V8 Land Rover project

[oldyella]

Thanks for that info.

Well after a bit of test driving I've been finding the ZF auto isn't to keen on reverse or changing gear when its cold. Seems fine when its warm though.

Im trying to decide what course of action to take:

1. Flush tranz. Any possible adjustments or replacement parts people know of?

2. Buy refurbed ZF auto $1500 on exchange basis

3. Buy secondand R380 manual from 1998 disco TDI, adapt to V8


Any thoughts?

Cheers,

Pete

[mike]

manual was way faster and more fun but thrust bearing kept going. The auto was nicer to drive offroad particularly in the scary stuff and never had a problem with it yet.

my 2c

[oldyella]

manual was way faster and more fun

Thats all I heard haha. Anyone got a 4spd rangie gbox & transferbox 4sale?

Well, I've got Tomsoffroad making up some new heavy duty steering arms.

I also decided I needed to sort low the oil pressure in the Rover V8 before it did more damage.

Found the cam in poor condition. Does anyone know if the cams are different through the years? Still waiting to hear back from Auckland cams. Hoping to get a stage 1 cam to give it a bit more go.



Slowly cleaning up engine bits.


Engine has defenately been negelected a few services at some stage. Quite a bit of skunge sitting in the heads.


Did a bit of an inspection of the intake ports. Found the worst ones were where the injectors sit in the intake manifold just before they bolt onto heads.



Might see if E&S Heads can sort out that intake manifold...

The crankshaft has been measured and is within spec so just going to throw some new shells in.

LRS is on the case for all the other bits & peices.

[oldyella]

New high torque cam on the way

Timing cover and rocker shafts de-skunged in the desiel bath tonight. So boring...

[oldyella]

Well since the rockers were clean, I was able to see this damage. The hardening has cracked. Looks like its been like that for ages. The top of the valve doesn't appear damaged...





More concerning is the wear on the rocker shafts. Taking the lot down to E&S tomorrow. See if they reacon its scrap metal or not.

[Mudhog]

How olds that motor? What sort of Km's has it meant to of done?
I'm running the same 3.9 in Mudhog?

[oldyella]

Yea, when I got the disco off TM, the dash had been ripped out. It was sold to me as 240km, 1996. I reacon it did the last 40k without an oil change The rankest oil came out on the first change... Then I did three more changes and they all were just full caramel gunge. Never any metal tho.

New rocker shafts and one rocker sourced locally from Dunedin. E&S head systems will face the rockers. Droppin it off tomorrow.

LRS supplying all the gaskets, oil pump, water pump, cam gears etc.

I'm being a tight ass and the fact that the motor compression tested OK, the heads are staying on. Will give the heads a minor de-skunge but will just change the oil a bit more frequently for a while.

Should have the motor back togeather in a fortnight at this rate.

[Mudhog]

Did you end up getting a cam of Henery at Auckland Cams?
My 3.9 is from a 1996 Disco aswell, clock said 120,000km's when it came out.
I will be keen to see what you think of the new cam and how much difference it makes!

Cheers Brett

[oldyella]

Yip, turned up today. Here are the specs.

[oldyella]

We'll, since the motor needed a bit of work, thought it was the right time to sort out the transmission. It wouldn't change when cold and only went into reverse when it felt like it.

Whipped the sump off the auto to find lots of fine metal...



I'm guessing its shagged... Currently investigating an LT95 replacement. If that falls through, I've got a replacement auto with three month warrenty lined up for $850



Tried my hand at matching the ports on the intake manifold to the ports on the head. Don't know if it will make any difference but I feel better



Got the heads cleaned up. Took about 6hours of de-skunging Rocker shafts all re-built. Found that one rockershaft had been assembled incorrectly in the past which contributed to some of the rockershaft wear.



Hoping to get the engine back togeather this weekend.



Need to finalise the gearbox replacement now...

[Mudhog]

Looking Good

That cam looks like the one I will go for aswell, I'll talk to Henry first as I may have sorted EFi for the Hog off a TVR 5Ltr motor

What plugs are you running?

[oldyella]

Nice one,

Plugs are still standard, I will upgrade once I have finished playing around with the tuning.

Currently Im thinking I will have about a 205hp engine once im complete. Up from 180hp due to the new cam, headers and opening up that restrictive part of the intake manifold.

If I did a stage 1 port job on the heads and increased the compression to 10.5:1 as well, it should have around 235hp. A bit more respectable for a V8 of this capacity I think. I might look at doing this if the engine behaves after this freshen up. Local engine shop quoted me $500 to do a stage 1 port job on the heads & re-grind valve seats.

