternator query above, here is a picture of the alternator from underneath the vehicle. Even the pulley is the right one - I think there was a change from V-belt to multi rib during the 1988 - 1998 run of Vitara's.
We had no difficulties running a 9500lb superwinch over Easter. But will test this further...
We had no difficulties running a 9500lb superwinch over Easter. But will test this further...
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
And while I sort through uploading some more photos, here are some pictures from the recent Easter trips.
The tyre pressure here is about 10psi - 12psi
The tyre pressure here is about 10psi - 12psi
Last edited by Pico42 on Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
What time did you guys get out? Nice piece of country that
Jeremy
Jeremy
If you break it... build it stronger.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
About dusk - say 7:30ish. Got back to Reefton just before 9:00pm. We spent a long time getting out of the chasm - 7 trucks is a lot for that track. Terry broke a trailing arm which took a bit of time to jury rig. Stabilized it with chain and his winch. There was a broken axle in the blue flat deck as well.
We saw you three about 2 or 3 pm? Would have been reasonably quick getting out to the river from there?
Damn good track - keeps you on your toes. We are still buzzing about it.
We saw you three about 2 or 3 pm? Would have been reasonably quick getting out to the river from there?
Damn good track - keeps you on your toes. We are still buzzing about it.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Yeah about 2.30, back at camp about 4.30 - 5.00. Broken rear left window on my truck, and a few love taps, bent idler arm on the surf, minor stuff really. If I didn't have family responsabilitys, we talked of driving back in to the top of the chasm (at the Clark end) to watch. I havn't driven it the direction you went... yet
If you break it... build it stronger.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Transfer Gears:
After much consideration we decided upon new transfer case gears as the way to fix our gearing. At the same time we also got some heavy duty transfer case mounts as we had read of the low gearing flexing things too much.
Sourced from Trail Tough. Low Range Offroad also offers the transfer gears, but Trail Tough had $100 off special which let us get the mounts as well.
Here they are installed:
How do the gears go? Brilliant. Absolutely brilliant. The changed gearing made a massive difference - I could crawl over rocky riverbeds without that "clutch feathering start and stop, compress suspension onto a rock" style most Vitara owners are very familiar with. I still can't get over what a massive difference it made.
We used to get to 100km/h in 5th low at about 6500 rpm. Now we are lucky to reach 50km/h. 3rd low gear is about the same as the original 1st low. We also no longer lack for engine power in those lower gears.
Downsides? Reversing. When you back up in a bog hole, I usually want to have the wheels spinning pretty fast to help clear the treads. This doesn't happen so easily now - I did on one occasion use high range to back up in a hole. Our driving style will have to change a bit as well.
Also, the gearbox and transfer case are probably now back into their "original" positions. But the modification to the gear lever is now no longer quite right - we popped out of 1st and 3rd a lot. These will need to be tickled up a bit. Before doing so we may also change the transfer case cross member to a heavier duty one.
We also got the gearbox reconditioned - 2nd has always been a bit funny. Whole setup now feels tight.
After much consideration we decided upon new transfer case gears as the way to fix our gearing. At the same time we also got some heavy duty transfer case mounts as we had read of the low gearing flexing things too much.
Sourced from Trail Tough. Low Range Offroad also offers the transfer gears, but Trail Tough had $100 off special which let us get the mounts as well.
Here they are installed:
How do the gears go? Brilliant. Absolutely brilliant. The changed gearing made a massive difference - I could crawl over rocky riverbeds without that "clutch feathering start and stop, compress suspension onto a rock" style most Vitara owners are very familiar with. I still can't get over what a massive difference it made.
We used to get to 100km/h in 5th low at about 6500 rpm. Now we are lucky to reach 50km/h. 3rd low gear is about the same as the original 1st low. We also no longer lack for engine power in those lower gears.
Downsides? Reversing. When you back up in a bog hole, I usually want to have the wheels spinning pretty fast to help clear the treads. This doesn't happen so easily now - I did on one occasion use high range to back up in a hole. Our driving style will have to change a bit as well.
