Hi all,
Just wondering what is exactly needed for such a swap?
I am picking up a double cab ln106 on sunday and want to start gathering parts as quickly as poossible.
Wanting a list of every detail needed cheers
RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
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- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 294
- Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:06 am
- Location: Ashburton
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
Hi,
Just a suggestion, rather than expect someone else to come up with a detailed list, would be better to do some research and produce your own list and then post it up and ask people if there is anything you have missed or should change.
Just a thought
Cheers
Tim
Just a suggestion, rather than expect someone else to come up with a detailed list, would be better to do some research and produce your own list and then post it up and ask people if there is anything you have missed or should change.
Just a thought
Cheers
Tim
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
This should provide most if not all the info you require as well as a how to and how not to and give you an idea of how it all works
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/search/google
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/search/google
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- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 294
- Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:06 am
- Location: Ashburton
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
Sorry guys was a rushed lunchtime post but got called out before I could add in my list.
I know I will need to get a set of springs from out of a falcon wagon, already got a set hopefully lined up but not confirmed. I also know that I will need extended brake lines and extended shackles (with the shackles if I'm wanting to use them to gain extra lift in the front and rear, I will need longer shackles in the rear than in the front, correct? as I know the coon springs have a less of an arch with the weight on them) new bushes and longer shocks, and a drop drag link?
is there anything I have missed? would I be best to install hi-steer arms etc at the same time or is it not a complete must do?
Also I see some people cut and shift the rear spring hangers, but then others don't. whats the go there? yea or nah?
Cheers guys
I know I will need to get a set of springs from out of a falcon wagon, already got a set hopefully lined up but not confirmed. I also know that I will need extended brake lines and extended shackles (with the shackles if I'm wanting to use them to gain extra lift in the front and rear, I will need longer shackles in the rear than in the front, correct? as I know the coon springs have a less of an arch with the weight on them) new bushes and longer shocks, and a drop drag link?
is there anything I have missed? would I be best to install hi-steer arms etc at the same time or is it not a complete must do?
Also I see some people cut and shift the rear spring hangers, but then others don't. whats the go there? yea or nah?
Cheers guys
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
Haven't done one myself so not much use in that department. But can help with extended brake lines, high steer parts and dropped pitman if required. or flat one if required. Also have IFS steering box mount if required.
See http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=27836
Also got shocks if required see http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=33712
Cheers
Tim
See http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=27836
Also got shocks if required see http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=33712
Cheers
Tim
Last edited by suzolla on Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
got coon leaves in the garage free if you pick them up lol.
The_wehi@hotmail.com
(027 788 1046)
pzj70,35's,Lockers,Winch and some stickers for added flex.
^^Soon to be on safari axles and 5.13's, 37's linked front and rear^^
Ln60 project (money pit) <-- Sold
Pzj77 Turbo/auto,33's .
(027 788 1046)
pzj70,35's,Lockers,Winch and some stickers for added flex.
^^Soon to be on safari axles and 5.13's, 37's linked front and rear^^
Ln60 project (money pit) <-- Sold
Pzj77 Turbo/auto,33's .
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
I assume your search button is broken, or can't be bothered/useless
This is fairly complete recipe for ruf and coons with high steer
Front:
Drop cross member 50mm
High steer kit from suzola
Ifs surf steering box + longer steering shaft, can't remember what they come from
New mount for steering box
Crush tubes for new steering box mount
Probably want to reinforce chassis while your there
Longer shocks
Possibly new shock mounts depending on shock size
Extended shackles 50mm
Rear leaves, take top 3 leaves from rear and mate them with bottom 3 from from top
U bolt flip(not required but good idea)
Possibly longer brake lines some get away with moving mount
Rear coon:
Coon leaves from old falcon wagon or ute
Longer shocks
New front mount, falcon leaves are wider and alot longer than hilux
New rear mount approx 50mm back and blocked 50mm down
New shackles
Longer brake lines
U bolt flip
Remount shocks top and bottom
There's probably a few bits I've forgotten, I'm away from my computer so can't check
This is fairly complete recipe for ruf and coons with high steer
Front:
Drop cross member 50mm
High steer kit from suzola
Ifs surf steering box + longer steering shaft, can't remember what they come from
New mount for steering box
Crush tubes for new steering box mount
Probably want to reinforce chassis while your there
Longer shocks
Possibly new shock mounts depending on shock size
Extended shackles 50mm
Rear leaves, take top 3 leaves from rear and mate them with bottom 3 from from top
U bolt flip(not required but good idea)
Possibly longer brake lines some get away with moving mount
Rear coon:
Coon leaves from old falcon wagon or ute
Longer shocks
New front mount, falcon leaves are wider and alot longer than hilux
New rear mount approx 50mm back and blocked 50mm down
New shackles
Longer brake lines
U bolt flip
Remount shocks top and bottom
There's probably a few bits I've forgotten, I'm away from my computer so can't check
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
not a bad summary. Longer drive shaft or spacer for the front could be on there too with moving front diff forward. Edit as deranged said added flex can cause th stanard slipjoint to be too short.
