Aussie Lokka front & rear now fitted

[nzlux]

Opinions please.

I can get Aussie Lokkas for my single cab LN106 hilux (leaf sprung soild front axle) for $360, plus fitting.

As the price is right I can afford two (note can't afford air or e-lockers)

The hilux is also my daily drive, doing 50kms a day on sealed roads.

What are peoples thoughts on installing auto lockers into a daily drive and if I do should I go front (wont effect the hilux on road as it has part time 4wd and manual hubs) rear (better off road than a front locker??) or both?

[Smurf]

No harm having one in the rear on road, just have to learn how to drive with one in there. Don't power through corners, so it doesn't lock up.
I only have one in the front at present, will be getting a rear when funds allow.
There are pros and cons as to having only one, front or rear.
If you can justify two then go for it, just be aware it will change the cornering habits on and offroad. (Don't try 4wd donuts on firm ground)
Can you get a third at that price? I'd be keen on one.

[nzlux]

Power round a corner??? its a non turbo 2.8 diesel but I get what you mean.

With the low American dollar they work out at about $360 delivered,

http://lokka.com/site/

GST is payable if the GST will be $60 ($60/15% = $400) so I will need to buy one at a time or pay GST on top, it won't be long before the Govt is onto that and GST goes on everything

[lax2wlg]

I recently put an Aussie in the rear of my truck, its sooo much quieter than I thought. Easy DIY install, just a couple of clearances that need to be perfect (intercam clearance, cross shaft to spacer clearance). Off road stays locked hard.

4WD systems say most people report a bigger benefit with only the front locked, esp on vehicles w limited travel. Having driven them, I personally dont like front lunchbox lockers, a locked diff by its nature is very harsh, for me thats too much shock loading going through the front end all the time, I'd rather pick a different line than be changing axles in the bush (jinks)

I ended up going for LSD front/Aussie rear.

Check out Youtube videos of twin Aussie locker trucks, the front ones are noisy as hell. But yes they give mega traction!

[IcedJohnno]

Years ago there was an Aussie forum that compared both front & rear lockers operating on their own. Think it was in a 60 series.
Their tested outcomes proved Front only is way better off-road than rear only.

To the comments posted before mine; I have a LockRight in the front of my Prado. It is very smooth and there is no shock loading. You do have to remember that at times all that drive may be going through only one CV though. Mine has lasted 160,000 kms and I am just replacing it now!

Possibly the clunky lokka was setup with large clearances, or it may be that the 4pinion style one (normally in rear) that I have in the front is a smoother action. I think so.

Edit: ... lasted 160,000 kms and I am just replacing one of the CVs now!

[tweake]

with rear auto locker daily around town driving is a pain.
tight corners and acceleration don't go well together.
however highway is fine and country gravel roads its excellent.

[nzlux]

with rear auto locker daily around town driving is a pain.
tight corners and acceleration don't go well together.
however highway is fine and country gravel roads its excellent.

How bad is a rear auto locker turning left at lights when they turn green etc

I drive mainly open sealed roads to Whangarei and park just off the bypass… not much around town

[tweake]

How bad is it turning left at lights when they turn green etc

I drive mainly open sealed roads to Whangarei and park just off the bypass… not much around town

its not to bad from stand still. i have a few intersections that are a pain.
one is an hill start and sharp turn, putting power down makes the diff lock on hard so you squeal the tires now and then.

lights are generally easy because you can take your time. pulling out into fast moving traffic is tricky as you tend to boot it and that locks the diff.

don't forget tire size. this type of locker is only for 34" or less tires.
when it locks either the tire gives or the diff does! small slippery tires are easier than big sticky tires. my skinny 31" muds are ok.

[nzlux]

I have 31x10.5x15 (skinny muds) as my hilux does not have a turbo, so slippery tyres and low power, will I be fine with a rear locker?

[callum007]

My lokka was fine on 37's..

[andrew007]

mine was fine with 36 simexs & a v8

[nzlux]

As mine needs to be my daily drive I am no looking at putting bigger tyres on it. Good to know an auto locker can handle bigger tyres though.