Also, the gearbox and transfer case are probably now back into their "original" positions. But the modification to the gear lever is now no longer quite right - we popped out of 1st and 3rd a lot. These will need to be tickled up a bit. Before doing so we may also change the transfer case cross member to a heavier duty one.
We also got the gearbox reconditioned - 2nd has always been a bit funny. Whole setup now feels tight.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Suspension, again:
After all the work putting in the modified Cheap Vitara Lift and getting it certified, we happened upon a secondhand Calmini 75mm kit on Trade Me. $700 later it was all ours.
So in it went, thus triggering another certification. The kit replaced our shocks, rear a-arm & spacer, front a-arms, springs, diff drop brackets and rear trailing arms. The OME struts were kept, but the strut spacers were added.
Front Suspension
Rear spring and trailing arm
"Super articulation" rear diff a-arm replacement
The best parts of these kits are well documented, most likely we will be playing around with replacing the shocks to improve things. It does mean we have a heap of 3" lift spares though.
After all the work putting in the modified Cheap Vitara Lift and getting it certified, we happened upon a secondhand Calmini 75mm kit on Trade Me. $700 later it was all ours.
So in it went, thus triggering another certification. The kit replaced our shocks, rear a-arm & spacer, front a-arms, springs, diff drop brackets and rear trailing arms. The OME struts were kept, but the strut spacers were added.
Front Suspension
Rear spring and trailing arm
"Super articulation" rear diff a-arm replacement
The best parts of these kits are well documented, most likely we will be playing around with replacing the shocks to improve things. It does mean we have a heap of 3" lift spares though.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Door Sills:
Further to what I have previously posted, I have some better photos of the finished sill now. These were the seam welded sill below the doors that we mashed up on rocks last Zukfest. This was cut out and replaced with 100mm x 50mm box section 4mm thick.
This is the entire passenger side sill. You can see how it looks very similar to the factory plastic panels. On the outside, my cut line in the body panel was along the bottom of the first curled part below the door. The separate rock slider is also prominent.
A close up of the rear end - you can see how I squared it off (and how the slider needs to be shortened - they were built for standard guards & 2" body lift)
On the underside, the cut line in the body work is right where the two pieces of body steel meet for the seam weld. The more here the better - the curved corner of the box section nestles nicely inside the cut edge of the existing steel.
You can see the full width of the box section in this photo, from inside weld to outside edge. This also shows the slider quite well, including all of the scrapes.
Even when it was only tack welded in, the sill felt very strong - using any part of the sill as a jack point was not a problem. It will be far stronger on rocks, tree roots etc than the factory sills. That said, we did this modification as a repair after we bought the sliders and also have the sliders fitted - at one point over Easter our sliders were sitting up against sill.
At the front, I tapered the inside edge of the box section over about 120mm to a width of about 30mm. This finished under the bottom of the front guard and I tacked in a vertical bolt to fasten the bottom of the guard to - after trimming the guard back it had little other support.
One final thing, in the qualified opinion of both our Certifier and several WoF inspectors, this modification is classed as a body repair because of the Vitara's separate chassis - which means it is not a trigger for certification.
Further to what I have previously posted, I have some better photos of the finished sill now. These were the seam welded sill below the doors that we mashed up on rocks last Zukfest. This was cut out and replaced with 100mm x 50mm box section 4mm thick.
This is the entire passenger side sill. You can see how it looks very similar to the factory plastic panels. On the outside, my cut line in the body panel was along the bottom of the first curled part below the door. The separate rock slider is also prominent.
A close up of the rear end - you can see how I squared it off (and how the slider needs to be shortened - they were built for standard guards & 2" body lift)
On the underside, the cut line in the body work is right where the two pieces of body steel meet for the seam weld. The more here the better - the curved corner of the box section nestles nicely inside the cut edge of the existing steel.
You can see the full width of the box section in this photo, from inside weld to outside edge. This also shows the slider quite well, including all of the scrapes.
