V8 Land Rover project

[Pedro]

Assuming the o rings are about 16 mm in diameter then remove the bolt securing the selector fork to the shaft.remove grub screw in housing and remove spring and ball beating,
then remove the selector shaft out the back of the box.o ring will be in the Ali housing I would think

Pedro

[oldyella]

Thanks Pedro, selector shaft o-rings in. Got some high temperature ones from Wilson Bro's.

When I took the LR for its test drive last year, the starter solinoid stuck when the engine was hot. Think it was because the exhaust was cooking it.

Does anyone have a heat shield for a V8 disco starter motor? I used to have one but its gone missing over the years



Also, just to try and help the overheating issue further, I was thinking of making some alloy heat sheilds on top of the headers to reflect heat down to try to reduce the engine bay temps. Or would I be better to use some sort of heat wrap?

I also need a vacuum switch to engauge and dis-engauge the center diff lock as part of the LT95 conversion if someone has a spare.

Cheers,

Pete

[Big]

Heat rap does a wonderfull job.. I would use that with a sheild if there is room,
My exhaust was so hot under floor it started to melt the vynile ( spelling..**) and heat rapped the primarys to muffler and heat was all but gone.. works a treat..

[tomsoffroad]

Heat wrap does work very well but....... It promotes rust quite badly by trapping condensation

[oldyella]

Yes, I had a look at how to apply exhaust wrap properly last night and saw some badly rusted headers due to the wrap.

Do you think the fact that I have painted them with high heat paint, which has been baked on already, would reduce this problem?

Any other ideas?

Cheers,

Pete

[Dirtydog]

Id go the heat rap way too, aparently it increases performance by keeping the exhaust hotter aswell, as the exhaust gases move quicker when there more heat.

dont quote me on that though, dont know how reliable it is or if its just one of those gimmics.

Heat wrap does look nice though.

in theory the paint should help, but then again if theres moisture in the paint and it gets baked even more it could releases it under the wrap.

Hard to say.

[turoa]

http://www.hpcoatings.co.nz/ExhaustHeat ... at_Extreme

[Ralfie]

in my opinion, stay away from exhaust wrap.
If you do anything then the HPC coatings is better suited.

[Pedro]

hpc are good but really????
make a ali heat shield to fit over the starter, the ones i fitted to my headers I welded a 6mm bolt to the header, then made the ali heat shield 0.5mm ali, to the shape i desired to protect, in my case oil lines, drilled 6mm hole in that, then use penny washers either side of shield and 6mm nut and lock washer to locate in place, works a treat and cost fark all, not sure if you running electric fans or not, but if mechanical then there is plenty of air circulating around engine bay. remember everything will get coated in mud which acts a heat shield in its self.
pedro

[oldyella]

Thanks for the info.

So when I had it out for its short test run, it overheated (110Deg C) going over the top of Danseys Pass. The computer was still running the engine very rich so I just fed it the fat, 10:1 air/fuel ratio, and the extra fuel cooled the engine down.

The next time was after I had tuned the computer so fueling was about right, and was just playing around with the mixture at a 100km/hr cruise. The engine seems happy enough with the leaner mixture, but the cooling system wasn't as it started to overheat (105deg C and climbing) & I pulled over and opened the bonnet and let it idle with the electric fans on to cool it down. As I was doing 100km/hr when this happened, I think part of the problem was my radiator shroud was restricting air flow. Since then, I have removed the two 10" fans and shroud and fitted one 16" fan with no shroud. But won't be able to test until it is all back up and running.

I have also removed the transmission cooler which was in front of the radiator, part reason for manual conversion, and I will re-locate the engine oil cooler with its own separate fan.

I will have to revisit the tune as the cam will change the VE of the engine. I'll probably look to run 14.7:1 (stoic) mixture for cruising. Was up around 15.7:1.

And the last thing I want to do is try to drop the engine bay temp so the engine isn't sitting in an oven. The exhaust didn't seem to heat up the floor of the truck to badly though.

Looked into HPC and it sounds like it will cost around $500 which is probably a bit rich for me but still waiting on the actual quote.

Any idea of how long it takes for the headers to corrode with wrap on them? 5-10 years? Could probably just replace them with something that will go the distance then.

Pedro, I would be interest in a snap shot of the alloy header covers you built as this is in essence what I was initially thinking. Reflect the radiant heat downward and stop it heating up the alloy guards & hood.

Cheers,

Pete

[Petemcc]

How does the water pump Look?

[oldyella]

The old one was in reasonable nick but have replaced it with new. Also replaced thermostate. Might test the old one to check it opens fully.

[Petemcc]

a bit weird really pete that you are getting overheating at 100k with a big open landy grill etc. Though I've never played with AF ratios before to see the effect on heating.

Any other simple stuff it could be? Radiator cap is good and the system is definitely pressurising as it should. might pay to try a new one?

Also I would have thought your starter motor would have to get bloody hot to make the solenoid stick. that seems a bit weird.

[churchill]

Have you checked this out?

http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Overheating.htm

[oldyella]

Hmm thanks for that.