[tweake]

I have 31x10.5x15 (skinny muds) as my hilux does not have a turbo, so slippery tyres and low power, will I be fine with a rear locker?

yeah it will be ok.

the locker should survive (plenty of yanks rock crawl with 37"+ tires) but the lockers are only guaranteed with 34" tires (can't remember which brand that was). the carrier replacement style auto locker is much stronger than the lunchbox style locker.

point about the big tires is the more grip they have the more fight they will do onroad and make it much more uncomfortable to drive onroad.

[nzlux]

Ordered both the front and rear lockers, will put an update once they have a arrived and are installed.

[tallsam66]

Ive got lockrite in back of mine ...no issue driving on the seal if ya drive it correctly ...can be a little tricky at times on loose shingle ..back end can lock up & go a little sideways at times ...solution..put into 4wd.
The best mod you can do for the money.

[lax2wlg]

Possibly the clunky lokka was setup with large clearances, or it may be that the 4pinion style one (normally in rear) that I have in the front is a smoother action. I think so.

Edit: ... lasted 160,000 kms and I am just replacing one of the CVs now!

Possibly, different strokes I guess, you've got the solid axle so fewer moving parts, harshness/extra lash/noise are commonly reported on front lockers...

Mine's a 2-pin for a Safari front, chances are we have the same product, different model of course, the brandname has changed from Lockrite to Aussie Locker to Lokka Lockrite to Lokka over the last 13 years.

160,000km of offroad driving in 4x4 with the hubs engaged is mighty impressive with a locked front

but the lockers are only guaranteed with 34" tires

According to who? Lokka offer 3 year unconditional warranty, unconditional tyre size or power. ARB says warranty is void if you go 5% over factory tyre size!

the carrier replacement style auto locker is much stronger than the lunchbox style locker.

According to who? Drop in locker failure rate is comparatively low if its installed properly. I'd rather have a locked OEM Nissan carrier than a Chinese aftermarket carrier, and Yukon Zip lockers have a pretty poor reputation too.. ARB yes, if you have an inherently shitty differential center, but otherwise if you look at the failure rates, auto (un)lockers are a pretty damn good choice.

[tweake]

but the lockers are only guaranteed with 34" tires

According to who? Lokka offer 3 year unconditional warranty, unconditional tyre size or power. ARB says warranty is void if you go 5% over factory tyre size!

as i said i can't remember which brand it was. it may be in one of the manuals.

the carrier replacement style auto locker is much stronger than the lunchbox style locker.

According to who? Drop in locker failure rate is comparatively low if its installed properly. I'd rather have a locked OEM Nissan carrier than a Chinese aftermarket carrier, and Yukon Zip lockers have a pretty poor reputation too.. ARB yes, if you have an inherently shitty differential center, but otherwise if you look at the failure rates, auto (un)lockers are a pretty damn good choice.

you miss the bus there.
i was comparing full carrier auto locker (eg Grizzly/Detroit) to lunch box style, not selectable lockers or Chinese made vers usa made. assuming all materials are suitable, lunchbox's are just smaller.
having said that if your not breaking toyotas weak gears then you shouldn't ever break one.

[nzlux]

but the lockers are only guaranteed with 34" tires

if your not breaking toyotas weak gears then you shouldn't ever break one.

My hilux is 24 years old (1989 LN106) 2.8 (non turbo) diesel, it can't even break 100km/h unless its flat or downhill, that being said it goes well off road in low box (when compared to the pajero it replaced).

Im looking forward to seeing how it goes with auto lockers

[lax2wlg]

you miss the bus there.
i was comparing full carrier auto locker (eg Grizzly/Detroit) to lunch box style, not selectable lockers or Chinese made vers usa made. assuming all materials are suitable, lunchbox's are just smaller.
having said that if your not breaking toyotas weak gears then you shouldn't ever break one.

Ahh right you are my bad.. not trying to sound like a sucker of the cock, but I still don't get it when you say full carrier lockers are stronger than drop in... cause that suggests that adding a drop-in is somehow going to weaken the entire differential, which is not the case at all.

But if money were no object, I'm sure we can all agree we would have a selectable front locker as a first choice.

[nzlux]

Had the lokka's fitted on Friday (by a mechanic as I did not want to get it wrong).