Even when it was only tack welded in, the sill felt very strong - using any part of the sill as a jack point was not a problem. It will be far stronger on rocks, tree roots etc than the factory sills. That said, we did this modification as a repair after we bought the sliders and also have the sliders fitted - at one point over Easter our sliders were sitting up against sill.
At the front, I tapered the inside edge of the box section over about 120mm to a width of about 30mm. This finished under the bottom of the front guard and I tacked in a vertical bolt to fasten the bottom of the guard to - after trimming the guard back it had little other support.
One final thing, in the qualified opinion of both our Certifier and several WoF inspectors, this modification is classed as a body repair because of the Vitara's separate chassis - which means it is not a trigger for certification.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Front Diff:
We found a steel GV diff. So far, only the housing has been installed, after Easter the rest can be done (we also need to decide whether to install a locker at the same time...). Full steel housing & carrier, stubby shaft modification with "banded CV" half shafts. If we break those, an upgrade to the hilux half shafts will be on the cards. 5.125 ratio.
The diff is lowered with drop brackets (firstly Bits4Vits ones, now Calmini) and we also used an angled bush for the 3rd member (from Bits4Vits).
What has been peoples experience with the cross member under the front diff? Ours has held up well, but I have heard some reports of this needing strengthening?
The skid plates are also to be bolted in - these didn't get fitted before Easter as they were still in transit somewhere...
We found a steel GV diff. So far, only the housing has been installed, after Easter the rest can be done (we also need to decide whether to install a locker at the same time...). Full steel housing & carrier, stubby shaft modification with "banded CV" half shafts. If we break those, an upgrade to the hilux half shafts will be on the cards. 5.125 ratio.
The diff is lowered with drop brackets (firstly Bits4Vits ones, now Calmini) and we also used an angled bush for the 3rd member (from Bits4Vits).
What has been peoples experience with the cross member under the front diff? Ours has held up well, but I have heard some reports of this needing strengthening?
The skid plates are also to be bolted in - these didn't get fitted before Easter as they were still in transit somewhere...
Last edited by Pico42 on Sat May 31, 2014 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Cool modifications so far, savvy building it up this way instead of dumping silly $$ into new a new Calmini part.
So the stubby shaft mod, does this allow you to run the same length axles on either side, or is this the one that divorces the axle from the diff, making CV swaps tonnes easier??
So the stubby shaft mod, does this allow you to run the same length axles on either side, or is this the one that divorces the axle from the diff, making CV swaps tonnes easier??
TOYOTA - The Official Vehicle of ISIS!
And makers of the '92 Camry, where you got your first backseat handjob.
And makers of the '92 Camry, where you got your first backseat handjob.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
lax2wlg wrote:Cool modifications so far, savvy building it up this way instead of dumping silly $$ into new a new Calmini part.
So the stubby shaft mod, does this allow you to run the same length axles on either side, or is this the one that divorces the axle from the diff, making CV swaps tonnes easier??
Thanks for that.
It does both, the stubby shaft itself goes into the short side of the diff, giving a flange to which a second passenger side CV can bolt to. So same axles both sides and both bolt/unbolt without needing to remove the hub. So a CV change should take 15 minutes or so for each side. Normally the drivers side can take an hour or two.
And in the future allows the hilux CV upgrade. So we can blow apart the gearbox instead of the CV's...
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Absolutly loving your updates mate!
Giving me far to many ideas though.
Your truck is a weapon!
Giving me far to many ideas though.
Your truck is a weapon!
1994 LWB 1.6 16v Vitara
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Thanks Vitz, appreciate your comments
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Winch:
We have long wanted a winch, but for different reasons its been a long road getting one sorted... and it is still not sorted.
- We decided on a small-medium size winch in keeping with the size of the vehicle, started keeping a look out on Trade Me. Minimum size, 6000lb.
- Bought a Warn M6000 from trade me a few years ago. Got it shipped to Woody so he could build a front bar around it.
- Picked the bar up from Woody, whereupon we found it was a Warn M5000, not a M6000.
