drive-shaft problem / ideas?

[tuk]

Was on the home stretch on a holden v6 conversion into a daihatsu rugger and went to push my truck foward and the universal (transfer end) binds up on the front drive shaft. Its on a huge angle (s.o.a, motor mounted high) so just looking at various options.
I have a double knuckle type but guessing its a toyota bolt pattern and im looking to bolt to isuzu transfer case.
It looks like i could re-drill the transfer case side? would that be very strong?
could possibly weld a plate to that bracket thats slightly bigger in diameter and bolt through both bits.

any ideas?

[shortylux]

I cant see any problem with redrilling so long as the centre flange centre are the same size (ie it is hubcentric, not relying on bolts to centre it)
Another option would be to change motor/box mounts so that it is all on an angle. Lower box but keep engine at the same height. Bit of mucking around but probably a better solution.
Or look at a custom cv drive shaft like OPW in Aussie make.

[Crash bandicoot]

the trick is a 50mm spacer isuzu bolt pattern one side rugger the other.... with threaded holes, lock tight and spring washers on the bolts...the advantage of this is you don't need two spanners to undo it.

Taylor engineering in wanganui made one for my Rb30det/hilux conversion for 70 dollars and even fitted it too.

I must add that i hadn't made the drive shaft yet so we weren't to concerned about length at that time

[Trundle]

You can part the flange off in the lathe , machine a prep and then have a decent qualified welder weld a hilux flange to it if your after a really quick alternative , i have a v8 rx7 making 500rwkw running a simular mod to put commodore cv;s in and none have failed yet , alternatively the re drill is also an option

[shortylux]

But a 50mm spacer makes the drive shaft 50mm shorter, compounding the problem. Would be perfect if you had drive shaft space to spare (I am using spacers like this), but not ideal for this particular problem.

[Dirtydog]

wouldnt lowering the trans down and keeping engine in the same place put the flange on the wrong angle for the front?

I would have thought putting a spacer between trans or transfer case would make front drive shaft longer, reducing angels?

In terms of cutting driveshafts and lengthening/shortening or swapping flanges, its not a big task, aslong as the person knows what theyre doing.

[shortylux]

Shit. Sorry. I read that wrong. Thought we were talking about a rear drive shaft.
Dirty dog may be right. Lowering the gearbox may not solve your issue. You would have to do some careful measuring.

[GotFlex]

Ditch the double Carson and run a single uni setup, and then you can clearance any part that binds
That's what we done in my solid axle mu,
You can more angle off the single uni va the double

[GotFlex]

Also yes redrill the Isuzu output, had it done on my Hilux with the same v6 swap as yours
PM deranged he did mine and knows his stuff

[tuk]

Ditch the double Carson and run a single uni setup, and then you can clearance any part that binds
That's what we done in my solid axle mu,
You can more angle off the single uni va the double

so you run a double and a single? iv got a good pile of shafts to play with? 3 or 4 of these double universal thingys as well

[rokhound]

Are those dble carden joint you have off solid axle trucks or IFS?
It is well known that the Toyota IFS double carden does not have much flex. They can be clearanced to work though.

[tomsoffroad]

Front d/cardon joints front solid axle Hilux's are stupid prices now. KZN185 Surfs have a d/cardon rear d/shaft which allows the same amount of angle.

[tuk]

unsure what they have come off? just went to the communal pile of drive shaftes that we have stored for conversions.

any way of identifying them?

[tuk]

the trick is a 50mm spacer isuzu bolt pattern one side rugger the other.... with threaded holes, lock tight and spring washers on the bolts...the advantage of this is you don't need two spanners to undo it.

Cant really push the drive shaft out any further (spacer) as its pretty close to the gearbox sump already.
proberally compounded the issue by shorting the gearbox shaft too.....

[Fakey]

If the unis are binding at ride height you've got a big problem. I doubt you'll find any driveshaft that will cope with that much angle when the suspension is cycled downwards, unless you significantly limit the suspension travel. Maybe a cv joint shaft could handle it?
You may need to either lower the engine and drive train and also look at cutting and turning the knuckles on the front diff so you can point the diff pinion up towards the transfer case more.
Got any pics of the truck as it sits now?