I did a compression check a while ago and all cylinders checked out OK.

I really will need to do some more running to see if the head gasket is leaking under high load.

After doing some thinking, I have decided to leave the headers for now. A friend convinced me that the radiator does 99% of the cooling anyway and so would be best to spend money on radiator and fan if I still have a problem after the changes I have already made.

[oldyella]

Well, Iv got my collapsable steering column sorted. Required for certification and also, to fit clutch pedal box for manual conversion.

Basically its a Discovery 1 non airbag model steering column with some minor changes.

First, the steering shaft stuck out of the end of the column quite a lot. So I added a short section of the Series 2a steering column tube.

This covers the shaft, gives the factory upper steering column bracket something to clamp to and the aftermarket indicator switch also attaches to it, quite close to the steering wheel so I don't have to over reach to get to the indicators.



Then the bottom bracket column bracket has lots of funny angles and takes ages to get right but this is the result.





Also needed to make a cover for the steering shaft where it comes through the inner guard. Primarily 3" exhaust tube with some extra bits added in.



Waiting for paint to dry. Will get some pics of it installed tomorrow

[oldyella]

And here is the installed result.


I put some motorbike tube over the collapsable section of the steering column. As it was seive like, I was concerned of it filling up with mud.



Cover installed



Upper alloy inner guard installed



Factory Series 2a steering column upper bracket clamping the extension peice of the series 2a column


Now I just need an after market steering wheel and steering should be sorted for cert.

[DieselBoy]

Your just running those aftermarket fans still aye??

We all tried to steer you away from them at the time

Stick a set of AU Falcon fans on it, or any other cooling fan from a car that you can get to fit. It has to be a proper cooling fan, like a proper radiator cooling fan.

Those aftermarket jobs are no more than AUX fans and don't have the CFM to cool an engine buy them selves.

If you aren't running those fans still, ignore my post

[oldyella]

I ditched the 2 x 10" and have slapped on an aftermarket 16" electric and removed oil coolers from infront of the radiator.

I had planned just to use the origional viscious unit but the blades hit the bottom outlet.

I was hoping this would be sufficient but maybe I should listen for once and take a trip to the wreaker with radiator in hand.

The real concern I had was that it overheated doing 100km/hr and I would think anything above 60km/hr the fans wouldn't be needed.

Im guessing I just leaned it out a bit much and although the engine ran ok, the cooling system isn't efficient enough.

[wjw]

I was hoping this would be sufficient but maybe I should listen for once and take a trip to the wreaker with radiator in hand.

You'll be glad you did, there is a massive difference....

[tomsoffroad]

The real concern I had was that it overheated doing 100km/hr and I would think anything above 60km/hr the fans wouldn't be needed.

If the fan is still running at higher speed, wouldn't it create a "wall"?

[mike]

I think at 15km/hr the fan is pretty much redundant. So yeah your 100km/hr overheating isnt the fan in my cheap as opionion.

[oldyella]

If the fan is still running at higher speed, wouldn't it create a "wall"?

Fans were off at the time but the shroud I installed at the time would have been quite restrictive at those speeds.

I suspect the primary problem is the AFR's. I plan to bring the AFR ratio back to 14.7:1 at a 100km/hr cruize. Might be able to run a bit leaner at ligher loads like a 80 - 60km/hr cruize.

As soon as you hoof it I have set the MSII to drop the AFR ratio to 13.5:1 for low to mid rev range torque through to 12.5:1 for max HP at the rev limiter. I had a great time instrucing the driver to plant it and take it to the limiter while I was tuning the MSII with the laptop.

[DieselBoy]

The other option to fix cooling issues is to increase the water volum of the cooling system. Basically a bigger radiator with bigger tanks that holds more water.

It's what all the Chev heads have to do to their Fawtys

[Cameron]

If you run either side of stoich then it'll run a bit cooler at cruise? I know of a heap of guys that tune their junk to run up round 16:1 at cruise with no problems!

[SMOKEY]

I had the same problem with OLD SMOKEY running the same fan set up, wasted $500, threw the lot out and put a viscous fan on and had trouble getting it hot enough. With the fine-line 17" electric fan it didn't make any difference on the open road to the temperature but put your foot down , head wind or up hill even slight the temp would go up and keep rising, they just don't shift enough air, well not in my case.

KEEP COOL,

FITZY.

[niblik]

Best mod in my opinion is to get one of those cheap units out of south Auckland. Really cheap and nasty but move a shitload of hot air. Not much good for anything else. Can have a bit of a whining noise though.

They are called R.E.X units. Trademark colour is ranga from memory.

[tomsoffroad]

Best mod in my opinion is to get one of those cheap units out of south Auckland. Really cheap and nasty but move a shitload of hot air. Not much good for anything else. Can have a bit of a whining noise though.

They are called R.E.X units. Trademark colour is ranga from memory.

[Cameron]

what's your timing like? retarded timing causes heat issues.

[niblik]

what's your timing like? retarded timing causes heat issues.

The R.E.X units are retarded 'out of the box'..