- Later found a M6000 on Trade Me so bought that.
- Bolted it on with the winch bar with no rope, no wiring. No time to do anything further as the other modifications had to be sorted for cert before going overseas. And we didn't want to do it half arsed - it gets frowned on if you show up to club trips with a half working winch and no other equipment.
Fast forward to Christmas 2012
- Had the M6000 winch wired up, 50mm cable, in cab controls (in/out, power on/off) and a power isolator on the battery.
- Sourced yellow synthetic winch line, extension line, fitting, hook and a "shackle mount" from Master-pull. Brought it back with us to NZ. Fitted it to the winch.
- Bought a ground anchor. It is huge!
- Did the Longest Day trip into Macetown, the battery isolator vibrated off. Replaced that.
- Went to Shotover Delta to test out the winch and other bits and pieces. Stops when the smoke comes out of the control box. The earth wire is melted down. I repair it on boxing day and find a solenoid is also faulty. And then break the terminal off when undoing the nuts. Got another solenoid, but find a second one is stuffed as well.
- Give up in disgust. I am not an auto electrician and I don't have time for this crap on a Christmas holiday. No trip to Bullendale either. So go to the club grounds and rip the rear brake line off as well. Frustrating to say the least.
Fast forward to Easter 2013:
- Have arranged for the entire control box to be replaced by an intergrated solenoid at 4WD Accessories. It gets fitted the night before we go to Zukfest, whereupon...
- It is found that the bushes in the winch itself are stuffed. Winch doesn't go.
- BUT, we find this out when we pick up the vehicle and ask whats different about the winch in the front.
We were confused until we realised that Rick Crosbie, good bugger that he is, has pulled one of the winches out of his comp truck for us to use (very carefully) for the weekend. A 9500lb superwinch. Thanks Rick!
Actually, Rick has also been doing the calmini kit, the diff conversion and a few other bits and pieces for us. Very happy with it all and would recommend him to others. You just have to listen to a bit of jeep banter.
The winch performed beautifully (once we got the jeep cooties off it). And answered for us the question what size of winch we should get - no more messing around with the smaller ones.
We are still looking for another winch.
And found a picture of it all in action. And during which I discovered that 1) the winch power switch and the in/out switch should not be next to each other because I kept turning the power off while winching, and 2) Its best to not leave the handbrake on the whole time!
We have long wanted a winch, but for different reasons its been a long road getting one sorted... and it is still not sorted.
- We decided on a small-medium size winch in keeping with the size of the vehicle, started keeping a look out on Trade Me. Minimum size, 6000lb.
- Bought a Warn M6000 from trade me a few years ago. Got it shipped to Woody so he could build a front bar around it.
- Picked the bar up from Woody, whereupon we found it was a Warn M5000, not a M6000.
- Later found a M6000 on Trade Me so bought that.
- Bolted it on with the winch bar with no rope, no wiring. No time to do anything further as the other modifications had to be sorted for cert before going overseas. And we didn't want to do it half arsed - it gets frowned on if you show up to club trips with a half working winch and no other equipment.
Fast forward to Christmas 2012
- Had the M6000 winch wired up, 50mm cable, in cab controls (in/out, power on/off) and a power isolator on the battery.
- Sourced yellow synthetic winch line, extension line, fitting, hook and a "shackle mount" from Master-pull. Brought it back with us to NZ. Fitted it to the winch.
- Bought a ground anchor. It is huge!
- Did the Longest Day trip into Macetown, the battery isolator vibrated off. Replaced that.
- Went to Shotover Delta to test out the winch and other bits and pieces. Stops when the smoke comes out of the control box. The earth wire is melted down. I repair it on boxing day and find a solenoid is also faulty. And then break the terminal off when undoing the nuts. Got another solenoid, but find a second one is stuffed as well.
- Give up in disgust. I am not an auto electrician and I don't have time for this crap on a Christmas holiday. No trip to Bullendale either. So go to the club grounds and rip the rear brake line off as well. Frustrating to say the least.