In 4wd (off road) steering is heavy, I can live with that it it is correct, but I decided to check if the diffs unlock.

I jacked the vehicle up with one wheel held backwards the other will not turn forward (doesn't matter if it is in gear or not) Front and rear are the same. I phoned the mechanic and he said that it is fine as they tested it in a carpark and the outside wheel did unlock (I hope he only tested the rear diff like this)

I was sure that I was meant to be able to turn a wheel forward with the other held back or am I wrong?

[tweake]

its in the instruction book that comes with them.

off the top of my head you jack both wheels up, spin both tires (they will be locked together, then while its spinning slow one down (or stop one) and you should here the locker clicking.

i found it easier to check by driving on flat gravel in a wide circle and you can see the ripped up gravel where the locker unlocks/locks.

[trucked]

its in the instruction book that comes with them.

off the top of my head you jack both wheels up, spin both tires (they will be locked together, then while its spinning slow one down (or stop one) and you should here the locker clicking.

i found it easier to check by driving on flat gravel in a wide circle and you can see the ripped up gravel where the locker unlocks/locks.

Yeah that sounds about right, off the top of my head it goes like

rear axle: jack up, make sure its in gear, get another mate to help, each take a wheel, rotate both wheels in one direction this locks the diff, one then holds a wheel while the other rotates in the oppisite direction it should click and rotate.

front axle is pretty much the same but you need it in 4wd and hubs locked.

[nzlux]

Thanks guys. I was working from memory because the mechanic kept the fitting and testing instructions.
He did say call in if I have any problems so will head there Monday.

[nzlux]

Dropped the hilux off today, speaking to the mechanic he said that it was within spec (just as it was tight with the original shims in there) and they had managed to spin a wheel and overrun the locker (using a long bar and a lot of force).

Before driving in I had put tape on the wheels, to see whether the wheels were managing to overrun the locker. 26kms to the mechanics and both tapes where still lined up…. said to the mechanic maybe try narrower shims and get the gaps in spec so you can overrun the locker with your hand, rather than a long bar!!!

[tweake]

the locker dosn't quite work like that. making the clearances bigger doesn't make them unlock easier. bigger clearance just means your more likely to break it.
as long as it has enough clearance to unlock, then thats it.

if your driving smooth corners they won't unlock. however do tight turns in a car park and they will.

[suzolla]

Hi,

speaking to the mechanic he said that it was within spec (just as it was tight with the original shims in there) and they had managed to spin a wheel and overrun the locker (using a long bar and a lot of force).

Sounds like you need a new mechanic, with wheels off the ground and in gear with motor stopped, should be able to turn each wheel easily by hand, may hear a clicking sound as it goes around.

Wheels should only be locked together when the carrier is being driven, forward or reverse, the cross pin pushes the 2 center pieces apart to engage the outer pieces that are mounted on the axle ends.

With an Auto Locker it is important that the tyre rolling radius is the same on each side, otherwise you will get some wind up while under power, but as soon as you take your foot off the gas the wind up will be released.

Hope that makes sense.

Cheers
Tim

[suzolla]

opps, double post

[tweake]

Wheels should only be locked together when the carrier is being driven, forward or reverse, the cross pin pushes the 2 center pieces apart to engage the outer pieces that are mounted on the axle ends.

no.
your forgetting the little springs also force the halves out. so its normal position is always locked and its only when you reach a minimum difference in torque between the wheels, and its not being driven by the carrier, that it will unlock.

[suzolla]

Yes true there are "little" springs, but they don't really lock it as you should be able to turn one wheel by hand, shouldn't require a big bar to get a wheel to turn, it is really the action of the cross pin that locks the wheels together.
Cheers
Tim

[nzlux]

Thanks for your replies.

I think the main problem for my (soon to be ex) mechanic is that he did not think a locker would do anything and therefore he thought it needed to be as tight as possible to work. Am I right in assuming he is wrong?

I thought that there needed to be enough clearance so that one wheel can override the other (when in gear with both wheels off the ground) admittedly with some clicking sounds and so long as the two halves are within spec the cross pin will lock it when I apply power through the drive shaft?