Last edited by Petemcc on Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
Do wide axel conversion on the rear to, you get rubbing on chassis problems if you don't, all of this is covered in my old build thread, again quite searchable
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
I've done more than a few of these
You don't need longer brake lines just remount the chassis end lower, on the front you move the mount to the side and bottom of the chassis and the rear you mount the flexy line down further
Another tip you want an extra long leaf in the Koon pack if you aren't running a torque arm and I drill the top two (or if there is an extra leaf 3) leaves to center the axle on the pack the bottom leaves can be spun round, drilling them also tells you if the pack is any good, if the drill goes through easily the pack will sag and/or brake, if it sounds like the drill is going to brake and you have to push with the drill press then its a good pack... rule of thumb latter model the pack is the better it seems
You need custom U bolts for the coon springs... been told Mazda make one that works but nobody has ever told me the model I just make my own
You have to go X over steering with rears up front because your drag link needs to be shortened (legally you can't weld it if your road going) if you do this will cause bump steer... so we go X over to solve this
Buy the flat pitman arm from Tim, it means the steering box doesn't have to be mounted on as much angle this means you won't need another steering column, you will also need a shortened tie-rod and drag link
Never heard of mixing front and rear packs... seems a waste to me, front springs are flatter and not as long and don't flex as well but I spose that helps with the next thing
If your RUF setup is good you will have more flex than the standard slip joint on a front drive shaft can handle you will need to sort this or limit travel
If you want your new front springs to last don't let them invert, set your front bump stops so the spring is at most only slightly inverted.... they will flex up way past this, the catch is they loose there arc if you let them flex like this... I recomend people leave the load leaf on for this reason
As far as shocks
Up front 10" travel is about what you need and depending on what you use you don't need to worry about changing the top mount
Out back depending on the pack you are looking up to 12"
Look up projects I've done on here there are at least two that I've done on here
You don't need longer brake lines just remount the chassis end lower, on the front you move the mount to the side and bottom of the chassis and the rear you mount the flexy line down further
Another tip you want an extra long leaf in the Koon pack if you aren't running a torque arm and I drill the top two (or if there is an extra leaf 3) leaves to center the axle on the pack the bottom leaves can be spun round, drilling them also tells you if the pack is any good, if the drill goes through easily the pack will sag and/or brake, if it sounds like the drill is going to brake and you have to push with the drill press then its a good pack... rule of thumb latter model the pack is the better it seems
You need custom U bolts for the coon springs... been told Mazda make one that works but nobody has ever told me the model I just make my own
You have to go X over steering with rears up front because your drag link needs to be shortened (legally you can't weld it if your road going) if you do this will cause bump steer... so we go X over to solve this
Buy the flat pitman arm from Tim, it means the steering box doesn't have to be mounted on as much angle this means you won't need another steering column, you will also need a shortened tie-rod and drag link
Never heard of mixing front and rear packs... seems a waste to me, front springs are flatter and not as long and don't flex as well but I spose that helps with the next thing
If your RUF setup is good you will have more flex than the standard slip joint on a front drive shaft can handle you will need to sort this or limit travel
If you want your new front springs to last don't let them invert, set your front bump stops so the spring is at most only slightly inverted.... they will flex up way past this, the catch is they loose there arc if you let them flex like this... I recomend people leave the load leaf on for this reason
As far as shocks
Up front 10" travel is about what you need and depending on what you use you don't need to worry about changing the top mount
Out back depending on the pack you are looking up to 12"
Look up projects I've done on here there are at least two that I've done on here
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- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 294
- Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:06 am
- Location: Ashburton
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
Thanks heaps everyone, you guys really are a wealth of knowledge!!
Sorry for not having a decent search, on faults this week and keep getting called out just as I get time to look, why a farmer wants power to their pump/bastard shearing shed at 10pm or 3am is far beyond me but it pays the bills!
I will look over the above mentioned threads and then post any other questions I have.
Cheers once again fellas
EDIT: Suzolla, will be ordering a high steer kit when I am ready plus ifs box mount, would rather support you than an overseas company!
Sorry for not having a decent search, on faults this week and keep getting called out just as I get time to look, why a farmer wants power to their pump/bastard shearing shed at 10pm or 3am is far beyond me but it pays the bills!

I will look over the above mentioned threads and then post any other questions I have.
Cheers once again fellas
EDIT: Suzolla, will be ordering a high steer kit when I am ready plus ifs box mount, would rather support you than an overseas company!
Re: RUF + Coon springs - Whats involved
For mine used xd ute leafs,I redrilled the holes to the middle of only the main leaf (exactly halfway between eyes) and all the others just spun around this meant the front mount was moved a wee bit further forward than normal, eye bolt in mount was directly below one end of the wee square hole in chassis, rear mount didn't need moved back then, just blocked down.