Fast forward to Easter 2013:
- Have arranged for the entire control box to be replaced by an intergrated solenoid at 4WD Accessories. It gets fitted the night before we go to Zukfest, whereupon...
- It is found that the bushes in the winch itself are stuffed. Winch doesn't go.
- BUT, we find this out when we pick up the vehicle and ask whats different about the winch in the front.
We were confused until we realised that Rick Crosbie, good bugger that he is, has pulled one of the winches out of his comp truck for us to use (very carefully) for the weekend. A 9500lb superwinch. Thanks Rick!
Actually, Rick has also been doing the calmini kit, the diff conversion and a few other bits and pieces for us. Very happy with it all and would recommend him to others. You just have to listen to a bit of jeep banter.
The winch performed beautifully (once we got the jeep cooties off it). And answered for us the question what size of winch we should get - no more messing around with the smaller ones.
We are still looking for another winch.
And found a picture of it all in action. And during which I discovered that 1) the winch power switch and the in/out switch should not be next to each other because I kept turning the power off while winching, and 2) Its best to not leave the handbrake on the whole time!
Last edited by Pico42 on Sat Apr 13, 2013 9:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Shackle mount
Thought i would add this as we got a lot of mixed comments on the shackle mount.
When thinking through the winch, we hadn't given much thought about how to fasten the rope when not in use. Except that I have always disliked the method of leaving the first foot of line out across the bumper, I can imagine it taking a lot of abuse. So when we came across this shackle mount on the Master-Pull website, we thought we would give it a go. Especially given the low location of our front recovery points.
Basically it is a billet alloy part which slides over the top of the thimble, secured by a s/s pin, and has a rubber base so as to not scratch up the fairlead. It can be attached to most things with a 4.?T bow shackle.
Pro's: Very tidy appearance, all the line is on the winch and not exposed to brush, mud, gravel, rocks, no chance of pulling it in through the fairlead (and maybe taking a finger with it).
Con's: Not as quick to use as a hook, does protrude out from the front of the bar.
Still debating its merit. If we don't like it, we will swap to the hook we have on the extension rope.
For further info http://www.masterpull.com/Off-Road/Hardware/ProLink/
Thought i would add this as we got a lot of mixed comments on the shackle mount.
When thinking through the winch, we hadn't given much thought about how to fasten the rope when not in use. Except that I have always disliked the method of leaving the first foot of line out across the bumper, I can imagine it taking a lot of abuse. So when we came across this shackle mount on the Master-Pull website, we thought we would give it a go. Especially given the low location of our front recovery points.
Basically it is a billet alloy part which slides over the top of the thimble, secured by a s/s pin, and has a rubber base so as to not scratch up the fairlead. It can be attached to most things with a 4.?T bow shackle.
Pro's: Very tidy appearance, all the line is on the winch and not exposed to brush, mud, gravel, rocks, no chance of pulling it in through the fairlead (and maybe taking a finger with it).
Con's: Not as quick to use as a hook, does protrude out from the front of the bar.
Still debating its merit. If we don't like it, we will swap to the hook we have on the extension rope.
For further info http://www.masterpull.com/Off-Road/Hardware/ProLink/
Re: Lift & 31's and stuff
Actually, there is a lot to fitting a winch.
Bigger battery. About as big as can be fitted by just flattening the battery tray. Any bigger means moving other things around. From memory this is a 600CCA or 650CCA.
I wouldn't get one of the screw in/out isolators again either. The green knob is what fell off going into Macetown. I put a hole through the bolt at the bottom with some wire through it to hold it, but next time would put a simple on/off switch in there - like isolation switches in our work vehicles.
Bigger battery. About as big as can be fitted by just flattening the battery tray. Any bigger means moving other things around. From memory this is a 600CCA or 650CCA.
I wouldn't get one of the screw in/out isolators again either. The green knob is what fell off going into Macetown. I put a hole through the bolt at the bottom with some wire through it to hold it, but next time would put a simple on/off switch in there - like isolation switches in our work vehicles.