[tuk]

You may need to either lower the engine and drive train and also look at cutting and turning the knuckles on the front diff so you can point the diff pinion up towards the transfer case more.
Got any pics of the truck as it sits now?

re-pulled diff out last wekend and re-cut the brackets off the diff, even rolling the diff wont be a feasible option, i will stuff my steering up if it rolls too much and it needed to go alot, its just sitting on a lifting frame off the diff at the moment, il sort the shaft and then weld the brackets back on.

[tuk]

forgot to say its just a river / mud pig....

[Dirtydog]

Is there any way you could move engine backwards? or run a divorced transfer case?

Seems like the only way to make the situation any better is by making front drive shaft longer,

or you could run a double shaft setup (think thats what theyre called) with a hanger bearing in the middle with another Uj, that way it would slightly correct the angles, but its introducing yet another UJ and the driveshaft would have a slightly bent shape then.

[tuk]

I reckon that re-drilling the isuzu side to fit the double adapter knuckle should be the go (easiest & cheapest), the shaft in the pictures is the new 1 that i think will work. The drive shaft that didnt work was back yard made but isnt in these pictures but will grab a picture when i get hm.
dam winter - go to work in the dark and come home in the dark.....

[Fakey]

re-pulled diff out last wekend and re-cut the brackets off the diff, even rolling the diff wont be a feasible option, i will stuff my steering up if it rolls too much and it needed to go alot, its just sitting on a lifting frame off the diff at the moment, il sort the shaft and then weld the brackets back on.

I meant cut and turn the knuckles so that the steering stays in the same place but the diff head is rotated upwards.
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa/5.html

[tuk]

never though of that idea, that would actually work with a bit of mucking around, im guessing youd have to do the leaf hangers also. maybe easier that redoing all my custom motor /gearbox mounts.
thanks for that link..

cheers

[GotFlex]

Run to single ujs in the front shaft, clearance then out as much as you can, and possibly look at running a high pinion diff head,

[De-Ranged]

throw that double carden drive shaft.... the joint is too long, by the time you finish the bend the d/s tube is 100mm further forward meaning it has to bend further
Go to a rear drive shaft and shorten it to fit, if need be die grind the universal joints a bit for clearance (and no I don't mean one of the late model hilux ones with a double carden, an ordinary one with universals)

A double carden joint is used to remove the fast slow motion of a universal at
exteme angle.... only really usefull on a road truck

A lot less work than turning steering balls and rotating spring perches

[tuk]

Hi De-ranged,
here is what im trying to achieve in the pictures, i got 4 kids and a morgage so trying every option to cost no money. any help or direction appreciated..

[tuk]

couple more pics

[De-Ranged]

I just spotted where your from....
Dont know what your original shaft is from I'd say a car from how tight the UJ"s are,
Looking at the angle the shaft at rest, and you'll need even more at drop I think the single UJ is a better option
Try the double carden joint just in case, jack the front of the truck up to full suspension travel and vice grip the double carden joint onto the transfer case drive flange and just see if it will angle down to the diff, it may do its hard to tell from the pics
If it dosent then I'd look at using the big drive shaft in your parts pic (the long one with the expanded tube) measure the crushed ends of the tube where it is welded to the UJ's/slip joint, it should match the dia of the length of tube you have near the top of the pic, theres your drive shaft bits
If that dosen't work head down to the local engineer and get a bit of pipe machined to the length you need so it will slip over the cast pieces of that long drive shaft

All else fails, next time I go down to see Wingnut I can nip in and have a look, take some measurements and sort the problem

[tuk]

cheers for the quick repy, my mate made that drive shaft with the circle around the original transfer case nuckle, the shaft is made from a sleeve on a sleeve on sleeve (back yard style i know but...)
That double cardon looks like it gets more angle than my orginal so will try clamping it in place and turning to see if it binds.
The trucks at full hight at the front as the purches are just sitting there as may have to slighlty roll diff aswell.

cheers

[Weemsy]

Hey Brendon, just promise deranged a box of bourbons and he will be there in less than 30 minutes

[Big]

Had a read and another option which I've seen before.. But you could even put another double cardon joint on the axle side..so having 2 DC joints.. which in turn allows even more angle.. Just throwing it out there..

[tuk]

hey weemsy, as you can see I don't think il be making the mudy season this year , mite have to aim for the summer river season instead
circumstances and priorities have changed for a couple of the mates so things have had to be put on the back burner, mite catch you up if your passing sometime again.

cheers