I think the stock intake manifold is good up to around 250hp. Stock internals max out around similar figures?

I think your TVR intake may need matched to tall port heads? Sounds like you will be in for some reasonable hp gains probably around 250hp if you get it all lined up but won't be cheap.

Cheers,

Pete

[NJV6]

I have an auto in the shed you can have for now if you want? Can buy it off me later if it is any good... No idea on its condition but it has done 117km, oil in it looks fine and the motor that was in front of it is in the Pav and seems to be a good runner. It is still attached to the transfer case.

Glen

[oldyella]

Hey Glen,

Thanks for the offer but today I purchased an LT95 with overdrive and all the random crap to convert to manual.

Excluding flywheel so if someone has one lying around?

I'm planning on tearing down the gearbox for an inspection prior to installing so if I find its stuffed, I'll send you a PM about the auto

Cheers,

Pete

[91Rangie]

I have a flywheel make an offer

[oldyella]

PMd ya.

[oldyella]

Just a couple of quick photos for LRS to show another seal I want to replace.

[DieselBoy]

Yuk, have fun replacing those. I made a copy of the factory service tool to fit mine onto the 300TDI which has the same style "T" seal

[oldyella]

Do they pop out of the grooves?

Will be doing this on an engine stand so not expecting it to be a big job.

[oldyella]

Slapped the V8 back togeather this weekend

Removed crank, cleaned it up, back in with new shells





New performance cam



New timing gears. Bit weird there is no tensioner...



Timing cover back on with new oil pump gears. That should sort the low pressure problems



My reamed out intake manifold on



Trumpets on







Pretty much finished up

[jervisad]

looking very

[oldyella]

Cheers,

Well the LT95 with overdrive turned up friday last week. Ive decided to replace a few seals to try hold a bit more oil in it, throw it in the truck and see what happens.

Currently its in a bit of a state. So it will be more de-skunging good times over the week while the seals turn up.

Doesn't seem to leak out the front


But it does leak everywhere else

Hi-low selector shaft is particularly bad


The other side of the hi-low selector shaft is even worse



Even the gearstick looked like it leaked oil


Front and rear output flanges are also suspect


Last but not least is the selector shaft for the overdrive.


Anyway, should look a bit more respectable by the end of the week.

Anyone else got any other suggestions as to what I should look to service on this before I slap it into the truck?

Cheers,

Pete

[oldyella]

Thanks for the flywheel 91Rangie, got it surfaced at Sim Brakes for $60 and looking purty



New Clutch from LRS



I did the simplest handbrake conversion in the world. Swapped out the 110 handbrake assembly which had linkages and a cable to work the handbrake, for the discovery handbrake assembly which just has one cable.

This just means no pissing around with handbrake leavers and cables

Also replaced the rear main seal while I was in there. Didn't look like it was leaking much though.



Any just finished up de-skunging it really.

[tomsoffroad]

Soooo....... How'd those steering bits work out

[oldyella]

Hey Tom,

Have a look, see what you think.











It looks like the original parnhard was never ideal either... Unless I'm missing something





In all the pics, the parnhard is bolted to the diff. In the pics looking down from the top, the parnhard is sitting in the slot for the top bolt on the chassis.

I set the adjustable parnhard 10mm longer than the original which doesn't help.

Haven't tried the drag link & tierod yet but reacon they will be sweet

[tomsoffroad]

Interesting. Looks like you have enough clearance tho?? Do you think it needs a tweek or is it alright?

[Pedro]

Hey Tom,





It looks like the original parnhard was never ideal either... Unless I'm missing something

looks like there is a panhard mount for a LH drive vehicle directly be ind the chassis mount, (on the diff,) and if you were to put the panhard rod in there then the "kink" in the rod will clear the front of the diff head, land rover probably made one panhard for all models


Pedro

[oldyella]

Ahh so the kink is only required for LH drive versions anyway! Thanks Pedro

Landrover

All good then Tom. I reacon there is enough clearance. We will just see what the cert man says when the day comes...

Cheers,

Pete

[tomsoffroad]

Let me know if you need a letter with welding ticket numbers blah blah

[oldyella]

Will do...

I've got a machinist working on my collapsible steering column and it should be ready after Easter some time. I'll slap a detailed post up when its all complete. Then everything will get put back into the truck (hopefully for the last time for a few years)

Right, after doing some research on this I'm still none the wiser, and it just looks wrong...

Where are the seals for the overdrive selector shaft? And how do I replace them?









I managed to find some exploded views of more modern overdrives an it appears there is some o-rings in there somewhere...

Cheers,

Pete